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rainoffire |
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I am going to be installing an alarm in my EL in the next couple of weeks, most likely a Mongoose M80G. I have done heaps of research on them and they seem to have a pretty good reputation and the alarm has all the feature I want and need, plus it has heaps of upgrade options for the future.
I am a bit unsure how to go about the install with smartlock though. Some people get a smartlock interface module that basically tells smartlock everything is okay. However, from what I know about smartlock, all it does is check with a light that there is a key in the ignition barrel before it will start. If this is true, it seems like just installing the alarm and tapping the central locking wire, then ditching the factory remote *should* work, as the smartlock will be quite happy that everything is okay. Is there is any logic to this idea? Also, seeing as the car is dual fuel, what would be the best three circuits to tap for the immobiliser? I'm guessing ignition for sure, and then either fuel pump and gas solenoid, or possibly an ECU wire, but i am open to suggestions. |
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magna |
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smartlock works off the ignition barell so it wont be affected by the alarm. the MAP80G upgrade alarm works with the factory remotes as it taps into the lock/unlock signals from the BEM. its a great unit when it works but for some reason it can play up in a small number of EF/ELs.
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rainoffire |
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that was my logic, thanks for that! great to hear it confirmed before i buy that alarm, just wanted to make sure. I was looking at the upgrade alarm, but in the end i think the M80G will be easier to install on its own, plus its technically still building on whats there from factory, as smart lock should still work.
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Monty |
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So do these work fine with the Orginal Door locks in the EL. I was looking at getting the M60s for mt EL Fairmont. I have not checked the price difference between the M80 and M60
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rainoffire |
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I havent got around to wiring mine up yet, i may have a crack at it tomorrow. However, i ended up paying $250 for an M80G, then an extra $80 for a microwave sensor. The only catch is i didnt realise i could only have 2 sensors connected at a time, so now i have a glass break sensor, microwave sensor, and shock sensor. I think im going to leave out the glass sensor, i figure it would be hard for someone to break the glass without setting off the microwave and shock sensor
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One Drone |
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If you are putting a mongoose alarm in your falcon I highly suggest you replace the factory door lock motors with solenoid type central locking. Firstly the factory motors tend to crap out and they can be expensive to find one replacement let alone 4. Secondly, because of the way they work, the mongoose alarms can get confused as to what "state" they actually are in; that is locked or unlocked because these alarms from memory are "polarity learning" for the lock and unlock lines. To replace them will only cost you about $40 from jaycar and some spare time.
If you have a fairlane or fairmont with interior dimming lights, it's probably better to get the M80 upgrade kit instead of the complete kit with the remotes so you can still use the factory remote and when you unlock your car the interior lights will turn on and when you lock they go off straight away. There is a way around it if you already have a kit but it's just a bit of extra work.
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Monty |
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How did the install go. I just purchased a M80G to out in my Fairmont, They Guys at Moongoose said to use this one over the Factory Upgrage as they tend not to work correctly in the EL's as some voltage is not a constant voltage and can range from 5v to 12v.
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One Drone |
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That's probably the door motor voltages. The upgrade works perfect if you upgrade the door motors. Do you happen to remember which voltage they said it was?
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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Sommers NL |
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I've put many alarms in EB-EL, don't touch smartlock, never have a problem!
Oh infact in EF/EL the boot buttom does not work for 5-10 after the key has been taken out This makes the alarm go off as a click a relay in the BCM, all you need to do is put a diode there, Oh and also, for the centre locking, its good to put 2 there ...
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Monty |
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{USERNAME} wrote: That's probably the door motor voltages. The upgrade works perfect if you upgrade the door motors. Do you happen to remember which voltage they said it was? I think it was to do with the smart lock. |
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rainoffire |
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Hey guys, thanks for all the feedback, sorry I didn't reply earlier. I didn't get around to doing the install yet, it was pretty daunting when I looked at what i had to do, wanted to sit down and work out which circuits to immobilise and get an overall plan in my head before I started cutting wires and going nuts. Glad to hear in advance about changing the door lock motors, I will definitely do that. Are the ones from Jaycar the way to go? Or am I better off getting the Mongoose ones. I'm guessing I need one master and 3 slaves for an EL falcon, as I only have one actual door snib. Also does that stop the annoying noise that the EL falcons make when they unlock slowly, and just make them unlock instantly, cos that would make it much more worthwhile! I hate that sound, always sounds like they are dying.
Mine is only a XR6, so it had a mid range BEM in it, but I just did a climate control conversion on it, so it now has the green BEM in it. Whats the workaround on the interior lighting, as I already have the standalone kit. |
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Bassfreak55 |
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Hey mate, have you got around to installing the M80G yet?
I'm currently tossing up between the MAP80G (upgrade) and the M80G, although am in two minds... I was hoping you could shed some light on this with your experience! |
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rainoffire |
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Hey mate sorry about the slow reply, i forgot about this thread. No i haven't got around to doing it yet still, been pretty slack in that regard actually. Should be going in within the next month as the car is starting to come together now. I'll post up how I go once I get into it
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rainoffire |
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Okay guys, finally on holidays and decided to pull my finger out and get into getting this alarm in the car, as its holding the rest of my project back. Dash is out of the car and all wiring is going under the dash and running through the factory looms. I got a full set of door locking mechanisms from jaycar and am going to use them to replace the factory door motors. Just have a few things to clairfy before I start.
Because the car already has central locking, can i just use the door trigger to lock and unlock the car, or do i have to integrate the whole central locking loom? This is a breakdown of where the wiring is going to go currently, hopefully somehone can have a glance over this to make sure im in the ballpark Wire 1) LHS Indicator positive (Dark Green) Wire 2) 12V in directly from battery Wire 3) RHS Indicator positive (Dark Green with Dark Blue trace) Wire 4) Dome light negative (Black with Dark Blue trace) Wire 5) Siren Trigger Wire 6) Bonnet Trigger (Negative) connects to bonnet trigger Wire 7) Boot Trigger (Negative)(White) Wire 8) Earth Wire 9) Earth Wire 10) Park Lights (Positive)(Brown) Wire 11) Trunk Release (Negative)(Black wire off boot release solenoid) Wire 12) Positive door trigger, somewhere that causes doors to unlock, I think its (Yellow with black trace) Wire 13) Unused Wire 14) Accessories input (Black with Yellow trace) Immobolisers I'm pretty sure the relays are internal in the M80G, which means you just break the wire and join the immoboliser wires from the alarm in. Circuit 1) Immobolise Ignition Circuit (Red with Dark Green Trace) Circuit 2) Immobolise Starter Circuit (Red) Circuit 3) ???? Maybe ECU??? Thanks in advance guys Blake |
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One Drone |
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For the jaycar locks, you don't have to use the whole wiring loom. Just cut off the connecting plugs and wire them onto the factory wiring. The biggest job will be the drivers door as that will be the master control actuator. This is because you will need to rout many wires from the door to the relay near the BEM. So at the BEM, cut the door lock/unlock wires there then have those wires wired into the door lock relay. I'd probably stick that relay module around there somewhere.
If you're using the dome light negative for the door open trigger I don't think that will work as that wire from memory will set the alarm off when the 1 hour courtesy lamp circuit (or something like that) will go off in that time changing the voltage. I'll have to look into it again. PM me if you need more help mate, posting this stuff will just make it easier (IF) anyone wants to steal your car lol.
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