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| Fairmont_03_5.4 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I cant see why you need to amp rears though, they go plenty loud off the head deck. If you've got a 4ch, bridge it, and then run the fronts from it, ~ twice the power! So you dont use the internal amplifier in the head unit. Makes the deck run hot as. I got my speaker running from my deck and it runs alot hotter than when i had the AMP's running the speakers in my last car. Heat is not good for PCB's - Printed Circuit Boards.
_________________ Chaos, Panic and Disorder. My work here is finally done. |
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| Stone |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I cant see why you need to amp rears though, they go plenty loud off the head deck. If you've got a 4ch, bridge it, and then run the fronts from it, ~ twice the power! So you dont use the internal amplifier in the head unit. Makes the deck run hot as. I got my speaker running from my deck and it runs alot hotter than when i had the AMP's running the speakers in my last car. Heat is not good for PCB's - Printed Circuit Boards. There's no need to worry about heat in a head unit... The laser in the CD mech will fail long before heat does anything to the electronics. [edit] Spelling Last edited by Stone on Thu Aug 12, 2010 4:04 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| One Drone |
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If you are using the head unit amps, it is going to get warmer than when you weren't so that's normal.
Electronics do have temperature tolerances and the cheaper the brand/model or components they use the more likely they are to fail because they have lower tolerances; no real surprise there. Your transistors and ICs don't like heat so a lot of boards will have fans to help. Capacitors (especially if they are electrolytic) have a liquid inside them that do dry up over time and they do that faster if in a hot environment.
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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| Stone |
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I repair car audio for a job... It's very rare that components fail in head unit, it's generally moving parts and the lasers that fail. Those things wear out far before components.
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| krisisdog |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I cant see why you need to amp rears though, they go plenty loud off the head deck. If you've got a 4ch, bridge it, and then run the fronts from it, ~ twice the power! So you dont use the internal amplifier in the head unit. Makes the deck run hot as. I got my speaker running from my deck and it runs alot hotter than when i had the AMP's running the speakers in my last car. Heat is not good for PCB's - Printed Circuit Boards. more lol's. Do you think they arent designed to do that or something? |
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| Steady ED |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I repair car audio for a job... It's very rare that components fail in head unit, it's generally moving parts and the lasers that fail. Those things wear out far before components. RCA earth tracks? 
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| Stone |
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Installer fail doesn't count
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| haggis |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I cant argue with what you said as its true, but you are missing the point.... which Stone summed up pretty well. I think you'll find most RMS values are in fact 20hz-20khz, which makes them comparable and usable data when researching and setting up a system. If you understood how music is recorded, and therefore designed to be listened to, you would realise how much sense it makes to draw the sound stage as far forward as you can in the car... Clearly you are no aware that listening to music is a subjective experience. You think because you like it one way, everyone else must too.
_________________ I can see through wooden doors. |
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| krisisdog |
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Now you're just being an argumentative prick for the sake of it
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| haggis |
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Don't assume the worst of me next time.
_________________ I can see through wooden doors. |
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| One Drone |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I repair car audio for a job... It's very rare that components fail in head unit, it's generally moving parts and the lasers that fail. Those things wear out far before components. Quite interesting. Mechanical parts are usually the first parts to fail such as motors, gears or rubbers. I guess in a head unit the components aren't subject to high power in comparison to amps or the like. I know lasers tend to fail especially if you often read different types of disc like cd and dvd etc as they use a different laser through the lens which eventually fogs up. Off topic but do you generally replace them? I would have thought it be cheaper to just buy a new later model head unit unless of course it was a high end model.
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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| Stone |
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Most pickup assemblies are only $20-40, so it is usually worthwhile replacing them.
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I cant see why you need to amp rears though, they go plenty loud off the head deck. If you've got a 4ch, bridge it, and then run the fronts from it, ~ twice the power! I guess I could, but my front speakers aren't uber powerful. They are getting the correct RMS power required before I blow it to bits. 3/4 gain for the front for no distortion at full volume on head unit and 1/2 gain on rears as to not over power fronts. Bass has it's own controller...if I want to be more fully sick, I boost the bass using the controller. If I had better front speakers which require more juice than what a single channel can give out, then yes I would bridge it to make the most out of it  .Having more power on tap than speakers require is actually a good thing. It gives you some headroom so that the dynamics in the music don't cause clipping (amplifier distortion) even when you're at high volumes. Your gain is set incorrectly... You say you have it set so that your head unit can get to full volume before distortion... Have a read of this: {DESCRIPTION} That's the guide I went by and from what I re-read...it's exactly what I did. HU volume at 100% without distortion from the speakers with the set gain. If I was to set the gain higher, my speakers will distort at 90-100%. Either way, I don't even play 100% anyways...more like 50% - 60% volume.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| Stone |
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Sorry mate. I thought that tutorial said to set the head unit at 80% and set the gains from there. That's the correct way to it it to allow for any quiet recordings you might come across.
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| krisisdog |
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That and to cover any distortion the unit may put out at full volume. I've found I cant tune my Clarion that way as it distorts the rear speakers (which are run off it) so I used the point they started distorting as the base.
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