Hey guys.
Are there any upgrades regarding cam choice, manifolds, throttlebodies
Induction ect...
Without spending 6g at jmm and just keeping up with stock ls1's

ive had no luck with forced induction as no one wants to know me unless I
epa test and emgineere the car that shuld cost the same price.
Im just after a bit more power

ive already done pacemakers and a 2.5inch stainless cat back
and a k&n filter to minimal gains.

Thanks
Stell

The stock intake is quite restrictive. With the exhaust already opened up, you will likely find some gains in the induction side.
- A bigger snorkel is a must. Upgrading to the AU or BA XR8 snorkel is cheap and effective and takes two minutes.
- To go another step bigger, an SS Inductions Big Mouth or the second, lower snorkel off an F6 will do the trick.
- upgrading to the BA induction tube and a custom 3" airbox exit is also cheap and quite straightforward. Here's the tech doc on it:
fordmods-technical-documents-diy-f38/convert-au-to-low-restriction-ba-induction-tube-part-1-t100117.html
- Once all your other mods are done, you can get a decent gain by doing a TI Performance J3 chip (about $200) with a desktop "custom tune". If you are happy to run only 98 octane, the chip can be set up to take full advantage of the extra octane. Doing a proper dyno tune on the J3 chip will get even more out of it.

You will get a noticeable improvement in performance with the above, and you haven't even opened up the engine. I don't know what cams are available. Autolite 985 projected-tip spark plugs are supposed to be worth 3-4kw, but who really knows. I hear good things about under-drive pulleys for liberating horsepower (Blue Power?). I have seen back-to-back dyno plots of the stock throttle body and one 5mm bigger, and the two curves were identical to 5,000 rpm, so probably not worth the coin for the few extra kw at the very top end.

FWIW

Is it manual or auto? If its auto go with 3.9's or 4.11's, if its manual id stick with the 3.45's. You could get rid of the VCT and get a decent cam with a tune. That will pick up a fair amount of power also.

Because you already have extractors and an exhaust id do the intake and a cam, then a tune, if its auto do the diff gears

If you have an automatic, get the factory torque convertor hi-stalled. It's cheap-ish (if it's out of the car). And it works like a charm. My EF XR6 has the same 3.45 gears as your AU, and it launches superbly with a 2900rpm stall. And fuel economy is hardly affected in town, and not at all on the highway.

Hey guys.
Just a quick rundown
its an au2xr6. koni adj shocks. pedders low springs. ba gt wheels. cross drilled and slotted brakes. slotted rear
its also black and manual with a stronger lsd and exedy clutch.
So it looks quick but not that quick lol.
How can i disable the vct to use a aftermarket cam?
also where can i get a chip like that?

www.tiperformance.com.au

I believe you can get cams to suit without having to disable the vct.

On a track or down a quarter won't make much difference, but in every day driving where you aren't constantly in the mid-upper rpm would be beneficial.

to ditch the vct you can remove the vct cam and cam gear and fit a non vct au cam and gear.
but if you do remove the vct stuff, you will also need to unplug the wires to the vct solinoid or block off the oil feed to the vct solinoid..otherwise you will loose all oil pressure

or feed it to a gt3582 then back into the sump.....