hey im want to build my ef xr6 into a street/drag car. kinda new to this whole mod scene so dnt know to much about performance upgrades only abit. so just want some dos and donts to building a street/drag xr6?? like best most i would need etc etc.. any help would be great!!

1) money and lots of it
2) work out what times you want to run, to determine how much hp you need to run them with the weight of your car, then determine what you need to do to acheive that amount of hp.
3) its not just the motor that makes you go fast, the rest of the driveline needs to be setup correctly, and so does the suspension

first tip is to go out and get a girlfriend like paris hilton. or the kardashians for that matter. then when you have a sugar momma start wrighting big cheques..

Weight reduction is free.
Second hand slicks are cheap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFGu4RijlZM <<< watch these vids, its an entry in the 13s for $1300 competition over at pf.

Sounds like fun! The EF XR6 would be a good base as it already has 3.45:1 limited slip diff, broadband manifold, and modified head with big exhaust valves.

If you want to run in dial-your-own bracket racing, consistency is the key, so your auto is good, but you'll need a high stall convertor or have your existing convertor high stalled. If you're going for lowest possible ET, you will probably need to swap to a strong manual box.

After that, it's all about how much you want to spend. If your budget stretches to the better part of $10k, you could get a very quick boosted EF. Otherwise, you're stuck with naturally aspirated, and could do the normal power mods:
- cold air induction
- headers and exhaust
- hot cam and vernier gear (but may need a chip)
- skim the head for more compression
- port and polish the head
- underdrive pulley
- good plugs and leads
- buy a chip and get it dyno-tuned

Nitrous can give you impressive dragstrip times without affecting your daily drive, and at a reasonable cost. But you will still want to have at least headers and low restriction induction.

Check this out for some modification ideas and what you can get from them:
http://www.bpracing.com.au/Ford-ESeries.html

Have fun.

thanks efxr6wagon, that info was a great help. i wanna try and stick with an auto but might have to change to manual. any tips on the best type of cam? and can i ask wat does a underdrive pulley do?? i think im guna stick with N/A at the moment gunna try and get the most power out of it wile being N/A. i was thinking a mini spool diff yes?? no?? ive heard they can cause probs?? any other thing i coud do like new pistons?? bigger injectors?? sorry bout all the Qs just wanna know wat im doing b4 i start.

thanks in advance for any more help.

Wade cams seem to be very popular in this forum, and they have a good selection, but there are a number of good suppliers. I think there's a sticky on it in Fordmods. A regrind will be cheaper than a billet cam. If you are aiming for lowest ET, you would go as hot as you can handle and still put up with it as a road car. But I'm told you can only go about one step beyond the XR6 cam before the computer stops handling it, so you will need at least a chip and tune. A hot cam will also require stronger valve springs. You will want to develop the car as a package, ie all the bits working together. You won't get full benefit from the cam if you're using the factory exhaust manifold or intake snorkel, for instance.

The underdrive pulley just slows down all the accessories (A/C, power steering, alternator, water pump), so they consume less power, leaving more to propel the car. I hear there are no adverse effects.

The 3.45:1 limited slip diff is reasonably stout, so shouldn't need to be upgraded with an N/A engine. As long as it's still working fine (not single spinning), just replace the fluid with Redline 75W140 NS Gear Oil. This will keep your limited slip tight, but may produce some chatter on the road. You can tune this out by adding Redline Friction Modifier 5mls at a time until the chatter goes away. I would have thought a mini spool would be a pain on the street, as it won't want to go around corners, and will be very hard on tyres.

Factory pistons seem to work fine in street/strip N/A applications. A new set of standard pistons is cheap insurance if the bottom end is coming apart anyway. If you are going to get the engine revving past 6500rpm, forged pistons would probably be a good idea. If you are just looking for higher compression, you can usually get as much as you want simply by skimming the head and using the thinner AU multi-layer steel (MLS) head gasket. I've taken 15 thou off mine, but have heard of others going as much as 45 thou, which would have to be over 11:1 compression. WARNING: If you opt for a serious head shave AND a radical cam grind, you need to check your valve-to-piston clearance. Otherwise, you could end up with an expensive pile of broken pieces. To gain clearance, you may need aftermarket pistons with valve reliefs, or you may be able to get the factory pistons fly-cut/notched.

The XR6 already has a high-pressure fuel regulator, so the factory injectors (if clean) can handle quite a bit of modding. From the factory the EF XR6 comfortably handles 5800rpm at about 11:1 AFR. So, with the engine tuned to a leaner and more powerful 13:1 AFR, you should have a fair bit of headroom. With a hot cam, higher revs, and more airflow in an out, at some point the injectors will no longer cut it. I'm sure some of the other contributors can give you a better feel for at what point there is benefit in going to bigger injectors.

And if it's going to be drag weapon, you will probably want to go to 3.9 or 4.1 gears - and sticky tyres.

Do yourself a favour and protect your investment with quality synthetic oils - cheap insurance. I use Royal Purple, but there a number of good ones out there. Take a look at this article - the differences are very real:
http://www.royalpurple.com.au/article_i ... lement.php

Cheers.

This is all good advice I was wondering something with the underdrive pulleys... I have an EL 6cyl 4L and was wondering what underdriven pulleys I could use? Where do you get them from?

you would want lower gears than 3.45 and mini spools can be an a**hole to drive as a daily as the wheels are locked all the time, throw some 3.7,3.9 or 4.11 diff gears in an auto to get it moving as the first gear in these btr autos are too long, shift kits are good to get the gears changing lightning quick

also those 13s for 1300 cars are good for a laugh and some ideas, i went onto the forum and watched that red vn thread, they chopped s**t out of it stuck a drain pipe on it and a s**t load of nos lol, also put a big a*** "piggy back computer" in it lol, they took weight reduction to a whole new level, they gutted the insides of the bonnet and boot lid, doors, no dash etc,