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What wood on full custom boot. 

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:51 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
looks good to me mate if you wanted you could get something written in the acrylic windows if the supplier has a CNC router.
seen it done with a custom number plate or pioneer written in there looks real good IMO
would'nt cost that much if they are cutting up the windows anyway


yeah i reckon that would look awsome, hellbent are u gonna keep the usability of the spare wheel with this boot install?



Hmm good question, I havnt really decided about that, I dont think I'll be able to with this setup, but im definately goin to look into it.

The amp enclosure on the right will cover at least 1\4 of the spare wheel carrier thingymabob(technical term for all those apprentices) so I might make a sorta trap door watchyamacallit(sorry for being so technical).

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:29 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Ok guys, thought Id just put up a rough layout (best i could do, I aint no computer expert, lol)

Does anythin think that it should be done differently?

Remember, the amps will be in they own little display enclosures and no just screwed to the board.


when you mount it like that just be careful of the boot struts, its much easier to mount the amps on the side walls of the car, and keep the mdf lines flowing through to your back panel, but thats just my opionion :P well done tho and take pics ;)

 

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Mods: sprint kit, steeda short shift, svo lip, El handles, El Air intake, au xr wheels, lukey cat back, jbl focal and pioneer sterio <--- Sold

Xe ute - Bright green with 302

Da maverick - Straight gas turbo

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Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:16 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
Ok guys, thought Id just put up a rough layout (best i could do, I aint no computer expert, lol)

Does anythin think that it should be done differently?

Remember, the amps will be in they own little display enclosures and no just screwed to the board.


when you mount it like that just be careful of the boot struts, its much easier to mount the amps on the side walls of the car, and keep the mdf lines flowing through to your back panel, but thats just my opionion :P well done tho and take pics ;)


I will be takin the gas struts off, as the boot will flip down so everyone doesnt see Fords great framework lol.

I will make "holes" where the boot brackets swing through, hopefully with a mm of clearance so it doesnt stand out.

I didnt get as much done this weekend as Id hoped, as Ive been preppin my shed to do the headgasket tomorrow. So all ive got atm is measurments, which will prolly change when i cut the wood anyways. And I also gotta put an EL diff in the car, so I dont know where my prioritys lie atm, im thinkin stereo before diff.

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:15 pm 
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Sounds like something similar to my install...

just make sure the amps you plan to use arent too big, cos my small alpine mono-block amp only just fits.

if you have any questions bout my install, shoot me a pm

 

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:27 pm 
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The best way I can describe it is, where your sub box finishes, I will then have a panel going diagnal. This is where the amp enclosure will be.

So from end of sub box, straight to say, the tail light( prolly not, but now u get the idea), and will all be sitting flush (hopefully) and all carpeted the same colour.

I have a feeling that this has been done before, I would love it to my own original idea, but just a feeling.

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:18 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Sounds like something similar to my install...

just make sure the amps you plan to use arent too big, cos my small alpine mono-block amp only just fits.

if you have any questions bout my install, shoot me a pm


Hey mate with your install did you have to cut out two sections to allow the boot hinge to go through or is it recessed enough to allow travel without cutouts? how do they sound like that i'm planning something very similar soon,cheers mate :) :)
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Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 11:53 pm 
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Ok, just picked up a few of the stereo stuff.

JVC headunit - 3 Preouts - 5V
JL splits for front
JL 2ways for rear
A 2ND kenwood dvc sub.


Got to pick up the amps tomorrow sometime.

Audiobahn 1300wrms @ 1 ohm - Flame Series
Audiobahn 4 x 75 wrms @ 4 ohm - Not flame series(cost more than i have for both the same style)

Then next week pick up a new 0 guage amp wiring kit. And the MDF boards.

To all those people who know more about this than me, should I be throwing in a capacitor as well?

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 11:11 am 
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capacitor is not really neccessary unless you are running absolutely huge cranking system....but they look cool :wink:

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 12:20 pm 
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they say dont use anything less than 16mm, i used 12 (i think) on my install and its allllllllll gotta be reinforced, cause it shakes like a mofo.

If you have the money i would reccoment 5 ply, its much stronger than mdf and wont shake so much if at all.

I used double glazed soundproof glass in my install, its pretty good, havnt had a problem with the shaking of the box.

This isnt complete but thats how mine looks.
Image

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:33 pm 
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u got a further back pic byrneing like of the whole boot
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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 4:12 pm 
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Image
or
Image

Thats about as far back as i have atm, its hard to get the box and the floor cause the box is quite far back into the boot.

 

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