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Fordsrule174 |
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B Bear wrote: Ahhhh that's peace of mind This is all making a lot more sense now, you have been great help ! I think I will order the Kenwood amp off ebay with the 1 year warranty and all basically same price as the ryda site. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190450399602?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 ive ordered my JL sub and my old pioneer amp and a headunit for a mate from elite electronics they have a site and its cheaper there than ebay http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/ind ... cts_id=282
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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B Bear |
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Oh sweet I'll keep that site in mind ! I ordered it off ebay only cause didn't have money in paypal and all that... but have now bought the kenwood amp and should hopefully have it by the end of the week. Thanks again for all the help mate I'll kept you updated on how it goes.
So what type of audio setup are you running now Fordsrule174? |
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phongus |
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Don't bother about the Farad capacitor unless you're running a very high powered system. I have 1 x 800WRMS and 1 x 400WRMS (at 12.5V) and don't run a Capacitor.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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Fordsrule174 |
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phongus wrote: Don't bother about the Farad capacitor unless you're running a very high powered system. I have 1 x 800WRMS and 1 x 400WRMS (at 12.5V) and don't run a Capacitor. thank you phongus i have 800W RMS (is 1600W RMS drain on my electronics) and i dont have a capacitor either my audio system is a JL audio 12w3v3 Sub powered by a JL audio Slash 500/1 and my speakers are powered by a JL audio Slash 300/4 rear speakers are JL audio TR600-CXi and front speakers are JL Audio C2-650x
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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B Bear |
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Thanks for clearing that up phongus
Sounds like a pretty good system Fordsrule174, how much did it set you back if you don't mind me asking? |
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Fordsrule174 |
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B Bear wrote: Thanks for clearing that up phongus Sounds like a pretty good system Fordsrule174, how much did it set you back if you don't mind me asking? about $2k
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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B Bear |
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Phoaw ! Must be a nice sounded package
I got my amp in the post before, only took a day to do get here !! Glad I ordered from the melbourne dealer. Might try and put it in this weekend, got to finish off the front end suspension work first as had some minor hiccups along the way. Will report back |
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TriggerHappy |
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Quote: HOW MUCH POWER DOES A CAPACITOR STORE? Capacitors are a waste of money. I run a system daily that can potentially put out over 11000wRMS (yes 11k). the only way to keep power up for any sustained listening is by beefing up your wiring and charging system. I run three 110amp falcon alternators on a custom bracket just to avoid voltage drop and i have High CCA batteries in the spare tyre well. 1 Farad = 100 joules or 100W/second 850cca battery = ~2,200,000 farads For storage purposes, you'd need ~2,200 1 Farad capacitors to equal the energy of your battery. Due to its impedence (ESR & ESL), a cap's energy is only 50% available. What's worse, is that in order for a 1 Farad cap to discharge, first the alternator output must have maxed out, and the voltage must have dropped around 1.5 volts. But I thought a cap was supposed to prevent that (voltage drop)!!!!!????? Yep, you got the point. IF A BATTERY = 2,200 CAPS, THEN WHY BUY A (PUNY) CAP? My question exactly. Marketing is the reason why people buy caps. In many cases, upgrading wiring will help your system get the maximum transfer of current. Once that has been reached, adding a capacitor may have a minor effect on your system. 50W over the course of a second is not a lot of power considering an amplifier may draw 2000W to put out 1400 watts. Let's look at the situation from a resources standpoint. Alternator 80 amps Car accessories (minus stereo) 40 amps A large Car Audio system (DRAWS ) ~200 amps AT FULL OUTPUT In this case, you have 240 amps of draw, but only 80 amps of current from the alternator. In your case, you need 160 amps x 12 volts or or let's say 1920 watts of energy. Since a cap stores 50W, how much of a difference do you think it's going to make? A cap is basically a peashooter. W+e need a Howitzer cannon here, to do the job well. Also, Once a cap is discharged, where does it get it's power from? The alternator, which is already overloaded. Once a cap is discharged, it's worthless. Like SWEZ says, ・.The cap already shot its wad, an does limp til recharged・ I知 not so certain I will allow him to babysit my kids, but you get the drift. (I never said it quiet like that... and oh...I'm great with kids!) SO, WHAT IS A CAPACITOR GOOD FOR? 1. Audio Jewelry- impress chicks with large cylindrical shiny thingy 2. Extra weight in winter time 3. A very POOR... BUT expensive distribution block 4. A projectile in the event of a crash 5. Rolling pin--for cooking purposes 6. A neat thing to tell your friend, "..Hey man, lick the top of this.. Most people that spend there money seem to spend it on the wrong things like capacitors. The most important thing you can do for sound quality is to have lots of amplifier headroom. a 200watt amp works hard to make 200watts and gets distorted and could possibly clip when pushed that hard. If you need 200 watts then get a 400 watt amp and turn the gain down. i run a US-Audio USA-6000 amp on woofers rated at a max of 800watts. I have never smoked them and they work hard for hours on end when the car is on display. The amp never gets hot and the sound says undistorted. When a quality speaker is rated from factory the number of watts they rate it at is its safe zone. They can happily take heaps more power but if you allow the power to be distorted or allow the amplifier to clip then the voice coil has to try and dissipate the current and the only way it can do this is by heating up. That is how most speakers are killed. Here is some good reading for people wanting to know more about how amplifiers work. http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/caramps.pdf |
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B Bear |
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Thanks for the information TriggerHappy very useful indeed
Was able to install the amp over the weekend but now need to tune it, which can take some time as i have no real idea on what to do..... I have done it before but no real knowledge on what it is I am affecting in more technical terms. I usually turn all of the radio sound settings off then adjust it all via the amp itself... |
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dablow |
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B Bear wrote: Hey guys I was thinking of updating some of my audio gear in the car and was looking for some suggestions. I would have roughly $500 to use for this. At the moment I have some Sony 6" speakers for the front and some clarion 6x9 in the rear. I also have a 8" sub in the parcel shelf and 12" Cadence sub in the boot. The 8" is run by a basic 2 Channel Amp off eBay and the 12" run by a 4 channel Clarion amp. I would like some more bass from the system as at the moment it is lacking even with two subs, I think the main issue is that the amps are pretty s**t for the job. I was thinking perhaps running the 4 speakers with the clarion amp and then getting a mono block amp for the 2 sub and getting a different 12" Sub. What do you guys think, even if you have other ideas I would love to hear them. Cheers Ditch the 8" in the parcel shelf. Often this will help get the bass into the cabin. I have a single 12 running off a nice Option audio 1500WRMS amp and even with cheap subs it will get your ear drums tingling and your nose itch. All i can recommend is build a decent box to the application it is being used in and possible a monoblock to power it. If you play punchy music like rock or techno build a sealed enclosure. If you want loud and low bass notes build a large ported box tuned around 30hz. Oh and don't forget the best mod for money in any non factory sound system, which is the "Big 3 Upgrade" (upgrade the alternator to battery, engine to chassis, and chassis to battery cables to atleast 4 gauge or larger) If you want anymore info let me know and ill be happy to help! |
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Ford mister |
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Hey i am runing just one 12" 800 watt kenwood sub with a 2 channel kenwood amp that is bridged into the sub and 6X9 pioneer in the rear shelf and 6" pioneers in the doors with a 800 watt 4 channel amp and it puts out plenty of bass in my ef.
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