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FrankTheDuck |
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I like to think i have a fair idea what im doing when it come to my audio set up, I've got all standard equipment in my EF atm (have just bought it) and i wanna rip it all out and work from there.
Now im unsure of the speaker sizes at the front and back (am still yet to receive delivery of vehicle) But i don't want to have to fuss about too much with enclosures and the such. Id rather use the areas already there. But heres my question, I want a simple set up, 2 speakers at the front 2 at the back and the sub in the boot or two. Do i have two amps or one? I'd assume two, one 4ch for the 2 front and 2 back, and a mono block for the sub. Also, can a mono block power two subs? If so what do i have to look for when considering one? My head deck only has two outs (not sure if this would matter, even if it had only one, i don't see an issue in tapping it to make two three or more, it's still the same audio coming out, Correct me if im wrong) Also, when a sub says "Champion Series 30cm (12”) Component Subwoofer (2 Ω Dual Voice Coil Type) 1200W Max (pioneer) TS-W307D2 " Does that mean it can handle a max of 1200W at 2 Ω??? What sort of amp should be bought to run it? For example would a Class-D Mono Amplifier GM-D7400M (pioneer) Do the job? Brief specs below. # 200W x 1 (4 Ω)/ 400W x 1 (2 Ω) (continuous power) # 400W x 1 (4 Ω)/ 800W x 1 (2 Ω) (max. power) (im looking at a full pioneer set up btw) Im assuming that amp would run that sub? It just seems awful pricey with the sub at only $159 RRP and the amp being $449 RRP Perhaps someone can suggest another amp for it? I'm just looking at pioneer as I've used it before with out hassle. And then what amp and speaker power would i look at for my mains? Any tips suggestions would be appreciated (yes i've had a read thru the provided tut's Some i understood some confused me) Cheers Frankie
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jrloz |
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Speaker Size is the standard 6 inch speaker front and back. If your on a budget spend most of your speaker budget up front (if not all)
First things First, Dont talk about Max Power. It can be ignored. The RMS for the TS-W307D2 Sub is 400W. {USERNAME} wrote: Do i have two amps or one? 2 as you rightly assumed {USERNAME} wrote: Also, can a mono block power two subs? Yes, but you need to consider the Resistance. a 2ohm DVC can be made to show 1ohm of resistance, wire that with another 1ohm sub in parallel and get 2ohms at the amplifier. If the amplifier can handle 2ohms then its going to be fine. The amp you listed will only be giving 200w RMS x2 channels at 2 Ohms. Though having 2 subs at 200w RMS will be louder than 1 at 400w Rms. But clipping will be much easier since you will be pushing the amp harder. {USERNAME} wrote: And then what amp and speaker power would i look at for my mains? What are you talking about here? What guage wire you want to use? |
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Stone |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Also, can a mono block power two subs? Yes, but you need to consider the Resistance. a 2ohm DVC can be made to show 1ohm of resistance, wire that with another 1ohm sub in series and get 2ohms at the amplifier. If the amplifier can handle 2ohms then its going to be fine. Fixed but speakers should not be run in series. Coils should be run in series and speakers run in parallel. {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: And then what amp and speaker power would i look at for my mains? What are you talking about here? What guage wire you want to use? He means what power rating speakers and then what amp to suit. Don't worry about looking at speaker power ratings until after you own them... Find something that you like the sound of and THEN buy an amplifier to suit. Buy an amp that makes at least the RMS rating of the speakers, but the more power from the amp, the better |
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jrloz |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Fixed Thanks for that. Im tired OK! {USERNAME} wrote: Find something that you like the sound of and THEN buy an amplifier to suit. Buy an amp that makes at least the RMS rating of the speakers, but the more power from the amp, the better Again you are right. Just let me explain your reasoning for the extra amp power a little bit in case the OP isnt sure. The extra power isnt there to be able to over power the speakers. An amp will distort more as it is being driven to its limits. So by having a more powerful amp you can get less distortion for the same amount of power going to the speakers. Wording is off a bit but it is 7 in the morning lol. |
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FrankTheDuck |
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Well i've already got the head deck. All i need too spend on is the Two amps (sub and front/rear) and the speakers for each amp (plus enclosures if needed eg sub).
Im happy to spend any where up to $1500, Im also more Fixed on Quality over Quantity if this would help. When you mention the gage of the wires used is where i get a little lost as well, Im hoping the guy at what ever store i go to can help? (who knows now days sales people seem to have no idea im learning) Or lets say i was going to give you $1500 What would you get audio wise, That way i can see what you guys would like, find them and have a listen my self, and make my own judgements Cheers Frankie
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Stone |
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Don't tell them how much money you have... They will then work you to make the most profit/commission from your sale.
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jrloz |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Don't tell them how much money you have... They will then work you to make the most profit/commission from your sale. best tip in this thread! |
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FrankTheDuck |
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lol i wont tell sales people no. I never bring money into any convo with them, I meant more to you guys what would you aim at with that amount of play money?
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phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: lol i wont tell sales people no. I never bring money into any convo with them, I meant more to you guys what would you aim at with that amount of play money? I would spend at least $250 - 300 for a set of good front split speakers and maybe $100 for the rears. Amplifier will have to be able to power the front speakers (about 65-100WRMS maybe)...so looking at a decent amp would set me back about $500. That's already $900. Sub and a mono block for the extra bass kick...probably $150 - 200 for a 12" and amp at about $600 as well. Already over your price range, but I would rather spend the money on a good amp with average speakers than good speakers with average amps. Remember the amplifier is basically the power house...crappy amps with great speakers, will limit you to crappy sound. It also depends on set up and enclosure of course. Also account for wiring, blown fuses and maybe new battery terminals. Hope that helps.
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FrankTheDuck |
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I've got a clarion amp laying around somewhere, i used for my rears in my XF, if i can find it i may just use that to save some $$$.
I had the clarion 2ch amp running my rears, the fronts where off the head deck, And a Pioneer sub and amp, Sub was rated 400WRMS and amp was matched if i recall correctly (they cost me around the $650 mark apparently on special lol) That's not alot of gear there, But it sounded excellent to me. I didn't really want to crack the 1500 mark, So if i just use the clarion amp i have laying around for now (and get some good speakers that can handle a better amp down the track) i can save some dosh now, and then spend some more in a month or two. Cheers for the info guys. Frankie
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jrloz |
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{USERNAME} wrote: so looking at a decent amp would set me back about $500. For a 300 dollar pear of speakers..............I would spend 200 dollars on a 2 channel amp,{DESCRIPTION} This kicker amp would be fine for anything besides EXTREME volume. Then I would spend the 300 I saved on the amp on getting some really good splits {USERNAME} wrote: blown fuses If it is done right then you should never blow a fuse.{USERNAME} wrote: Sub and a mono block for the extra bass kick...probably $150 - 200 for a 12" and amp at about $600 as well. Again, spending 200 on a sub doesn't deserve a 600 dollar amp. (probably JL),I would spend max about 400 on the amp. |
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fairlane6970 |
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Sorry to jump in on your thread, but i have a NF Fairlane and a pair of Sony 6x9's will they fit anywhere? - don't be rude i'm no mr dj type
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MadMatt |
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Also consider a dual battery system.
I only have a 100amp cable running to my boot with 60amp fuses. A 600amp truck/4wd battery in the boot. My entire sound system is powered by the battery in the boot. Only the acc. trigger wire is powered from under the bonnet. I can run my system for 6 hours+ and still expect the car to start. My batteries are only linked when the ignition is turned to "on".
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Stone |
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What have you used to separate/isolate the batteries?
Dual batteries are not required in this situation though |
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MadMatt |
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I have a solenoid under the bonnet.
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