hey all, picking up a set of splits tomorrow that i've already wired up an amp for, was just wondering how I access the loom so I can run the speaker from the cabin to the inside of door, also some crossover location idea's would be great.

haha you're in for some fun buddy
pull the kick panels off and you should see some of the loom running into a grommit that runs into the door - its a PITA to run the wires.
as for the crossover - why not just double-sided tape it inside the door - i'm gathering you're mounting the tweeters where the mirror pannel is?

haha, i had a feeling it wasn't going to be fun, cheers for that though, and yeah, the tweeters are going there.

when I did mine i went took a sligtly easier way - punch a hole thru both the gromets so you dont have to try get it up thru the rubber s**t - and just tape it up between the doors

I run my wires through stock wiring. First, pull the kick panel off and pull the grommet off, spray some WD40 into the grommet, feed a wire through the cabin side and through the grommet with speaker wires attached. Pull the wire through and speaker wires should come with it...and having sprayed WD40 it shouldn't be as hard to pull through.

Biggest pain is getting the wire through from the cabin side.

Cross over can be mounted anywhere really. You can mounted behind the door skin using double sided tape, or on the door frame itself or if you want it to be seen, mount it on the outside of the door skin or even mounting it under the seats and then running the speaker cables to the door (you'd need to run more wires though, for tweeter and woofer).

+1. It can be a bit of a b**ch to do as I found trying to run 2x pairs of some 16gauge wires with thick insulation through those grommets, but it's do-able.

What splits are you getting, teeroy? Depending on the physical size of the crossover, you could also mount them in the map pockets. When I had my Response Precision splits, I mounted the crossovers in the maps, just drilled a hole at the bottom of the map pockets and ran the wires for the x-over input, woofer and tweeter through it. Used 2 screws to secure it to the door trim and it was all good. Might not be everyone's cup of tea with it in sight, but it worked for me.



Another option which I considered was somehow mounting them above the headunit, just below where the centre air vents on the dash sit.

The crossovers in my old car were just mounted behind the stereo surround under the headdeck. It was just a single din unit but.

if you do that though you have to run two sets of speaker wires into the doors

unfortunately i'm still waiting as my mate hasn't had a chance to get to me with the speakers due to our jobs so ill be waiting, hopefully not much longer, they're are a pioneer set, bought brand new in december, not sure which though, worth $200ish.
i think i could work with the crossover in the door card style, looks sorta cool, who needs door pockets anyway.

i dont see the point of showing them off - not like they are attractive

Easier to tune...assuming the crossovers have db level switches. Also get to tune the audio with all door skins on...which can make a bit of a difference in audio considering bare metal isn't the best sound deadener. In saying that, I prefer to hide it...can use the map pockets, but try and hide it a by making a cover for it or something.

Well this is my "OPINION".....

I found it quite easy to run the wires through the grommet using a coathanger (metal) and sticky taping the wires to it then pull the coathanger through, also makes it easier to get the wires into the hole where the grommet goes.

Crossover mounting should never be inside the door trim because of moisture, the moisture from inside the door can Rust the inside of the crossovers and cause them to fail. even speaker terminals should be covered in heat shrink or something along the same lines to "help" prevent rusting.

And be sure to install the speakers with your windows down to make sure they fit, you don't want to install them and then you can't put your windows down or worse damage the speakers from the wires getting caught.

And a better place for crossovers is either under the dash, under the seat or behind the kick panels, and with some crossovers the terminals where the speaker wires go to is not covered it is a good idea to cover the terminals with something to prevent shorting.

Have a look through here for some pics and good info

http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/fhrxstudios/photogallery_int.asp

Hope this helps.

...uhhh...you do realise doors have drainage holes right? or else you will have a nice puddle of water in your doors. Also car manufacturers wouldn't put electrical components in the doors if there was corrosion issues due to moisture build up. My car is 15 years old and it hasn't got any corrosion issues on the electrical components and nor do the speakers. I mean good in theory for prevention, but I don't think it'll be of any issue.

True, you do make a good point but my EF fairmont And my AU falcon both had rust on the factory speakers due to the drainage holes getting blocked, so if the drainage holes get blocked it can cause a moisture problem. i would hate to spend $200+ on speakers and then moisture destroys the crossovers, so probably better to keep them out of harms way. plus its not that hard to run an extra set of wires through the grommet if you have to. like i said it's just my opinion and the way i would do it.

Moisture is a problem for crossovers mounted in the door. i mounted a set of focal crossovers in the door and when i went to change the tweeter setting the switch was rusty. the crossovers were mounted up from the bottom and the drain holes were all clear. water gets in around the glass. it can drain but it is still getting in there. Would you hose your crossovers off then let them dry inside a steel box even with a drain hole ?

I have 3 runs of heavy duty 12ga speaker cable and two extra runs of 16ga speaker cable running through the factory grommet. There are plugs in the door and plugs behind the kick panels that if you disconnect you can pull the old loom and grommet out from the hinge area. Then spray wd40 on the cables and in the grommet and pull through. I found that if i pull one wire through and tape the other wires to it staggering them it is easy. Then feed the wires and plugs back into the kicks and re connect them and the same for the door plugs.