|
| DMac |
|
||
Age: 38 Posts: 1372 Joined: 7th Nov 2004 Ride: Lancer Coupe Location: Southeastern suburbs, Melbourne |
Hey guys, two months ago i installed an F545 v12 in my car. Now two weeks ago it starting turning itself off and coming up with a "CUR" signal on the screen. The "CUR" means current. In the book it say there is too much, but the car radio guy says there it can also mean there is not enough. Now my problem is that it only shuts down when i crank it up. I cannot understand how come it never did it before and does it now. i am really p****d off because i cant crank it up as much anymore without it turning off and me having to turn the HU off so the amp resets itself.
Any ideas what has happened to my electrical system to make it turn off. Cheers guys. |
||
| Top | |
||
| nicco |
|
|||
|
Mine did EXACTLY the same thing
there was two problems causing it: 1. Bad ground (which hurt it but wasnt the nail in the coffin) 2. My fuse holder (aeropro) is ever so slightly the wrong size and doesnt hold the fuse tightly enough. So the fuse rattled, sometimes it was passing current through, sometimes not. That would explain the not enough current signal. Solution: for now: a coil of solder in the end of the fuse holder. sits nice and snug now for down the track: will try and find a nice fuse holder one day. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| data_mine |
|
|||
|
Maybe it's heat related. Now being hotter than onths ago.
And I've had #2 like nicco above as well. It's been replaced, and I'm now upgrade all my wiring too (prob tomorrow).
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ElwoodBlues |
|
||
|
would a capacitor fix this problem?
_________________ EF Futura factory 5 spd
|
||
| Top | |
||
| data_mine |
|
|||
|
no
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| DMac |
|
||
Age: 38 Posts: 1372 Joined: 7th Nov 2004 Ride: Lancer Coupe Location: Southeastern suburbs, Melbourne |
i got a cap and no it cant be heat because i can make it happen in the first 10secs of being on. Thanks nicco for the info, well actually my fuse holder was an aeropro and had s**t contact. So i replaced it with one of those pro stinger type with a fuse that looks like a 's' at one end and 'u' at the other. Might have to check out whats happening with the ground cable, for ground i have the four gauge out of the amp going to a bolt onto the metal where one of the back shockers are. i have the paint sanded but i'll check it out. I would also need to check the extra cable i got going from the body to the battery.
Cheers and i'll get back to ya. |
||
| Top | |
||
| DMac |
|
||
Age: 38 Posts: 1372 Joined: 7th Nov 2004 Ride: Lancer Coupe Location: Southeastern suburbs, Melbourne |
do you reckon getting a dual battery setup would fix it. It wouldn't be hard for me to set one up but would it end my probs 100%
|
||
| Top | |
||
| rhysy_boi |
|
|||
|
without know the exact problem no. forst do the cheap stuff like change your ground, clean your contacts, check your fuse holder. it should easily get enouh current from one battery especially considering it is using the alternator once the cars on.
why waste money on a dual battery setup when i doubt it would fix the problem? Rhyso
_________________ BA XT, typhoon intake, K&N filter, XR 17" wheels, red/black brakes, Ford scuff plates |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| DMac |
|
||
Age: 38 Posts: 1372 Joined: 7th Nov 2004 Ride: Lancer Coupe Location: Southeastern suburbs, Melbourne |
checked all that and its all good.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 43 guests |
