Well that setups fine - if youre not too serious about the competition side of things I'd go sealed - keep it at the 2cuft mark. With subs inverted even better as you get slightly increased internal net volume.

Best bit of that setup is you get to keep your boot as many guys here have done - sub box behind the rear seats - subs firing into cabin (not as audible as facing the rear but either either). Can knock up so nice cheap carpeted/vinyl etc etc cover pieces - a panel for the amp along one of the sides and its a neat tidy install that will sound a treat...

i am making mdf backing and sides and fibreglassing the front with some nice curves. If you think bigger than 2cuft will be better, should i make it a little bigger, cos i have room. i am putting the subs in the left side of the boot facing the rhr and amps on the rhs. ill send you a sketch

The pic you sent what do you plan to do with the centre area - you way find its more moulding and materials yes but will perform better if you had each sub either side firing into the rear tail light corners inverted with you amps racked in the centre small to large...

I dont have my original boot pics with me before going to the below but was the same setup with the side pods, amps were centred under a sub floor with a black mesh grill across the top so the amp lights would shine through - had a similiar setup to the alpine models you have now.

2cuft is fine as one enclosure I wouldnt advise going any bigger as this is beyond their optimum specs and you will fine will reduce their output as you over exert the woofer having to move more air than its designed too....being a fibreglass enclosure it will be difficult to calculate volume and this is where going ported should be avoided....most ported guys will build their enclosure then make up a fancy fibreglass cover piece for aesthetics..

 

 

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so the way i want it, should i not do it or do each sub facing the tail light?? i wanted it to look a little different, unbalanced. Yes i chose sealed cos of the fibre glass factor. Was planning to pput a screen in the centre. What one are you selling? how much?

should i not do this design??

..kev?

is it or going to be a "tuned" box or just a box two sit some subs in?

hahah box to sit subs in....course not, whats the point!?!
Going to be tuned for sure mate.

Sorry champ been offline busy as trying to setup the new install and remove all the old stuff - complete re-wire again... hehe

I havent decided what i'll sell the pods for as yet....depends on what your after to whether they will suit or not - im also not sure if the internal boot was identical in the EB-EF etc.

What Froudey is referring to isnt whether you tune your equipment and just throw the subs in a box but build an enclosure to suit specific parameters to achieve a particular goal eg: maximum efficiency/maximum output at a specific resonant frequency etc.

Every enclosure has a tuning frequency known as F3 (the -3dB point) sealed enclosures always tend to be smaller and provide more control of the woofers linear cone motion at that point - below the tuned frequency sealed enclosures due to their dampenning effect still provide good control of that motion providing strong tight bass notes below F3. The trade-off with a sealed enclosure they are generally 3 to 6dB lower then bass-reflex types such as ported/vented enclosures which will provide that 3dB gain and will provide increased efficiency and higher output above the tuning frequency however below the -3dB point will have lower output and less extension - this can cause the driver to 'unload' and can damage your woofer if to much power is supplied below F3...there are loads more factors involved but this is just a general cover.

Again all comes down to what I said earlier about what you want to achieve - something that sounds tight, can be heard loud n clear by the neighbours or one note-wonders in serious SPL competition.

If the above is still confusing or if you have any questions let me know - i'll keep an eye on this thread

Cheers
Kev