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| Brad92XR6 |
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hey guys, just wondering, if i were to wire up 2 4ohm subs, that will present a 2ohm load to the amp right? the amp is a monoblock and does 250wrms at 4ohm or 500wrms at 2 ohm, even if i wire up these 2 subs. will it still only get a 250wrms each.. cheers
_________________ Ford EBII XR6 1992
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| timmay_73 |
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If they're wired in paralell, it will present a 2 ohm load, which, will give 250wrms to each sub (500wrms total)
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| parrotscaraudio |
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{USERNAME} wrote: hey guys, just wondering, if i were to wire up 2 4ohm subs, that will present a 2ohm load to the amp right? the amp is a monoblock and does 250wrms at 4ohm or 500wrms at 2 ohm, even if i wire up these 2 subs. will it still only get a 250wrms each.. cheers The other answer is spot on Attachment: PARALLEL.jpg [ 7.95 KiB | Viewed 1320 times ] All amps rms output should match the rms of the speaker they will be driving or at least over by 25 % Example SUB 500 RMS @ 4 0hm = AMP 500 RMS 4 0hm 2 SUBS 500 RMS 4 0hm =1000 RMS @ 2 ohm = AMP 1000 RMS @ 2 ohm you need to make sure the subs are the same type and wattage MUST MATCH With SUBS you need to take into Account that your sub box can change the WATTAGE of you speaker as a sealed box with a sub 100w = 100w but the 100w sub in a ported box could need 200w depending on port size and box Litres Parrot 22 years in car audio instalation http://www.rlsnell.20m.com http://www.autowreck.com.au http://z3.invisionfree.com/APV/index.php? http://www.youtube.com/user/parrotscaraudio
_________________ Parrot Last edited by parrotscaraudio on Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:21 pm, edited 2 times in total. |
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| Big Kev |
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Yup as above and the higher the level of resistance you can supply the max level of power the better for the longetivity of your amp/woofers...
Eg: 1000w RMS at 4ohm will be safer for your gear than say 1000W RMS @ 0.5ohms. Increased resistance (ohms) does mean increased efficiency as more power can be delivered however also means increased heat the enemy of amplifiers. Same for the woofer as increased resistance at the amplifier means the less control over the woofers cone excursion. Which can become dangerous to your woofer or will effect the sound of the woofer - becomes sloppy resulting in notes not sounding as tight or punchy
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| parrotscaraudio |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Yup as above and the higher the level of resistance you can supply the max level of power the better for the longetivity of your amp/woofers... Eg: 1000w RMS at 4ohm will be safer for your gear than say 1000W RMS @ 0.5ohms. Increased resistance (ohms) does mean increased efficiency as more power can be delivered however also means increased heat the enemy of amplifiers. Same for the woofer as increased resistance at the amplifier means the less control over the woofers cone excursion. Which can become dangerous to your woofer or will effect the sound of the woofer - becomes sloppy resulting in notes not sounding as tight or punchy Great answer nice to see that some people know what they are talking about not like on yahoo answers |
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| OZBMX |
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{USERNAME} wrote: All amps rms output should match the rms of the speaker they will be driving or at least over by 25 % Example SUB 500 RMS @ 4 0hm = AMP 500 RMS 4 0hm 2 SUBS 500 RMS 4 0hm =1000 RMS @ 2 ohm = AMP 1000 RMS @ 2 ohm you need to make sure the subs are the same type and wattage MUST MATCH Hey don't mean to take it to off topic but i see you mention that, just when i went to autobarn jb etc. looking at amps for my speakers, they kept offering me amps with maybe 50x4 rms etc. Despite the speakers fronts bout 70rms or something and rears think about 120rms Is this not so true for the speakers as it is for the subs, or were they fare full of s**t saying it doesn't really need to be, and I'm guilty of still running them off the head unit, just a little unsure where I'm going with it now. 
_________________ Signature removed by moderator.signature must not exceed 120x500 pixles |
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| parrotscaraudio |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: All amps rms output should match the rms of the speaker they will be driving or at least over by 25 % Example SUB 500 RMS @ 4 0hm = AMP 500 RMS 4 0hm 2 SUBS 500 RMS 4 0hm =1000 RMS @ 2 ohm = AMP 1000 RMS @ 2 ohm you need to make sure the subs are the same type and wattage MUST MATCH Hey don't mean to take it to off topic but i see you mention that, just when i went to autobarn jb etc. looking at amps for my speakers, they kept offering me amps with maybe 50x4 rms etc. Despite the speakers fronts bout 70rms or something and rears think about 120rms Is this not so true for the speakers as it is for the subs, or were they fare full of s**t saying it doesn't really need to be, and I'm guilty of still running them off the head unit, just a little unsure where I'm going with it now. The shops will push to you stock that has not sold and tell you any old crap to make a sale then you go home blow up some thing just to find out there is no waranty on what you bought yes it DOES MATTER RMS is RMS it must match for best performance I refuse to tell s**t to customers just to make a sale. rather help you get the best for your Money There are alot of shops who speak porkies just to rip you off EVEN if your a MATE as One shop here in Victoria. JB is s**t Strathfield is a rip off Auto Bahn Just over priced |
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| skidder |
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Yep, any of the big chain stores suck. I won't go into any of the dodgey s**t mates have bought and been like "yeah and I got a huge discount too!" apart from my personal favourite when a guy at JB Hifi sold a 1000W max (but only 200rms @ 2ohms @ 14.4v) Boss amp to run a 12in alpine type x sub (which had been bought second hand) to one of my mates...I didn't know which one to slap for being so stupid.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| parrotscaraudio |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Yep, any of the big chain stores suck. I won't go into any of the dodgey s**t mates have bought and been like "yeah and I got a huge discount too!" apart from my personal favourite when a guy at JB Hifi sold a 1000W max (but only 200rms @ 2ohms @ 14.4v) Boss amp to run a 12in alpine type x sub (which had been bought second hand) to one of my mates...I didn't know which one to slap for being so stupid. HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHE IT HAPPENS TO MUCH |
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| parrotscaraudio |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Yep, any of the big chain stores suck. I won't go into any of the dodgey s**t mates have bought and been like "yeah and I got a huge discount too!" apart from my personal favourite when a guy at JB Hifi sold a 1000W max (but only 200rms @ 2ohms @ 14.4v) Boss amp to run a 12in alpine type x sub (which had been bought second hand) to one of my mates...I didn't know which one to slap for being so stupid. HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHE IT HAPPENS TO MUCH Strathfield BOSS and American BOSS are two totaly Diff Products. I was a Dealer of American Boss before Strathfield ripped of the Product Now they have given it a s**t name and American Boss Decided Many years ago not to let Strathfield Have the product so they pulled out of Australia and let Strathfield go as they Are GOING BROKE any way. |
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| skidder |
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Yep, was one of the "boss audio" jobbies...the thing died after like 6 months too, not surprising considering how high the gain was on it. Was lucky he didn't damage the sub while he was at it.
Off topic: I think I need to stay out of this forum area, I'm starting to get addicted and wanting to plan another install for my new car!!! arrggghhh
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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