6 or 6.5s for sure, wouldnt bother with 5x7s. You may require a small amount of tin snipping and a thin piece of MDF to mount the 6" with, however its a pretty minor task.
What I would recommend depends on your budget, whether they will be amped, and if so what amp.
I'm assuming you'd be after component speakers as well.

will be amped for sure. also will be putting in some new speakers in the parcel shelf most probably some basic 2 way pionner for rear fill then i will be getting a amp to suit the application.

budget is around $300 for front speakers but will to spend a little bit more if need be

cheers, bear

Hey BEAR,
Are you after some nice clear speakers with good mid-bass?
I've heard the rockford fosgate power 6.5" components before and they were up there with some of the nicest sounding speakers ive heard. They are around the 250-300 a set mark and will blow your mind! Of course it is based on preferrence of what you are after. They are similar to the focal and such as Rockford Fosgate are more of a sql oriented company than a spl oriented company.

Cheers

Sam

iv also heard Focal and Rockford fosgate and they both sound great. I have Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" splits in the front and the 6.5" coaxials in the rear and the are very clear an punchy. tbh i dont think you are going to get the sound from pioneer unless you go there PRS series.

Would have to agree with Gezza.
Most of the popular brands (ie: kenwood, pioneer, sony, clarion) dont usually have exceptionally good speakers (unless you opt for the competition range, and still they arent as good as equivalent brands) because they tend to market theyre products in a price range that simply does not allow enough for quality. On the other hand, focal, hertz, rockford, polk etc. start at a higher price range so theyre 'base models' are already well beyond the middle range of most other brands. Ive found that soundstream have some good sounds in their upper range. Im running the Xstream 6.5 components and they are great for the price i paid for them ($220). Keep a look out for the higher class brands as nearly anything you buy from them will sound fantastic.

Cheers

Sam

mate i dont even like kenwood, i recommended, for that guy cuz its fairly cheap and easily accessable ie, from strathfeild, or a local audio shop that might be in his area..

http://manual.kenwood.com/files/B64-3517-00_00.pdf

^^^^ check that mate, i believe at the bottom in SPECIFICATIONS, it gives u both 12v and 14.4v power outputs... not same amp, but there general test volts for all their gear.

at IDLE you SHOULD have 13.8v - 14.4v.... ur a genius put a set of testers across ur battery at idle and tell me what u get.... probably between 12v - 14v roughly. yeah? i dunno bout u but i like listening to music while i drive o.O, dont you? not many people just sit in there car at idle and pump there sound system?? that comment made no sense, u made ur self out to be a fool by saying it.. o.O

read further, i said ive installed both that sub and amp together before and it sounded great, YES u are right it will only pump out about 1/2 the rated RMS power output of that sub, but the price was cheap and its a great little starter package, which seemed relevent to the op of the thread, because he seemed new to the whole thing.

so now THATS clear, why dont u f**k off.

If i had of known there were C**k heads on here like u that like to start s**t over nothing, then i wouldnt have bothered signing up here... u sure ur not a commodore owner..

You stupid f**k.

Go read what you said.

Go read what I said.

Do you think voltage drops down to 11-12 when you start driving?

Also I'm not a C**k, its not my fault you're sprouting s**t like its gospel and I've called you out on it all.
Dont login anymore, the site will be far better off for it.

Settle down love.
What does a car sitting at idle @ 12-14v and a car driving @ 12-14v have to do with any sterio (becides some spl machine)
Grab yourself a db meter and sit there with the car off and test it.
Then let her idle and test it.
Then sit with foot on the gas at 2500rpm and test it.
You won't see much differance. And any differance will be compensated by road and cabin noise whilst youre driving, listening to music... like you like too...

Just because some brands put their ratings at 12v and some put it at 14.4v or at 14.0 dosnt mean that much at all (that's just what they "test" them at) and Its certainly not a reason to buy one brand over another.
the differance would easily be compensated for with a more aggressive tune.
With the cheap brands the only thing you really can believe (and should care about) is the rms and the load rating. By cheap brands I mean pioneer, sony, oa, mtx, clarion, rockford fosgate, vdo, kicker, ect. Yes these brands make comp gear.
No I don't mean the comp gear is cheap.
almost everything at wow, supercheap, autobarn, strathfied ect, is cheap, over priced, over rated and simply entry level(if that). (Excluding the comp gear.)

Now... if you think that sub runing at half power off that amp sounded great makes me question if you actually own that mtx set up.

We are all C**k. Just leave...

Bear80.
I wouldn't bother getting 5x7s. I would just got for 6.5" splits too.
5x7s are along the same lines as 6x9s. Trying to fit a low in with a mid and some highs. Really dosnt perform extreamly well.

As a sugestion go listen to some mtx splits or OA splits. Not the BEST but they are well priced for what they are, when on specialyou can pick up a pair for around $200. Then head over to a local jaycar and grab a 2channel responce amp, now everyone don't flame me, these are actually very good amps for the price, and are cheap as. I got a 2channel for $70new, runs a small sub fine and ran my fronts awesome.
80wrms per channel or 200wrms bridged.

But deff ditch the 5x7s

HA.. 87silude...

"Just because some brands put their ratings at 12v and some put it at 14.4v or at 14.0 dosnt mean that much at all (that's just what they "test" them at)"

please do some research.. o.O

the diff between 12v and 14v could be as much as 200w rms in some cases ..LOL

that mtx set is mine lol, or was mine, in my old au, now its in my ba... PLEASE fellas im not trying to start fights with ppl ???

u started this s**t krisisdog, so i defend, no i dont think voltage drops as u start driving, if u find me a car that runs perfectly on 14+ volts, i will come to were u live and suck ur C**k for 2 days straight with out taking my mouth off.. and bow down to u in all ur mighty holiness.. and YOU stupid f**k, read what u wrote...

"At idle you should have 13.8v plus, up to 14.4v."

yeah theoretically you SHOULD have 13.8 - 14.4 but REALISTICALLY you dont... if u knew ur s**t u would know that..

and im not sprouting any gospel, i simply tried to help this fella out, and ppl lashed out at me.. o.O

u didnt call me out on anything, ur a keyboard warrior, a hero, praise krisisdog because YOU know so much dont you??

thats car audio 101, basics mate, that batteries DO NOT always run at optimum volts

ask anyone who actually knows anything about auto electronics.. im sure they will be more than happy to tell u

so maybe dont go starting s**t for no reason, cuz thats a dog act mate, and maybe u should sell ur ford, and buy a crummydore, ur personality suits it better.... ANGRY BOGAN

all this cuz i said my ba speakers sounded good...whats the matter, dont like being wrong, or disrespected MIGHTY KRISISDOG....pfft loser, dont waste my time...

and 87silude, i agree with u here >>>>>

"Then head over to a local jaycar and grab a 2channel responce amp, now everyone don't flame me, these are actually very good amps for the price, and are cheap as."

these amps actually won 2nd or 3rd place for product of the year 2008

is there anything you would recommend in the pioneer catalogue????, yeah i know it may not be a top notch full on brand but my wagon is a full pioneer car and i am happy with the sound and i happen to like pioneer gear, and i wouldnt be getting a 2 channel amp as i would prefer a 4 channel to amp the speakers in the front doors and parcel shelf and then get a seperate monoblock or bridgeable 2 channel amp for a single 12" sub.

i haven't decided on what amps or sub i will be running just yet, it's more or less just in the planning stages at the moment.

all i do know is the amps will be more powerful then what i need so i upgrade proof if the need ever arises

cheers, bear

"Could" mean as much as 200wrms, in a 1000wrms application maybe
What I was saying is that say if its 200wrms at 12v dosnt mean its worse then one that's 200wrms at 14v. if anything Its probably gonna have a little more power when the systems at 14v.

Charging system Can be from 13.6 to 14.4
Hell I've seen cars charge at 15v or 12.5v because they are made to.
If what you are buying isn't top notch ground shaking gear don't worrie about the voltage its "tested" at.


Bear80, you have a full pioneer system or want one.
if that's what you really want go for it. But I did it once (with mtx audio) and it was expencive.
Now I much rather mix and match brands. Get in on specials and cheaper brands with the same sound quality.
Personally I hate pioneer speakers. They distort extreamly easily and seem to rip off the rubber a lot. Saying that I've never owned any of the better gear they've made.
There amps seem ok, and the subs and headunits are well made. I think its the "champion series" of pioneer subs that absolutly hammers for what it is.
Just make sure you listen before you by.


4 channel is a good idea, make sure it has individual gain, filter and bass boost controls other wise you may find yourself with limited tuning space.
Im using a mtx rt404 4channel I bought atleast 3 years ago for $250. Still going strong today.

mix matching component brands to the max.
This is what I've got.
Headunit - sony
Front 4" - alpine type s 2way
Front 6.5" - Option Audio 2way coaxles
Rear 6" - mtx 3 way
4 channel for front speakers - mtx
2channel for sub - jaycar responce
Sub 12" - Option Audio street series 2011.

All over the place but still sounds damn good. (Rear speakers are rooted from water and front OA speakers have been re coiled so they are getting close to the bin aswell)

R= resistance ohms (4)
V= volts (12.6 & 14.4)
P= power rms (??)

P=v2/R
12.6 x 12.6 / 4 = 39.69 rms
&
14.4 x 14.4 / 4 = 51.84 rms

Just a little equation explaining why power out put on an amp can vary depending on input voltage.

If anyone is trying to buy an amp, just look out for test volts, it's common for cheaper brands to test at 14.4 v instead of the more common 12.6 - 13.5v.. Which is what more cars than not run at, if anyone else disagrees with me besides Krisisdog please let me know, and with out starting a fight, tell me why u think this is not the case, I'd like to hear what other ppl think about this..