Cheers for that Overkill, thats what i've been wanting to hear, the auto lec out my way won' tell me s**t unless i pay them to do it...

from what i've seen there's two wires that come off positive battery, couldnt you just run a cable from positive battery in boot and join it to those two cables? do the same thing with the earth/negative

Thats the idea...i'll say it nice n simple..have 2 under bonnet cables both normally connect to positive terminal on ya batt and an earth from negative terminal on ya batt.

Somewhere under the bonnet( i have mine just up from water bottle but can use original batter location) have a distribution block with a what ever size cable in holes and at least 1 4guage cable out. Mount battery in the boot....connect 2 engine bay wires to distro block inlets and run 4 guage down the drivers side - thru the firewall or clutch cable hole....along drivers side through boot opening to positive on battery. run a 4 guage earth wire to the chasis/grounding point as short as possible.


If you can afford it and good if u run some nice gear and still only want one batt is add a second distro in the boot say one 4guage in, one or more 2/0 guage out. (2nd block is just so u dont have to run 2 cables thru firewall...more annoying and not good to have long 8 guage for this idea.) so then connect identical short length 2/0 guage from batt p[ositive terminal to distro block and the same for the earth to the ground...from the negative batt terminal.

That ensures excellent current delivery to distribution block to fire down the 4 guage and always a good idea to have battery neg and positive cables the same lengths...(earth never shorter).

This allows you to hang a 0 guage cap or what ever really close to the battery power supply with loads of cable capacity for amps etc.

I'm curious, what's the benefit of this mod?

Just cleaner engine bay and closer to the amps. Did it in my XD. Probably wouldn't do it again. More likely to go twin battery.

Gives you engine bay space. Specially if got to fit some extra goodies in there can be handy (i.e. extra pipework for the intercooler).

Yeh and as twrc7x said its more for the guys doing forced induction mods you really have too go boot mounted bat if you go the turbo path so you can fit the pipework so much easier. That or serious audio mods cause you really need all the power as close to the amps as u can get em.

For those who have batteries in there boots , in what position have you mounted them. I was thinking about drivers side near the quarter panel , having that much weight out that far would kill any handling . I just will have to decide if i really need a spare tyre.

My PS2 and stacker are on the drivers side, and ive got an amp on the passenger side, so i've put my battery in the spare wheel well... got a distribution block in the inner guard where compressor once was, ran 2 lengths of 0g from battery along passenger side sill to starter, then a length along the bottom of firewall to my distribution block. All cabling has conduit along it, ive got a circuit breaker in the boot, battery is clamped down and in a box (of course), and hid all of the old wiring to the battery, looks neat as...

nah dude suspension doesnt notice....youd still be keeping thebattery weight on the same side of the car where it used to be anyways.

I have my D34 in a box in the tyre well and 2x other 650c'amp odysseys angled on either side of the boot facing out in a custom mould

have you guys got any pics

I'll see what ive got from when it was being constructed but no promises...and takes to long to pull apart to get to the tyre well.

Would normal 4 guage amp wit do ??? And just earth batt in boot and one off block to body and just joining and shrink wrapping positive under bonnet to one that runs to boot