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I have some Dynomat substitute, and tomorrow I might start putting it in the doors. Just a question to those who know what their doing. What do I do about that yellow band of greasy rust proofing stuff on the lower part of the doors.
Do I just try and go over that, I'm not sure if anything can stick to it, afraid of removing it? Last edited by Kit on Sun Dec 11, 2005 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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| Blu Falc |
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not sure mate but will clearance with the window when wound down be an issue?
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Shouldn't do. In all it's about 2 to 2.5mm thick. You know, layer of tar with thin film of aluminium over the top.
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| argonEL |
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Kit wrote: Shouldn't do. In all it's about 2 to 2.5mm thick. You know, layer of tar with thin film of aluminium over the top.
Im interested in what/where you got it from? Also let us know if it has made a significant difference...
_________________ 2006 BF XR8 - Lightning Strike with Orange Stripes - Herrod quad system with Herrod extractors, Herrod ram air intake kit, Coil overs, Whiteline swaybars, Kumho KU36's. |
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| Big Kev |
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argonEL wrote: Kit wrote: Shouldn't do. In all it's about 2 to 2.5mm thick. You know, layer of tar with thin film of aluminium over the top. Im interested in what/where you got it from? Also let us know if it has made a significant difference... If its not too bad a stuff should make a heaps big improvement - I noticed quiet a difference once I had my doors deadened
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So I'm confused, do I apply it to the inner door, the same surface (BUT INSIDE) that the exterior door handle is attached to. Or do I apply it to the surface the speaker is attached to?
If I apply it inside the door, what do I do about the narrow band of rust proof grease at the base of the door? BTW, I'm using Flashtac from Bunnings. I compared it to Dynomat yesterday and theres f**k all difference, except of course, the price 
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| Blu Falc |
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apply it to the door not the surface the speaker is mounted to but the metal surface of the actual door (but inside obviously)
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And the band of rust proof grease at the bottom, nothing will stick to it surely?
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I've just taken my door trims off. What a pain in the a*** this jobs gonna be. Has anyone applied layers of this deadener onto their doors before. Any tips, I suppose just get stuck into it hey....
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| joeboo |
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yeh stick it 2 the door skin, fiddely but worth the hastle
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| xr Rob |
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yeah mate i have done it on my ef take door trim off and speeker out and put the sheet on the door and the stuff i used i needed a heat gun and to heat itand push it in to place
_________________ If you think life is bad. Imagine being a egg...you only get laid once, you only get smashed once and the only bird that sits on your face is your mum! |
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I haven't got a heat gun, luckily it's a hot day tomorrow
I've washed all of that yellow rust proof grease off, and replaced it with a spray coat of rust-kill. I'll let that dry overnight and get stuck into the deadener tomorrow. You know the door trim screws and bolts, those big bolts that screw through the armrest to bolt the trim to the door. Well on the back door one of my big screws turns freely. The steel stud on the door that contains the screw thread has broken free and turns freely. How the f**k would someone go about fixing something like that. I don't no where to start with that one, always has to be something doesn't there hey... 
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| aphexer |
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i deadened the doors on the EF i had bout 2 years ago. deaden every thing u can
 the idea is to lower the resonant frequency of every panel (as bass is non-directional). deaden everything in sight! hahaha
_________________ 2003 BA XR6T 5spd Manual PHANTOM |
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It's a hard thing to do in those front doors. Theres all sorts of stuff in the way. Can never get a perfect seal on anything.
I noticed there is quite a bit of room in the rear doors. Would be a nice place for a couple of nice 4" Boston drivers or something. Wouldn't mind relocating the rear speakers into the back doors. The sound can get a bit boxy in the back sometimes. |
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| EFfalconsrule |
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How many layers did you do?
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