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| ghia v8 |
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ive got an el xr6 and notice that the temp needle bearly reaches the first outline on the normal box. is this a thermostat prob?
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| Happy |
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ghia v8 wrote: ive got an el xr6 and notice that the temp needle bearly reaches the first outline on the normal box. is this a thermostat prob?
mine hardly gets warm on some cooler days, I'd be more concerned if your gauge was heading in the opposite direction.
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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| twr7cx |
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Happy wrote: mine hardly gets warm on some cooler days, I'd be more concerned if your gauge was heading in the opposite direction.
I wouldn't think that'd it be a good thing for your car to be running too cold either. I remember when I had to drive 30km's to get a new thermostate - i drove without one, car drove awfully. I find that on L.p.g. there's a huge difference when it's cold to when it's normal. You fan wiring might be buggered and there running more often than needed. Your thermostate might be bugger (or you might have the wrong temperature rated one). The thermostates are cheap to replace, so I'd start with that. |
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| 1 SLY 97EL |
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If it is running too cold you will end up using more fuel as well. Temp gauge needle should sit on the "A"or slightly over it for optimum engine running Temp. Hot or Cold weather too.
_________________ " In life their is never an Obligation just an Opportunity to..Own an awesome 1970 Ford Mach 1 Mustang! " |
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| madmax |
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As said check your thermostat, it might be buggered, the wrong temp range, or someone may have drilled holes in it.
Although it is far worst to have a high temp, a car running cold will cause the ECU to run in "warmup" constantly, thus using more fuel. How is the heater on a cold morning? if the heater is ok then it may be the engine coolant temperature sensor, located in the lower half of the thermostat housing that may be the fault.
_________________
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| oppy |
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i find mines always just on the line as well or slightly above it, I might get this checked too!
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| GTBob |
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Use only GENUINE FORD Thermostats, the may cost a little more BUT you get at least twice the life and they very seldom F*** up
 
_________________ Rotten Old Revhead!!! XW GTHO + EF ex cop car (exractors 2.5 cat back zorst !6" Simmons K&N +airbox mods Lowered with Bilstein shocks+Whiteline Bars NEXT THING Swap HO for GTP or Ferrari! |
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| Koos Louw |
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GTBob wrote: Use only GENUINE FORD Thermostats, the may cost a little more BUT you get at least twice the life and they very seldom F*** up
The head on my falcon XR6 cracked, possibly due to some idiot removing the termostat. Cracks developed between cylinders 2,3and 4. The temp was always very low, water then started to disappear and later water in number 4 piston. See 'Head Cracked!" for more info. After three weeks I will get the job completed tommorrow.
_________________ V8 and 6 cylinder performance enthusiast in South Africa. |
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| bowsaw |
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Ever since i had my car, it only sits near the bottom line, with low air temp, according to the climate control, it is sitting around 85-90, which is fine i reckon.
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| zeus |
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i had the same problem with my ef fairmont ghia. turned out to ge the thermostate. i drove for ages like it and as far as i know it didnt do any damage. its cheap as to fix and you can do it yourself aswell.
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| 1 SLY 97EL |
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zeus wrote: i had the same problem with my ef fairmont ghia. turned out to ge the thermostate. i drove for ages like it and as far as i know it didnt do any damage. its cheap as to fix and you can do it yourself aswell.
I had the same thing with my Thermostat a couple of years ago. I then took it to a Rad place and then they flushed the Rad out etc and replaced the Thermostat. I then drove my EL the next day and I immediately noticed the Temp gauge was quick to get to and now was constantly sitting on the "A," where as previously she would only sit on the line. I then took it to the Rad place fearing that they had stuffed up. To which I was informed by the Rad mechanic that the needle sitting on the "A" is actually the Optimum operating Temp for EF's & EL's and mine had been running too Cold all this time.
_________________ " In life their is never an Obligation just an Opportunity to..Own an awesome 1970 Ford Mach 1 Mustang! " |
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| Lukieman |
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I have some thoughts on this area also... (bear with me)
On my EA the temp used to sit in the mid-low range and would never move over that range. After I replaced the Thermostat (for what reason I forget now) it will eventually warm up and the needle will rise to the RED danger zone and sit there for maybe half a minute before, very quickly dropping down to low area. The fact that the needle can sometimes sit in the redzone scares the crap outta me.... So I figured, as the Temp. generally drops quickly when the car is dropping from high rpm (2,500) maybe my pump is stuffed??? Not pumping the cooled fluid fast enough through the engine. One other thing I cant figure out, I removed the TEMP. sensor plug while running... some purge valve opens up, the engine revs but the temp. needle doesn't change... WTF?!?!?! ALSO!!! My car is loosing around 3 liters of water every couple of days, but there is no apparent leak. A very small dripping is coming from a rear hose just behind the fuel regulator. But it only drips, and not very much. Then after driving, I stopped to check my water level as the temp. guage was sitting in the higher area, as soon as I released the cap the water bubbled quite rapidly out of the reserve tank. Now, does this normally happen, or does it sound like I got a minor blown head gasket!?!??!? Please help!
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
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| GTBob |
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Sounds like your thermostat is sticking and only starts to open when it really gets too hot is it the correct FORD thermostat or just an aftermarket one as we have had a lot of problems with aftermarket thermostats
 
_________________ Rotten Old Revhead!!! XW GTHO + EF ex cop car (exractors 2.5 cat back zorst !6" Simmons K&N +airbox mods Lowered with Bilstein shocks+Whiteline Bars NEXT THING Swap HO for GTP or Ferrari! |
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| madmax |
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Lukieman wrote: A very small dripping is coming from a rear hose just behind the fuel regulator. But it only drips, and not very much.
Then after driving, I stopped to check my water level as the temp. guage was sitting in the higher area, as soon as I released the cap the water bubbled quite rapidly out of the reserve tank. Now, does this normally happen, or does it sound like I got a minor blown head gasket!?!??!? Please help! The small dripping sounds like its coming out of the air conditioning drain hose, this is normal no problem there. If you have blown a head gasket you may be getting combustion gases into the coolant system this will overpressurize the system and force coolant out the overflow. This might be where you water is going. One way to find out is to position a small drink bottle so the overflow runs into it, then check it after a couple of days and see if any coolant is in it. You can also get your coolant tested to see if it has combustion gases in it. It is only a dip test very simple and shouldn't cost much.
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| 4.9 EF Futura |
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On a perfectly healthy engine, if you remove the cap from the header tank just after driving it, expect to take a coolant shower....
I wouldnt think water pump... these things tend to "pump" or "not pump".. i.e. they dont gradually get worse.. unless there is some serious corrosion going on in there. Seems like they only $35 to replace for you 6cyl guys.. Could be thermostat.... unfortunately they can be s**t right out of the box. 3L of water every couple of days is quite scary. Even more so if you are not leaving puddles of coolant everywhere. Any signs of coolant-in-oil (i.e. under oil filler cap?)... already a couple of bad signs (i.e. too hot, coolant going missing and not leaking onto ground)... I second the vote to test coolant for combustion gasses.
_________________ I promise..... I will never die. |
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