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| One Drone |
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I'm a bit lost. Had my alarm installed by a pro but it wasn't done right so I'm trying to correct it.
My alarm has neg unlock and neg lock lines. Where do you splice each into?
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| EBGizmo |
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Just looked at the Max Ellery's schematic - it appears you need to give a momentary negative pulse to either the Yellow/Black or the Red/Yellow wire going to one of the front locks in order to lock/unlock.
Use a meter or a test light to confirm this. Look for a negative pulse on either of these lines while you are using your central locking button or original ford remote.
_________________ EF II Sedan
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| Feelin blue |
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depending on the model, wire the lock/unlock pulses to the central locking switch on the dash. this circuit only requires momentary switching. Doing it the other way is a bit tricky, to properly run the door actuators the pulse is actually timed by the bcm, so the alarm module must put out an extended pulse. between 2 and 3 seconds. This is because of the type of actuator it is. Some alarm modules have this feature and its adjustable, cheap and nastys dont.
_________________ Live by the Ford... Die by the Ford... |
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| mr_sperm1 |
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mines poked into the BEM....
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| camh1980 |
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I second that Mr Sperm.
My NF had a Hornet after-market system fitted. Unfortunately, the car (when I purchased it as a wreck), had no keypad to disable it. I removed the alarm piece by piece, first siren, then the flashing light (mounted in the fuse box door? Weird location). The bonnet latch, then fuses and finally the wiring, which was traced to the BEM, near the driver's left knee. Car started and ran fine until I sold it, so technically, I stole my own car LOL. 
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| One Drone |
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Both the lock and unlock from the alarm goes into the Y-BL. I was just wondering if it was meant to be that way. It works, but makes things complicated for getting the interior lights to work. Is it possible to have the unlock on one wire (say Y-BL), and the lock on another (R-Y)?
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| EBGizmo |
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So they've wired it up so it cycles the locks instead of difinitively locking or unlocking? Thats a bit strange - if the alarm and doors go out of sync, the doors may be opposite to the alarms state. Are the two outputs actually joined electrically to the same wire?
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| Big Kev |
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I wouldnt be touching anything...take it back to em and tell me to fix at no charge what they f**k up...simple...
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| snap0964 |
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As mentioned, if you have no joy in getting them to correct it, hook up your two lines to the red/yellow and yellow/black lock/unlock lines (as mentioned by EbGizmo). Connect them as a temp connection and test. If they're the wrong way, switch connections, test and make them permanent.
Shouldn't need to test with a meter since the system already works on the central locking switch line, which is an earth seeking anyway. As mentioned, the technically correct way is to have them hooked up to separate lock/unlock lines. All E series falcons run -ve trigger lock/unlock.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| One Drone |
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Did as you said snap and it still didn't work. R-Y doesn't respond at all for some reason. Y-B does.
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| snap0964 |
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One Drone wrote: Did as you said snap and it still didn't work. R-Y doesn't respond at all for some reason. Y-B does. The add on alarms that use a different keyfob should work - but as you know they have separate lock/unlock buttons. They do run separate relays for lock/unlock, and all they do is provide an earth for the actuators to cycle.
Also not using the smartlock keyfob means the interior light won't go on/off either. Does yours use the smartlock keyfob ?? If so, I'd say Feelin Blue's suggestion would be your best bet - although bearing in mind EBgizmo's comment about getting out of sync is possible also. Sorry about the rehash - need more info on your alarm to make a better judgement.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| One Drone |
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Already hate alarms lol. It's not an upgrade one and it has it's own keyfobs. The reason I'm playing with it all is because the interior lights didn't work when i locked and unlocked the car.
The locks will go out of sync with both the lock and unlock on the same line. It only does that if I try to lock and unlock quickly, which doesn't bother me for now. I have got the interior lights to light up now when I lock but now I am trying to get them to turn off when they lock. I intend on doing this by using a relay and having it hooked up to accessories line on the ignition barrel as well as the lock (negative) line from the alarm. The only thing I can't figure out now is which wire is the ignition (acc) wire to the BEM. I've found that Dark Blue - Yellow goes to 12v on accessories but I'm not sure if that is the right one. Can anyone confirm for me via manuals etc?
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| EBGizmo |
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Go to jaycar and get a SY4060 latching relay. Hook one coil up to lock, one to lock, and have the contacts light up the interior light. The current draw on these relays is very low, so you may have to use this to power another relay to do the current carrying of the actual dome light circuit.
This will make the interior light turn on and off as required, directly related to your remote request - the only problem is that the light will stay on till you lock the car. To get around this, you could connect a diode to the lock line on the SY4060, and add another signal to it triggered by, say, the ignition. Of course this will require yet another relay to turn this into a negative pulse, but 2 small relays will cost you less than $10 and work exactly how you want it to. Let me know if you need a schematic done up.
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| EBGizmo |
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Hell... heres one anyway
Each lock or unlock pulse from the alarm will activate one of the coils in the latching relay, SY-4060. Depending on which coil closes which contact, you may have to swap the "Dome light negative" wire with the terminal labelled "X" If you wire it up this way, when you turn on the ignition, it will pulse the top relay for about half a second, turning the dome light off. If you want a timed "off", you'll have to use some other timing circuit or other mechanism. Of course, the dome light will turn off after an hour anyway when the BEM removes positive from it. As well as the 2 relays, you'll need a few 1N4001 diodes, a 470uF 16V capacitor (note the polarity!), and a 2.4K resistor. Hope this helps.
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| snap0964 |
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One Drone wrote: The only thing I can't figure out now is which wire is the ignition (acc) wire to the BEM. I've found that Dark Blue - Yellow goes to 12v on accessories but I'm not sure if that is the right one. Can anyone confirm for me via manuals etc? Yes it's accessories power, check the EF/EL smartlock docos for a suitable ignition feed line.One Drone wrote: Did as you said snap and it still didn't work. R-Y doesn't respond at all for some reason. Y-B does. Possibly that line from the alarm is not triggering. The R-Y and Y-B lines on the car are always reverse polarity to each other, i.e. 12v & 0v, and they alternate, easy enough to check with a meter, can check the alarm line as well, look for a momentary earth when keyfob is pressed.
My solution with the light on my cars was to use the boot release button on the alarm keyfob - both my cars don't have boots (funnily enough ). The boot release on my alarms provide a momentary earth, so it was very easy to hook it up to one of the door courtesy light lines (black/blue). So I can turn the light on whenever, and it fades out 20 secs later.
You could do the same if you didn't need boot release by the alarm keyfob - just retain the dash button. Depends on your preference, but an option I suppose.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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