2 x 10's with my 2 x IDMAX12's.

A lot more than dampening factor, although that’s part of it.

- Car resonant frequency
- Box type and tuning
- Amplifier specs
- EQ'ing
- Sub-bass integration with midbass and front stage
- And then all of the actual sub characteristics
- Attack & Decay
- Low frequency extension
- Transient response
- Spectral Balance
- Accuracy
- Etc……..

$20 on Pyroay

I'll eat my old steering wheel if pyroay Loses...... (too bad I just sold it)

I'll put up my MOMO wheel for the eating if you like. I'm pretty confident it willr remain untuched.....



Seriously, 10's and 12's are both good sizes for subs and with the right sized and set-up front stage you can get to blend in well and sound very tight.

A few things that can cause a 12 (or a 10) to not sound as tight and punchy as you think it should.

- Box Type (sealed are almost always tighter than ported while AP membrane are the best but that comes at the expense of output, they are also difficult to build.
- Midbass size up front, even a 10 will sound average if you’re running 4" up front as there is no midbass integration
- Underpowered amplifier (not enough headroom for transient bass notes
- Voltage drop problems limed to incorrect cable size etc…. resulting in voltage drop
- Poor earth connections
- Quality of subs. Subs are speakers after all so there is certainly different quality, some play louder some play clearer with more even frequency response some very good ones do both (of course usually they are more expensive)

+ other problems.




The point I guess is with a properly designed enclosure and a good quality 12â€￾ sub you should be able to get very good tight response + higher power handling + better low frequency extension than a 10â€￾. I would choose a 10â€￾ if I was running 5 ¼â€￾ front stage splits though….