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Beefing up security - Transit Tibbe Deadlocks to E series 

 

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 Post subject: Beefing up security - Transit Tibbe Deadlocks to E series
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 1:22 pm 
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I'm just wondering, since my work van has the tibbe deadlocks on it, has anyone tried putting these on their E-series? Not wanting to pull apart my work van to look at them, i'm wondering if they are considerably larger and if they will physically fit in the E's.

I think the surprise factor of breaking the glass on an EA-EF and not being able to immediately open the door from the inside as expected, might deter someone from stealing my stereo system etc. How many thieves would be willing to hang around if they had to crawl in and out of a car window?

I've already done my bonnet in this manner, now its time for the doors and boot.

 

 

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Bonnet Deadlock 1x.JPG
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Bonnet Deadlock 2x.JPG
Bonnet Deadlock 2x.JPG [ 139.17 KiB | Viewed 222 times ]
Bonnet Deadlock 3x.JPG
Bonnet Deadlock 3x.JPG [ 134.4 KiB | Viewed 181 times ]

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:15 pm 
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um hate to tell you, but smash window, pull door handle, all doors unlock.

actually if you know what your doing you dont need to smash the window, these cars are easy a piss to get into, best defence is a sharp nail on your seat.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:24 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
um hate to tell you, but smash window, pull door handle, all doors unlock.


he's talking about dead locks like on vt commodores and stuff. on your cc pad if your press the lock button once the doors lock but you can still open them from the inside BUT if your press the lock button once again the doors DEAD LOCK and cant be open from either outside or in. allot of convertibles and ritsy cars have this feature too

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:25 pm 
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Maybe you misunderstood my post - I know this! - this is exactly what I want to upgrade! I don't know if later falcons have it yet, but my work transit has deadlocks. Press the remote twice, and the doors can not be unlocked from the inside (ala holden)

I want my falcon to have the same system, and will be looking into an easy way to modify the locks to support this. It will be a mechanical mod, so i'll need a wrecker doorlock to have a play with.

I made my bonnet lock this way by extending the section where the cable connects to, and adding a lever that inhibits the sliding travel. The lever is operated by a central locking actuator, and deadlocks with the doors by remote only (before anyone thinks that the bonnet can be unlocked if the doors are)

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:26 pm 
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thanks nannas_ed - beat me by 20 secs :P

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:31 pm 
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The back doors already support this feature for the kiddy lock - it will just be a matter of connecting an actuator to those ones. If the fronts can be easily swapped for the rears, this will be a very easy mod indeed.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:43 am 
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All Fords in the UK since..ohh...mid nineties have had this feature....quite a good idea...
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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:32 pm 
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I recall waaaay back in Fordmods Mk1, someone was trying to convert the doorlocks in 'E' series Falcons to utilise Commodore locks, but i dont think the documentation saw the light of day....Fordmods conspiracy? :D
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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:47 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
I recall waaaay back in Fordmods Mk1, someone was trying to convert the doorlocks in 'E' series Falcons to utilise Commodore locks, but i dont think the documentation saw the light of day....Fordmods conspiracy? :D


Well Matti (AKA Xyphoid, our FM creator) was the first to mention this documention which never saw the light of day 8-)

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:59 pm 
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ah now i know what your on about.

would be a good idea.

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:10 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
I made my bonnet lock this way by extending the section where the cable connects to, and adding a lever that inhibits the sliding travel. The lever is operated by a central locking actuator, and deadlocks with the doors by remote only (before anyone thinks that the bonnet can be unlocked if the doors are)


good idea

are u using the std smartlock/bem and fob to actuate this mechanism or do u have an aftermarket system...

could u explain the system a little better, i cant see the actuator in any of the photos..

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:49 pm 
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Its not in the photos, but it sits horizontally on the passenger side. The bonnet lock wasn't a simple mod, It took a weekend to design it, and weld up and cut the custom parts to the original lock. It hangs just over the top of the airbag sensor (plenty of room), and the actuator is opposite it. I'll take more photos when I start doing the locks, which I should be getting this arvo.

I have an aftermarket alarm, and that is running a standard door lock actuator with two wires - theres no reason why the factory locks couldn't power this tho - you could just use two SPDT relays to make a negative triggered power reverse circuit. (whipped up in cad for you)

 

 

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Bonnet Lock Actuator Circuit.jpg
Bonnet Lock Actuator Circuit.jpg [ 16.48 KiB | Viewed 210 times ]

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:58 pm 
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of course, if you use the standard central, when you open the doors, the bonnet will also uinlock - you really need a system separate from the factory BEM to do this securely.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 12:25 pm 
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Got my 4 locks from nlbxr6 last night - thanks mate :)

Have been staring at them for some time now, and by their design, its pretty much impossible to stop the inside latch from unlocking the door without introducing either a disconnector to the rod, or inhibiting its travel entirely. Both options will require adding a mechanical setup between the lock and the handle. I really don't think many people have access to a welder etc to fabricate this. There was one idea that I was keen on, and that was disconnecting the indoor handle entirely and hooking it up to the exterior actuator. A linkage could be made, but the problem with that is that the outside handle would lift up when the indoor was pulled - it would look a bit stupid :) Although it would provide for perfect deadlocking.

I'm still pondering at making a simple linkage to disconnect the indoor rod, as inhibiting its travel would temp people to keep forcing it in order to try and open the door.

Snap0964: the front and rears are quite similar in operation, except for a few differences. The rear locks have a bell crank to lower the pivot point of the actuator arm. The front lock has an extra lever and cam to stop the button from being pushed down when the door is not completely locked.

The rear doors also have the child lock lever, which I was hoping to connect to. The problem I can see is that the locating mechanism for this lever is going to be prone to wear, as it is just a dimple rubbing over a notch to keep it in one position or another, instead of a spring. If the locks were to be cycled all day everyday, this wouldn't last long, and I don't like the idea of being trapped in a car due to mechanical failure. (Worse if you have electric windows)



At the moment, I see two ways of doing this:-

1) Connect both handles to the external release lever, but design another bell crank to separate their movement so they don't operate each other. Adding extra actuators will then be unnecessary, and it will act like the old holdens, where you couldn't get out if the button was down.

2) Make a special disconnector or inhibitor for the indoor handles, and find a place to put it. This will require extra actuators and a lot more stuffing around - as well as a welder, lots of grinding and perfecting etc - i don't think many people will want to do this. I was hoping this could be a project where people could buy a piece of metal, drill some holes in certain locations, and voila! But it may get as complicated as my bonnet :(

Still pondering tho, and I have a whole week off work to do so!

(suggestions welcome!)

 

 

Attachments:
Locks_1.jpg
Locks_1.jpg [ 132.19 KiB | Viewed 183 times ]
Locks_2.jpg
Locks_2.jpg [ 127.6 KiB | Viewed 176 times ]
Locks_3.jpg
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Lock_front.jpg
Lock_front.jpg [ 138.49 KiB | Viewed 199 times ]
Lock_Rear.jpg
Lock_Rear.jpg [ 138.33 KiB | Viewed 191 times ]

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 4:02 pm 
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Have worked out a way to get the front doors to lock as required. The rod that goes to the outer door handle can be cut in half, and get a metal steeve placed around it so that the rod can slide in and out of it. This will allow the handle to push down on the rod when opened from outside.

I'll connect a bike or bonnet cable etc to the inner handle, and that can pull on the outer door linkage. When pulled, only the lower portion of the outer rod will move down, as it is allowed to slide out of the sleeve.

Pics available once I have made a prototype, but it will be very easy to do.

Only the rear doors are posing a problem now, because their actuator rod is too short to do the same thing with.

 

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