|
| SpuDTE |
|
|||
|
Hey guys,
is there any way on figuring out (roughly) how long your battery will be able to start your car, if your stereo is turned on and boomin whilst the car is off? u know, when yer waitin to pick someone up, dont wanna wast fuel but want some tunes? Ive got a head deck (duh) and a single amp, can i use these fuse ratings to somehow calculate a rough number? Thanks
_________________ Formerly SpuDEF |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| joolz |
|
|||
|
from memory d**k smith or jaycar had kits that are "battery savers" basically they sensed when battery was getting low and either sounded an alarm or you have it via a relay to switch off acc in the car.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| raiki |
|
|||
|
You could measure your average current with the stereo running then look at the AHr rating of the battery.
For example a 50AHr battery can supply 50A for 1 hour, or 20A for 2.5 hours. etc. This will leave it dead flat. Then you need to know how much power it takes to start your motor, a big unknown. I'd say if you left 0.5 the AHr rating you'd be fine. You need lots of measurments and test. However for a lead acid battery I think the AHr quoted is more an art form than true science.
_________________ Adrian
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| data_mine |
|
|||
|
yeah get a battery saver cutout switch, and if you expect to be waiting a long time, get a second battery as well.
I've got a cutout (set to 11v) ready to install. I figure protecting the battery to 11v is plenty (edumactedguess) to get teh car going again, as I have had trouble with voltage down around 10v.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| bowsaw |
|
|||
|
In my car, you can turn the stereo on, without keys, and it goes for an hour, so one presumes that Ford, set that time limit for a reason.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| joolz |
|
|||
|
dont car batteries get measured in CCA (cranking amps) deep cycle batteries i know are measure in ah (amp hours)
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| SpuDTE |
|
|||
|
Thats the problem. In my old car i had the stereo goin, car turned off for about hour and a half. Then tested the battery, was fine at bout 12.5v, all lights worked perfect, went to start and wouldnt even turn over once. the important thing is the amperage, not necessarily the voltage. a dse cut out thing cant do much in this situation dont think
_________________ Formerly SpuDEF |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| data_mine |
|
|||
|
There's many measures of batterys.
weight height/width/depth nominal voltage per cell voltage CCA (cold cranking amps) Amp/hours internal resistance price Capacity is amp hours. surge supply current is CCA. internal resistance (ohms) tells two things, how fast it'll dischange itself, and also maximum current draw. The rest are easy enough to figure out.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| justfordima |
|
|||
|
I agree with the second battery statement... if you know you sit around alot listening to music, then get a second battery... if you wanna just know.. tehn get a volt and amp guage... then you know how much voltage and amperage is left in your battery.. and after trial and error, you'll find out what you need to start your car... Ive had my car start from 10V before... hardly but it started... so thats a guide. But Im not sure on amperage.
Cheers
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 17 guests |
