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| johnnyeHCF |
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Is anyone interested in the process of replacing the front bar for smash repair and am also swapping the K-frame.
As in drilling all spot welds to remove the damaged part and replace with a good piece from an undamaged vehicle. In the photos you can see that someone hit something front on before I bought the car and then recently the front passengers corner,you can see the difference between the two in the photos.
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| Robert_au |
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johnnyeHCF wrote: Is anyone interested in the process of replacing the front bar for smash repair and am also swapping the K-frame. As in drilling all spot welds to remove the damaged part and replace with a good piece from an undamaged vehicle. In the photos you can see that someone hit something front on before I bought the car and then recently the front passengers corner,you can see the difference between the two in the photos. Somebody kissed a tow ball; id be interested, i have one that i may replace down the track thats folded in the same way, although it cant be seen with the bonnet down and the front bar on so is it really a issue? 
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| johnnyeHCF |
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So with nearly 40°C have been working on this in the evening and in the night when it's cool.
Tool's needed. Cordless drill or drill. Some good sized hammers. Center punch Chisel (I use an old railway spike) Drill bits/spot weld drill bits. Gasless MIG Angle grinder(cut wheel/flap wheel etc)
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| johnnyeHCF |
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So using a thin type chisel,as I mentioned I use a old (think it's a railroad spike/correct me if I'm wrong) which I sharpen with a flapwheel/angle grinder.After all the spot welds are drilled the chisel is used to separate the two pieces of metal spotted together with a good sized hammer. The thinner the chisel is the less it will distort the metal..
So just for this one front bar there are 18 spot welds,I found it easier just to drill straight through the welds rather than using the spot bit and none of the weld spots are likely to line up between the two bars so shouldn't be a problem when spot welding back up. Like I mentioned the Kframe is being swapped for one with good bushes,while I'm at it I'm doing the sump gasket due to oil leaks,and also replacing the OG struts and springs with new struts and King springs-standard height.
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| johnnyeHCF |
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So I thought it be time that I showed you all my awesome Ford Jedi Skills,it takes many moons to perfect this technique,as you see in the photos I'm using my Ford Jedi Force to hold the engine up whilst the K frame and then the sump are removed.
Absolute concentration is imperative otherwise my head be pancaked! 
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Haha nah it's just done using one of these,works extremely well.
Damn'should have left it to see if anyone believed in my awesome power! May the force be with you all!
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| johnnyeHCF |
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How cool are these,Webco struts with King Springs standard height,$300 delivered,not bad for good quality to your door.
Will be using the polyurethane bushed mounts,these things I believe were made by Technico torque master. Is all I know.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Hey guys,I'll get the photos sorted of the Kframe removal etc,atm it's gone from 40° days to constant rain,so getting the front struts and springs done,halfway through
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| johnnyeHCF |
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So the Kframe removal is starting with removing the airbox etc and the expansion tank and then the struts from the top and then undo the nuts off the top control arms from inside the engine bay. Then there's a few electrical braces for the starter wire that you need to disconnect from the Kframe,then the steering rack and the power steering lines from the rack.
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Even though we are using new struts and springs,you still need to pull the old struts and springs apart as we need the tops for the new set,out of both Kframes the strut tops were all good,but out of 4 engine mounts 3 were totally separated.
And if anyone is wondering YES these spring tools when they slip can actually kill you,had it happen twice just with these springs. Any moisture at all and it has the potential to want to slip,very scary when it happens hey!
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Robert_au wrote: johnnyeHCF wrote: Is anyone interested in the process of replacing the front bar for smash repair and am also swapping the K-frame. As in drilling all spot welds to remove the damaged part and replace with a good piece from an undamaged vehicle. In the photos you can see that someone hit something front on before I bought the car and then recently the front passengers corner,you can see the difference between the two in the photos. Somebody kissed a tow ball; id be interested, i have one that i may replace down the track thats folded in the same way, although it cant be seen with the bonnet down and the front bar on so is it really a issue? Hey Rob,sorry for not answering earlier,regarding the "Previous Tow Ball Kiss" certainly it didn't need anything except for the cosmetic replacement of front bumper etc. But after the side on front impact-from what I can tell the drivers side frame rail is straight but the passengers side is pushed in slightly. Was worse before removing the front bar and sort of flexed back a bit but not totally,will get it sorted though before the new bar goes on.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Okay so trying to get back to this,I planned to swap the Kframe 's as it was cheaper but more labor intensive,the Kframe removed from the donor BA had really good everything whereas the one we were removing had nearly every bush totally destroyed,then I just had to get the good brakes which included slotted rotors braided brake hoses and I swapped the calipers over as they were in better shape.As the Kframe was coming off it seemed like a really good time to do the sump gasket as it has been leaking for a long time.
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| johnnyeHCF |
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So after the sump gasket and the Kframe are back on,I reshaped the damaged corner and then started test fitting the new bar using the lower spot weld holes to line it up flat and straight and then adjust all the tabs in towards the new bar.Once it's as close as it can be all the areas are cleaned using a flap wheel/angle grinder,wax and grease remover and then weld through primer on all bare metal surfaces and in between those before welding together.
Then using various vice grip's-are moved around pulling everything together whilst welding together through the old drilled through spot welds with the gasless mig.
_________________ XG DOHC-BARRA 182/Turbo kit/20% Underdrive and BA 4-SPEED + Tiptronic shifter |
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| Mad2 |
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all looking good! ... no problems refitting the k member?
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Mad2 wrote: all looking good! ... no problems refitting the k member? Hey Mad it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be,once I got the old wooden Kframe tool locked on tight to the transmission jack tool (this allowed me to adjust the angle/pitch)with some big cable ties I just had to line everything up one side at a time and then a bit of gentle up and down till the engine mounts lined up,managed to get it back in by myself too.
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