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Lukieman |
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1. Twice a week, usually rinse, shampoo, rinse & chamois.
2. Not totally sure what needs to be done, or what products actually do. 3. I have those annoying swirl marks when viewed close in reflection, and I hate it. 4. Yeah. 5. I'd stick with it, if it was accessable easily ie. K-mart / Supercheap. 6. Yeah, I love my car in mint condition, it looks great! 7. Takes approx. an hour to wash and dry. Just some more questions on getting that nice smooth wet finish... I'm not asking for showroom here as its too hard to maintain it. I have a relatively new BA Falcon (Narooma Blue) and I just want the paint & finish to last. Lately, Im really annoyed by all the swirl marks left over after I clean it... What do you recommend I use with overly avaliable products (ie. ArmorAll, ect.)????
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
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Lukieman |
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del
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." Last edited by Lukieman on Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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Aurora 98 |
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Lukieman wrote: 1. Twice a week, usually rinse, shampoo, rinse & chamois.
2. Not totally sure what needs to be done, or what products actually do. 3. I have those annoying swirl marks when viewed close in reflection, and I hate it. 4. Yeah. 5. I'd stick with it, if it was accessable easily ie. K-mart / Supercheap. 6. Yeah, I love my car in mint condition, it looks great! 7. Takes approx. an hour to wash and dry. Just some more questions on getting that nice smooth wet finish... I'm not asking for showroom here as its too hard to maintain it. I have a relatively new BA Falcon (Narooma Blue) and I just want the paint & finish to last. To remove swirls with over the counter products Mothers or meguiars Mothers reflections and FX lines protect the paint with a paint sealant or wax Actually maintaining a better than showroom finish is not difficult, lot easier than refinishing the paint every 6 months because the paint is refinished and sealed, crap doesn't stick to it, rain fall off, less repair work to do Lately, Im really annoyed by all the swirl marks left over after I clean it... What do you recommend I use with overly avaliable products (ie. ArmorAll, ect.)????
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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data_mine |
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What would you recommend to protect against stone chips. I'm getting my front bar resprayed soon, and want to try to keep it looking good.
I noticed (@ auto stores) some sorta stone guard spray on stuff, dunno if it a: works b: affects the finsih (ie. not as shiny or discolours the paint) c: worth the $
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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Lukieman |
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Just some other questions...
What is the difference between 'Polish' and 'Wax'? What would be the difference between a Polyglaze Polish to a Meguires Polish? The only thing I can find that says 'sealant' is the Meguires Wet-Look Polish? But it says to use its 'Cleaner' before applying it??? How should I be applying these products?
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
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Aurora 98 |
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data_mine wrote: What would you recommend to protect against stone chips. I'm getting my front bar resprayed soon, and want to try to keep it looking good.
I noticed (@ auto stores) some sorta stone guard spray on stuff, dunno if it a: works b: affects the finsih (ie. not as shiny or discolours the paint) c: worth the $ There are many rubberised stone chip coatings, wurth has one, magnum top gear, 3M and others For everyday driving, as many coats of sealant your coat can handle - about 10, acrylic sealant is the best to resist chipping Highway runs interstate - 3M clear film or a car bra As I have stated before, put glad wrap over the front before fitting the bra to prevent damage from dust and the bra scuffing the paint A stone chip guard coating used on top or lower parts of panels may give a strong orange peel look to the paint which is the reason I won't use them there A company in queensland has a long lasting spray or roll on type protectant We have a tin of it in the garage and the only drawback is that you have to put it on, then wait 3 days before driving so it can cure 4x4 accessory stores sell it in some states You spray or use a roller to put it on and it forms a rock hard second skin over the paint, much more than any sealant or rubberised coating It's your choice to which one you choose but a paint sealant is the easiest option Combining sealant plus the rubberised coating or the 3M film doubles your chances to have no damage
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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Aurora 98 |
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Lukieman wrote: Just some other questions...
What is the difference between 'Polish' and 'Wax'? A polish is a paint refining product that removes a thin layer of clearcoat or paint, removes oxidation and fading and restores the shine and gloss of the paint The abrasiveness of polishes varies, there are final finishing polishes, polishes with light compounding power (stronger cut) and those that provide the ultimate wet look finish A wax is simply a paint protectant that comes from brazillian trees, there are two types, white and dark It has no cleaners, it's weakness is heat A paint sealant is a synthetic man made protectant that can withstand incredible heat , gets as close to a wax like finish as possible and lasts longer than wax What would be the difference between a Polyglaze Polish to a Meguires Polish? Probably the abrasiveness and ingredients used every brand polish can be made up of totally different ingredients any polish that comes in a tin in most cases is old school polish that will leave powder residue and contain a far bigger amount of petroleum distillates Meguiars polishes are as follows (1 strongest - 7 finest) 1. Diamond Cut 2. Dual action cleaner polish 3. Swirl free polish 4. Wet look polish and sealant (#20) 5. #9 Swirl mark remover (only fills and hides marks) 6. Deep crystal paint cleanser 7. #21 pure sealant The only thing I can find that says 'sealant' is the Meguires Wet-Look Polish? But it says to use its 'Cleaner' before applying it??? Meguiars #21 (look for the number on the bottle) is their latest pure sealant If you want something stronger that is readily available - try mother reflections top coat - great gear How should I be applying these products? With any polishes - a foam pad, the thicker and bigger the better Apply in side to side motions from top to bottom remove with microfibre cloth
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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tfindlay |
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To answer your questions:
Aurora 98 wrote: 1. How much time do you spending cleaning/detailing your car each week
2. Are there any aspects of detailing that you find difficult or too hard 3. Does your car have any scratches,scuffs,marring or other defects that you cannot remove 4. Are you the only one in your family that cares about a car's appearance 5. would you find a product that works and stick with it or search for something better 6. Is there something you really like about detailing your car 7. how long does it take you (approx) to solely wash and dry your car 1. 1Hr 2. Knowing which products do what, and which are most suitable for me 3. Yep 4. Yep 5. I'd stick with it 6. nothing in particular 7. 1/2 a day If you dont mind, a question for you - My car was recentlty resprayed (2 months ago) and it looks pretty good. I dont believe it was clear coated, so it's just plain acrylic I think. Should I still "clay" it ? or can I just get a wax/polish and put it on top ? I'm hoping I can add a clear/sealent coat to keep it shiny in the future. I'm thinking that Meguires #21 pure sealant might be the go ? |
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Aurora 98 |
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Sure, clay it and then lightly polish it with a silicone free polish
I am no paint guru but have been told by many people here and abroad that new paint (non factory) needs three months to fully cure as crash repair/panel shop paint jobs are baked at a lower temperature than factory paint and if you put any silicone polish or sealant on it (the old school ones) that the paint will end up with solvent pop as it has no way to escape Solvent pop looks like little bubbles Give it 60 - 90 days to cure
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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Lukieman |
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Hey thanks Aurora 98, you really seem to know your stuff...
I'm trying out several different products now over time to see what I like, but the basic information you have given has really helped! I've managed to get a nice shine on the BA again, and I think she looks great!!! Thanks for all your help, I think everyone who reads this doco would agree! Luke
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
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Aurora 98 |
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No problem, no point storing up heaps of information in my head if you do not pass it on to others
Helping each other is one part of what life is all about
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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drinkman |
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Too right Aurora, thanks for sharing. After we did t he girlfriends car we got stuck into my EL. Well I was amazed because the painted seemed in such poor condition I wasn't going to bother. However after using the paint cleaner the the glaze then the polish the car actually looks good, not great but good. The paint has far to many deep scratches, scars and chips to ever look anything better than good. I deep manage to get a hold of some XR wheels second hand, and with a bunch of different products scourers high pressure jets I was able to make them look very shiney. I then sealed them and they now look new, well from across the street anyway . They trouble with cleaning old wheels is you have to be carfull not to take the finish of the wheel, to much vigorous rubbing will do that.
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Aurora 98 |
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Great, the car will only get better from now on
Slowly move from the retail stuff to the boutique gear and then let me see some pics
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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Aurora 98 |
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Removing bird crap stains
We all hate it, no doubt about that If you see any fresh crap, get it off by spraying a microfibre cloth with a good amount of quick detail spray and hold it onto the affected area and then gently pat/blot it Then turn over the cloth, spray the QD spray over the area and lightly wipe the surface in one direction Once removed and ASAP, apply a fresh coat of sealant or wax to that area Crap that is left to bake in the sun or left for a few days will etch the paint with a stain To remove this you will need to wet sand the stain A 2500 - 3500 grit should be enough to do it, but if your new to this, do it extremely lightly Then hand or machine buff the paint and your done It is best to carry a few microfibre towels, a clay bar and quick detail spray in your car at all times Sure it might mean a couple minutes at a car park somewhere before or after you've done your shopping or whatever else to remove bird crap but the time spent will save you possible cost of having to wet sand and polish the paint which means less clearcoat clarity (for 2pack baked enamel finishes) and we don't want that The best protection for paint is multiple coats of sealant and same of pure wax
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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drinkman |
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Aurora 98 wrote: Great, the car will only get better from now on
Slowly move from the retail stuff to the boutique gear and then let me see some pics Bahahah. Sorry for laughing, but my ex wife was not kind to MY falcon and it did many a carpark battle against trolleys, other doors and well, god knows what. It now has the scars to prove it, I don't mean scratches (although there are plenty of those) but deep through the paint rips. The paint and colour did come up nice after treatment, but I don't know how to fix the deep paint damage short of a respray, and I'm not that keen. As for products, well you see the girlfriend is able to buy them within her salary packaging thingy, means I don't have to put my hand in my pocket. I rekon in that case the meguires stuff is pretty good. |
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