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| Big Kev |
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EFfalconsrule wrote: Well I now have 2 Boss 500wrms subs and 2 nice little amps to drive them off. So all I gotta do is everything else.
Sounds nice dude be interesting to see how it goes....to me 150db i think will be out of reach...is possible but yeh 150+ is a fair effort I dont think most realise the money and modifications that have to be done to achieve this mark or higher. - In saying that I havent seen many utes in SPL so maybe interesting...is yours a single or dual/twin cab ?
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| Big Kev |
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Anywhoo and thought I might seperate this - for SPL competition depending on the extent of the mods you do, you could compete in the following classes.
Street Division Street B Class [A maximum of 2 subwoofer amplifiers (or 4 externally bridged monoblock amplifiers)] Street C Class [A maximum of 4 subwoofer amplifiers (or 8 externally bridged monoblock amplifiers)] *The sum total of “stiffening†capacitors in Street B class is limited to a maximum of 1 Farad. The sum total of “stiffening†capacitors in the Street C class is limited to a maximum of 2 Farads. **Street B classes are limited to 1 battery. Competitors in the Street C class are limited to 2 batteries. ***Hybrid (ie 12/16 volt) and/or custom-made batteries are prohibited ****The primary battery must be located in the same general area as the OEM battery location Street Max Division Street Max 1-2 Class [A maximum of 2 subwoofer amplifiers (or 4 externally bridged monoblock amplifiers)] * Again same rules as street A/B/C classes in regards to capacitence, batteries and sub amplifiers Super Street Division Super Street 1-2 NW Class – 1-2 Woofers, No Wall Super Street 1-2 Class – 1-2 Woofers Extreme Division Extreme 2 Class – 2 Woofers Have fun mate and enjoy be keen to hear how she goes and whether you can achieve your 150db or higher goal.
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| twr7cx |
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Why not just fill the tray with subs and amps? That'd look way cool!
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| Big Kev |
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twr7cx wrote: Why not just fill the tray with subs and amps? That'd look way cool!
hehe yeh been done many times before and looks trick .. why not 
be good to park at the drags or races lay in the boot witha stubbie watchin a DVD with some s**t hot sound thumpin
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| EFfalconsrule |
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Nah. I wanna go to the race day and race. Any how I think 150 is in reach. Maybe not with the original gear but certainly with the car. As far as classes dude I live in Cairns they dont mean squat up here. If you got a stereo you compete. Plit it up - light weight, cruiser weight and heavey weight. I will be cruiser weight.
Cheers.
_________________ Stage 1 stereo install done. Pics in audio section. |
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| Big Kev |
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EFfalconsrule wrote: Nah. I wanna go to the race day and race. Any how I think 150 is in reach. Maybe not with the original gear but certainly with the car. As far as classes dude I live in Cairns they dont mean squat up here. If you got a stereo you compete. Plit it up - light weight, cruiser weight and heavey weight. I will be cruiser weight.
Cheers. oh ok fair enough...well good luck with it all anyways
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| EFfalconsrule |
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Yeah cheers. Got info from engineer today. To remove whole rear wall in cab only need a metal frame around edge of cut out area. Plus I have heaps of boily mates so should be an easy thing to do. Now to decide how much to take out. Just enough for 2 subs and port or whole wall and make a new one. Any thoughts??
_________________ Stage 1 stereo install done. Pics in audio section. |
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| Big Kev |
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EFfalconsrule wrote: Yeah cheers. Got info from engineer today. To remove whole rear wall in cab only need a metal frame around edge of cut out area. Plus I have heaps of boily mates so should be an easy thing to do. Now to decide how much to take out. Just enough for 2 subs and port or whole wall and make a new one. Any thoughts??
Well anything is gonna do mate....it just whether you want it showy or not and the amount ya gonna be willing to spend... If ya going for stealth install or its gonna be hidden by front seats and tools in the tray....then nice flat wall...subs internal to the box firing out of the box onto the cabin.....central port hole at either top or bottom of the box.....could have port firing into the cabin aimed in same direction as the subs or firing upward out of the top. However if ya have a cover for the tray (is this a ute or flat bed tray)....so that you dont have to worry bout thieves lookin in. Then id have subs setup the same..port hole going into the cabin in same direction as subs fire with a 20-24mm solid perspex window at the rear...so at shows or showin off  looking into the back of the cab u can see the rears of the subs....id hide a cathode light in there too...maybe even go the reflective mirror laminent all over the inside of the box
would look a treat...but depends on if its a covered tray etc. Just some ideas anyways...otheriwse nice and simple...compleetely sealed MDF enclosure...carpeted..nice n simple but looks clean and in the end the sound is whats gonna draw the attention.
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| Vibrate |
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Well, i'm planning on puttin the stereo outta the old explorer into the new bf ute. Sealed box with foam to compensate for small box size. i got 140 in the explorer, considering the size of the cabin, i think 150 is easily acheiveable with such small space. My main concern at the moment is cracking the windows. ive seen big audio installs on utes before, and lets just say it gets really loud with minimal effort. but yeah windows are gonna suck.
_________________ Explorers gone, bring on the ute. |
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| Big Kev |
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Vibrate wrote: Well, i'm planning on puttin the stereo outta the old explorer into the new bf ute. Sealed box with foam to compensate for small box size. i got 140 in the explorer, considering the size of the cabin, i think 150 is easily acheiveable with such small space. My main concern at the moment is cracking the windows. ive seen big audio installs on utes before, and lets just say it gets really loud with minimal effort. but yeah windows are gonna suck.
I highly doubt you'll crack the windows mate cars with 160+db dont crack the windows....there sealed well...only if you have really thin s**t glass or its real loose that youd have to worry that cadence watever 180db ambo still doesnt break its glass and the windows are still stock just had silicon run round the edges. and yeh 150db is achieveable just really gonna depend on how he does his install....why foam in your box....wouldnt dakron be better to compensate? at least then you wont be restricting air flow as you would with foam.
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| Vibrate |
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yeah, not foam, i dunno its some high density crap my alpine dealer gave me.
i was worried about the glass due to a dude cracking his back window in a chevy(yeah enuff said) pick-up. hit 140+ or something at the last comp i went to, and yeah juss saw the corner split. wouldn't have been cheap. Not to mention back window of the exploder always gave me trouble. had to tighten it on a regular basis. better safe than sorry
_________________ Explorers gone, bring on the ute. |
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| EFfalconsrule |
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Hey Kev some nice ideas there. How ever tis gonna be a purely spl system so looks at this stag dont faze me. Am now thinking whole wall coz then only need one brace insead of 2 - 3 braces. Also gonna put port behind drivers seat and subs behind passengers seat. Only reason for this is meter is put in front passenger side of car. The port on the opposite side is supposed to compensate pressure behind the subs so in theory the waves hitting the mic are only from front of sub.
_________________ Stage 1 stereo install done. Pics in audio section. |
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| EFfalconsrule |
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Ok I think I got that right. It is hard to put what is in my head onto a computer. Trust me. LOL.
_________________ Stage 1 stereo install done. Pics in audio section. |
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| Big Kev |
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EFfalconsrule wrote: Hey Kev some nice ideas there. How ever tis gonna be a purely spl system so looks at this stag dont faze me. Am now thinking whole wall coz then only need one brace insead of 2 - 3 braces. Also gonna put port behind drivers seat and subs behind passengers seat. Only reason for this is meter is put in front passenger side of car. The port on the opposite side is supposed to compensate pressure behind the subs so in theory the waves hitting the mic are only from front of sub.
Only problem here tho is your goin to run into difficulties getting it the best ou of the setup...how would you go about box sizing...becuase having both subs behind the passengers seat and the port all the way over on the drivers side...you have a) a very long port length and a massive enclosure which is gonna mess with pressure and thus how ya port and the spl output will be .... and as to SPL metering volume id think it would be better to have the subs then firing into the mic behind the drivers seat and the port on the passengers....not the other way round...
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| EFfalconsrule |
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Ok but I dont get to choose where the mic goes. But if I remove the whole wall I suppose that I can do some testing as far as where I am going to put them. Both behind the passenger seat I did not mean close together ment more that side of the cab. Like I said it is hard for me to put what is in my head onto here. LOL.
_________________ Stage 1 stereo install done. Pics in audio section. |
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