actually another question mate whats the best way to remove rust under where the scuff plate is if you dont have a welder?

hey just wated to no the price of a respray on an EB ever glade geen with a bit of pearl and dont want to do the engine bay. o yer and a body kit to (sprint kit)

cheers Duff

are there holes or just surface rust

Tough question all depends if you want a 2000 dollar job or a 10000 dollar job
Shop around have a look at work coming out of different shops & remember you only get what you pay for
Save yourself some money by stripping as much off the car as you can
Average price will be around 5000

no holes bit if i took back ther rust yeah proberly

grab a wire wheel in a drill if there are some little holes clean it up the best you can knock the surface into a dent and use some fibre reinforced body filler {karglass or metal mend} then finish with body filler be sue to remove all the surface rust before using filler

gday Nathan, i've got a question about clear coats - my AU2 is an ex-cop car an i assume its because of the flashing light they probably reached out and stuck on the roof that the clear coat has started peeling off the roof above the drivers door. so far its pretty much peeled off the whole raised section on the edge of the roof from near the windscreen back about 400mm or so. is it possible to just paint some clear coat over it again or will the whole roof need to be repainted? The colour is organza - coupla pics in the gallery but they don't show the bit i'm talking about...

thanks

Geoff

unfortunatly you will have to paint the whole roof depanding on how bad it is as to if you need to paint strip the remainder.If you start sanding with 240 on a buzzer you should be able to get it so there is no edge if when sanding you can see a shiny bit between the clear and the colour you will need to remove all the clear or it will start delaminating again

cool... thanks mate

Hey mate, i'm going to have a go at re-spraying my ute in the shed, two tone it with some graphics.

I'm thinking on doing all the base coats and getting a spray paint shop to apply the clear coat. How hard is it to apply clear coat in a shed?

It's a total colour change, so whats the best way of doing door jams.

I like your dash panels that you re-sprayed, how do you go about doing it?

Cheers for any info you can give me.

This is a link to my dash post
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32873
If you are confident doing the base coat yourself why not have a go at the clear if you are doing it in acrylic its no harder than the base coat if 2K its a bit trickier but practice on the door jambs etc as I said to one of my apprentice I had doing a job for me the other day whats the worst that could happen You might get a run {which can be rubbed and buffed or touched up later
Good luck

So doing a acrylic base with a clear coat would be the way to go?

K i have a few questions for you paint and body guru?

On my 89 fairlane the chrome striping on the skirts has really started to go in a big way and 89 seemed to be the year that ford decide that useing real chrome was not a good idea anymore, i'm left with a fairly clean paint job that is totally ruined by crappy peeling fake plastic chrome..

long storie short i want to color match the bumpers and side dressings to the rest of the car, the car is silver the bumpers and sides are a dark brownish grey with a line of crappy fake chrome... just wondering what kind of work would be required to make shure the paint takes and hold for a long time without peeling or bubbling? the bumper's are plastic...

also do you think i should paint the bumper making the whole car as one color, or with that look bland? any idea's?

also i'm painting a escort in wild voilet, what would be a good base color for a bright finish? i also am putting to white stripes on the ridges down the sides of it, what measure's should i take to insure clean strong stripes, eg. befor the voilet, after the voilet?...

thanks much buddy...

First on the Fairlane you can remove all the chrome stripes easily as they are attatched with double sided tape use a prepsol {wax & grease remover} soaked rag to soften any tape that remains and use a soft plastic scraper to remove.Depending on the condition of the bumpers you might find it easier to repair any niks & chips with a fine body filler {sand with 180 then 320}then sand the entire bumper with a scouring pad {similar to your green one in the kitchen}grey is fairly course {available from your local paint supplies shop}then apply a good quality plastic primer to the areas that have not been painted allow to dry and prime the entire bumpers with 3-4 coats sand the bumpers so they are smooth {you will now have bumpers without any texture}if you rub through keep going and apply one coat to those areas before your final sand and now paint the entire bumpers.If your model has the big thick chrome you will need to get them from ford.I think the chrome on the side body moulds are part of the mould{mental block} if so you will need to buy all new moulds use the same painting process as the bars for the moulds if you use the old ones {if no chips or damage or new moulds sand with scouring pad plastic prime then paint}.The other option is to peel the old chrome off the side moulds and paint the inserts including the bar moulds a different colour {ie black to match the window surrounds etc}
As for the escort a silver base will allways give the brightest finish but wild violet is fairly transparrent so the more coats you put down the darker it will get.For the stripe you are best off doing your base coat {silver then the purple}then allow that to dry do the stripes using minimal coats one if possible so you dont get a huge paint edge then clear over the whole car.Use enough clear so you can sand the edges flat and buff so you wont feel an edge on the stripe

Acrylic is user friendly if you havnt painted before but 2K gives a much better shine and doesnt need to be buffed.If you dont feel confident in using 2K on the outside do the engine bay and door jambs with 2K clear just allow the base coat a week for all the solvents to evaperate before applying clear this will give a good shine without polishing {if you use a good hi solid {hs}clear it is also a lot more durable}