Lack of fuel pressure will make it run like that.

nar the engine i got was out of a wrecked ute off ebay.. so no warranties..

That would make water come out my exhaust?

how much water??? are you sure its not just condensation???

its spits a bit of spots on the ground when its running, and you can see it laying at the end of the exhaust, you can whipe it with your finger and it covers your finger tip.. also i noticed when it was struggling to start i saw a little bit of smoke coming from the engine, i couldnt see where from tho, could only see it when i was looking at it from the drivers door through the gap in the bonnet to the engine

i get quite alot of water out of my exhaust, but it did it even on my previous engine which had the head gasket done twice in only a few months (not cause it had blown).
but im running straight gas.

do a compression test - remember to disconnect theinjectors first
if the you have low compression on one cylinder, pull that plug out and see if it is any cleaner than the others.

it still doesnt sound liek you have checked for vacuum leaks.
the car will only run ritch or irratic for a few reasons, vacuum leak, f**k TPS, f**k ECU or f**k oxygen sensor.

if your map sensor line is cracked or not connected the car will idle like s**t, run rich and most likely stall when you try to drive.

if you have a vacuum leak anywhere else, it will have a very similar effect but not quite to that extent.

you really need to investigate things a bit more.

hi
speaking of vacuum leaks,
im sure i have some issues there. my eb wont idle and if it does its at like 2k revs hunting,
the car runs smooth and powerfull all the time but wont idle and sometimes hunts.
does any1 have a simple drawing or something of el vacuume lines/bbm ertc set up...

as i have put a el xr6 and 5 speed into my car the other week and im sure vacuum is my best bet.

big job doing the swap... but well worth it, even with idle issues lol

cheers chris

It'll be easier to check the vacuum level first before hunting for a problem that may not exist.
It's best to have no vac leaks but I'd identify the root cause of the idle first..

Worth buying a vac gauge, maybe $30 for a good one.
Mine reads -100kpa to +70kpa with four different scales (mercury, water, psi, kpa)
The positive pressure scale is ok for checking mechanical fuel pumps but not EFI ones.. I've got a nice liquid filled job I put pressure fittings on for that job. Goes on to the fuel pump outlet and passes through to the rail feed.

Anyhow, manifold vac testing..
With a warm engine, try to get the idle as low as possible to 800rpm. Should read 450-470mm.

If you can't get the idle low, try blocking off the PCV.
Can also disconnect and plug the manifold side of the plastic lines that go thru the firewall near the engine wiring loom (passenger side).
Can't recall if the vacuum canister in your model is under the grille between the bonnet and windscreen or if it's behind driver door hinges (behind the guard).
Check for a (black?) plastic vac line running into the firewall somewhere.
Also plug the brake booster feed, that's another spot. Apart from that there's not much else besides the MAP sensor.