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Phillip KG |
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Hey everyone, so iv got a weird issue and thought id pitch it out to you guys.
So i just installed a sound system in my car off the stock head unit which is made up of. 2 front JL audio c2 range (60 RMS) 2 back 7X10 Kenwood KFC range (90 RMS) 1 12" JL audio sub (300 RMS) 1 Alpine 5 channel Amp, (4X75 RMS + 300 RMS to sub ) now after installing it and getting it tuned the weirdest thing happened ! when i pump up the music to about 30 on the stock head unit, the second bass kicks in the system turns off. There is no Sound coming from the speakers or sub but the head unit is still on. i can change stations and turn it on and off but there is no sound ! and the amp is NOT going into protection mode!...and the only way for me to get any sound back is by turning off the car and taking out the key. if i dont take out the key it wont work ! Now the weirdest part of everything is that when my car is off the system will go up to 35 and not turn off or anything and is just fine its only when i turn on the car ??????? everyone iv asked is baffled and even the good guys are auto barn had no clue !! if anyone has any ideas please let me know ! it will be much appreciated ! thanks for your time and help guys, ps sorry about the grammar and spelling mistakes |
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Johnson stroker |
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What gauge wiring have you used? how much did you clean up your earth before installing?
Ignoring that it does not shut off at a louder volume, it sounds like the system is bleeding power or dropping voltage somewhere
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misskitten9871 |
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Age: 30 Posts: 201 Joined: 24th Aug 2012 Ride: 1987 telstar/2004 BA XR6 5spd Location: Newcastle |
{USERNAME} wrote: What gauge wiring have you used? how much did you clean up your earth before installing? Ignoring that it does not shut off at a louder volume, it sounds like the system is bleeding power or dropping voltage somewhere +1, check your grounds, battery, alt...also make sure the amp is ok with ohm rating on the speakers, also it may be the amp it's self....i had the exact same issue with a old formular1 amp...it was some dry solder joins in the amp it's self...check your voltage too...you can get a fuse box with a built in volt meter...( i had one and was very usefull ) make sure all the wires behind the head deck are also all ok |
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Phillip KG |
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{USERNAME} wrote: What gauge wiring have you used? how much did you clean up your earth before installing? Ignoring that it does not shut off at a louder volume, it sounds like the system is bleeding power or dropping voltage somewhere Hey yeah im using a 4 gauge Sony wiring kit, and as for the earth i didnt really clean up . i unbolted the back seat and put the earth under the bolt for the back seat hinge. so i think that's fine and misskitten the ohms are exact and its a brand new alpine amp. do you think i should take it back to jb hi fi ?, and yeah checked all my fuses and battery (but i havnt cheacked the voltage from the batt) thanks for the reply guys |
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Johnson stroker |
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pull the earth off and give it a hit with some emery paper, get the paint off and get the earth to seat on raw steel. If it was sitting on top to the paint, you are relying on the thread to be the earth.
Could also be the amp, its not unheard of for a new product to be faulty.
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Phillip KG |
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Ok kool ill give it a try tomorrow and ill let you guys know how i go
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misskitten9871 |
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Age: 30 Posts: 201 Joined: 24th Aug 2012 Ride: 1987 telstar/2004 BA XR6 5spd Location: Newcastle |
i highy dout its the earth, i had my system earthed there..and it was capable for drawing 250amp's never had an issue with it..i would take the amp back for an exchange and get your self a volt meter while your at it
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Phillip KG |
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Sweet ok thanks guys im gonna go get it checked ill keep you posted !
thanks for the help |
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TimmyA |
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Na fix your earth's first because if it isn't the amp you'll look like a tool...
You are only dealing with 12 volts... every ohm you drop impedes the system massively... Hence why everything is run in big wiring to try and drop resistance and avoid voltage drop... You've run 4 gauge copper and tried to earth through a non metallic paint? Bugger all resistance in 4 gauge copper and stacks in paint... Running 4 gauge has been defeated... Unless you manage to turn it into a welder and burn through the paint you would have much luck making a good earth... Make sure the earth between the battery and the chassis is also good as this will have the same effect... When the amp plays up check the voltage at the terminals as mentioned... If you are getting less than maybe 13 without music playing on 4 gauge across the terminals (not positive to body, positive terminal to negative terminal, what the amp is actually seeing) then you have a high resistance connection... The amps could be shutting down due to under voltage (which is what I'd bet at this stage of the affairs) which is likely caused by a high resistance joint (may not necessarily be the earth)... This would explain why it comes on again once you turn the trigger wire off and then on again and it comes back... Have you thought the system may need a capacitor to help prevent under voltage on big power spikes? All my earths in my car are through to raw steel... Never had one issue... Other thing to avoid is using self tapers to earth lugs... I always use nut and bolt with fine threads so they stay tight and don't strip out... Cheers, Tim
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Phillip KG |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Na fix your earth's first because if it isn't the amp you'll look like a tool... You are only dealing with 12 volts... every ohm you drop impedes the system massively... Hence why everything is run in big wiring to try and drop resistance and avoid voltage drop... You've run 4 gauge copper and tried to earth through a non metallic paint? Bugger all resistance in 4 gauge copper and stacks in paint... Running 4 gauge has been defeated... Unless you manage to turn it into a welder and burn through the paint you would have much luck making a good earth... Make sure the earth between the battery and the chassis is also good as this will have the same effect... When the amp plays up check the voltage at the terminals as mentioned... If you are getting less than maybe 13 without music playing on 4 gauge across the terminals (not positive to body, positive terminal to negative terminal, what the amp is actually seeing) then you have a high resistance connection... The amps could be shutting down due to under voltage (which is what I'd bet at this stage of the affairs) which is likely caused by a high resistance joint (may not necessarily be the earth)... This would explain why it comes on again once you turn the trigger wire off and then on again and it comes back... Have you thought the system may need a capacitor to help prevent under voltage on big power spikes? All my earths in my car are through to raw steel... Never had one issue... Other thing to avoid is using self tapers to earth lugs... I always use nut and bolt with fine threads so they stay tight and don't strip out... Cheers, Tim hey im really sorry for the delay but i tried fixing the earth. i completely sanded down the bolt , nut and car body and removed ALL possible paint, i found that it lasted a little longer the first few times than it shut down as normal >< .. right after sanding it down to raw metal it lasted on 30 out of 35 for about 5 secs before shutting down and now it shuts down at 27 tops.. the other weird thing is now im smelling that burning smell like its about to short or there is alot of power burning up through copper wire (i cant explain it )... so i completely turn down the bass and the smell dissipates.. i checked both my earths (from amp and batt) and they were fine, so the resistance is fine, im yet to try and check my voltage as iv had no time lately. but ill get onto it as soon as i can, and one other thing i wanted to say was that its odd because its not when i turn on and off the trigger wire it starts working its when i completely remove my key from the ignition and than put it back in. once the key is in and the car is back on than it starts to work again, it wont work if i just shut off the power and put it back on. and yeah i was thinking of adding a capacitor but than thought that when my car is on the alternator should be producing more than enough power to both the amp and battery |
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Johnson stroker |
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is your power lead getting hot?
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Phillip KG |
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from the amp or batt ? where do i need to check ?
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Phillip KG |
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Umm i checked the power lead and no its not getting hot, room or (inside car temp) i checked it after it turned off from about 5 mins of play time before turning off and it was normal :/
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koopsey |
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make sure your blue remote wire is hooked up to the head unit and the amp,most guys bridge the remote to the 12v power on amp ,when turned up cuts out due to lack of power and check the fuse from battery.
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