|
| KWIKXR |
|
|||
|
Lol, I think you are missing the point.
Stuff like this isn't done with practicality in mind (although this is much more practical then some other "audiophile" type installs I've seen on other forums), it's usually to get the best sound as you possibly can which I think "triggerhappy" has gone for with his entire setup. If you've got a keen ear and listened to a decent 2-way front stage, jumping into a car that has an install with componentry of this calibre up front would blow you away. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ranio |
|
||
|
celosa wrote: Hi Guys, New on here, EFII Fairmont Ghia set up purely for SPL (but sounds good on SQ as well when its tuned down lol). Not setup for looks, as things like carpet can actually reduce SPL Still a work in progress....more to go! Headunit: JVC Amps: 2 x LW2600d (soon to change) Subs: 2 x RE MT 15's What numbers are you hittin mate? |
||
| Top | |
||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
The basic idea behind door pods like that, is to change the aim of the speakers to improve the sound quality, but also sometimes you might have a speaker that you like, and want to have in your car, but it wont physically fit in the door, so something like this is required. And sometimes it's purely for the fun of building something, or the looks of it.
I bought a set of sepakers for my old XF that I ended up needing to make door pods for, which I then discovered afterwards that my window winder wouldnt work, so I had to fit electric windows too. It can be a sacrifice to have a good sound system. I looked for ages to find a set of speakers that I had been keen on for ages, to fit in the EL, and when I finally did find some, they wouldnt fit in the door without custom door pods like tiggerhappy's. I prefer the factory look now so I boxed them back up and bought another set that did fit. I'm sort of glad it happened that way because I ended up with a much better set of speakers in the end. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TriggerHappy |
|
||
|
Was going to get some better photos for you guys but thought if you wanted them you could ask. System as it stands now has Focal tweeters, Dynaudio 3" mids, Peerless 8" midbass and Mach5 18" woofers. Powered by 2 Audiosystem F2-500 amps for mid-high and a US-Audio USA-6000 (Bonecrusher 2) for woofers. no rear speakers.
  
|
||
| Top | |
||
| dylby1 |
|
|||
|
KAC 9105D 1800W max monoblock amp. (it the bigger one, the smaller one is an 8105D, my old amp)
 2 x Pioneer Champion Series 12 inch subs. 1200W max, 400W rms, in a us audio competition box  Old layout (1 sub and smaller amp) The box was too small for the sub, would be more suited to a smaller, shallower less powerful sub  
_________________ 1993 NCII Fairlane |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| kick_ass_ford |
|
|||
|
KWIKXR wrote: Here's a few 'finished result' pic's of the boot install in my EF below, camera flash made the carpet look all funny.. Nothing special, just a low budget install.. False floor (with pop out panels for spare wheel and fuel pump access) and side walls made in 12mm MDF, sub box built with 18mm MDF, 1.8cu ft internal volume, 3" flared round port, tuned to ~35hz. Pioneer TSW3001D4 subwoofer powered by a Soundmagus DK1800 monoblock running 1000rms @ 2ohm. Jaycar fused distro block (2ga in, 4ga to mono, 8ga out to front stage 2 channel amp) and a 30x SMD white led strip boot light to illuminate s**t properly at night.    Couple of weekends worth of work involved, with lots of trial and error, but well worth it in the end. Pumps pretty well too  Just wondering how you mounted it to the boot?
_________________ EF XR6 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| KWIKXR |
|
|||
|
Techincally it's not mounted in anyway to the factory boot at all, but that was the plan from the start; makes for an easier removal if need be. It's just sitting over the top of the original boot flooring and carpet, but suspensed with heaps of small MDF supports underneath the floor.
The floor is one piece (apart from the access panels) and was a very tight fit in the boot so it has no movement at all. Walls were built and mounted to the floor, sub box was built and is just a slide fit over the floor and the hump behind the back seats, and the side fill in panels between the walls and ends of sub box are just a push fit. It's held itself together pretty well so far 
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| kick_ass_ford |
|
|||
|
have you got any pics of you building it
_________________ EF XR6 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| KWIKXR |
|
|||
|
Here's a fair few from the progress of it
 False floor stages   The cut outs in the false floor have little MDF tabs mounted from the underside of it which stick out just enough for the pop out panels to sit on so it all sits flush once in..   False floor and panels carpeted with plastic lift-up handle fitted to spare wheel panel ..  Wall mounted with amp mounted to it.. (The wall is held up by 3 L shape shelf brackets, 2 on the hidden side and one on the internal side which is hidden afterwards)  Hidden side of the wall. The top cover will be screwed into the bare MDF lip which is screwed into the wall, with a snug fit up against the edge of the left edge of the boot    Similar job with opposite wall  Wiring runs along the top side the floor. This in turn gets hidden once the box slots in place.  Sub box construction..   Box was later on modified for new twin sub's (front baffle removed and made up a new one, as well as cutting and fitting a dividing wall) and also changed to a better amp..    What it looks like currently, however new sub's should be in soon.  
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| kick_ass_ford |
|
|||
|
thanks helps a lot im was going to use 12mm mdf im using two 10" 500 rms kicker subs and im going to try make a port that goes into the factory sup hole
_________________ EF XR6 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ranio |
|
||
|
kick_ass_ford wrote: thanks helps a lot im was going to use 12mm mdf im using two 10" 500 rms kicker subs and im going to try make a port that goes into the factory sup hole use at least 16-18mm mdf, 12mm is too flimsy for a strong box, if you use 16mm, Make a double baffle to minimize flex. a sub box needs to be strong, any flex and you not only loose volume but sound quality as well. if your going to port through the parcel shelf use a 4inch pvc pipe. try and flare each end of the pipe to reduce port chuffing/ noise. |
||
| Top | |
||
| ausedwagon |
|
|||
|
 amp (with old carpet)   
_________________ 94 White ED Wagon |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| kick_ass_ford |
|
|||
|
What do you mean by double baffle? i was going to use wood glue and screws to hold it to gather and use that fluff stuff inside the box
_________________ EF XR6 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| kick_ass_ford |
|
|||
|
What do you mean by double baffle? i was going to use wood glue and screws to hold it to gather and use that fluff stuff inside the box
_________________ EF XR6 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ranio |
|
||
|
kick_ass_ford wrote: What do you mean by double baffle? i was going to use wood glue and screws to hold it to gather and use that fluff stuff inside the box by double baffle i mean a 2 layer front where the subs mount to, so instead of mounting them on a single 16mm panel, you mount them to a 32mm baffle. wood glue and screws work fine. the fluff is there to simulate more internal volume in the box, can lower the volume out put by .5-1db (barely audible to the ear.) but can increase sound quality. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 15 guests |
