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 Post subject: Hard to tell
Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:26 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Sorry to stray off (kinda) But on one of our cars which recently (bout 3 or so months ago) just had a paint job redone on a door. Noticed some weird clear crap that looks like it dried. What would you use to get rid of that???


Not much to go by, it could be overspray (a common thing by some in the industry)
If so a clay bar or light polish will remove most overspray (usually oversprayed clear coat)
However if it isn't that, I would need to see a photo to be sure what it is and give you the right advice.

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 11:25 am 
Getting Side Ways
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I think I'll post my question here for your expertise Aurora 98:

My cars get rather dusty due to being in a carport and not a garage.
And then it rains and the water attracts the dirt into the drops and when it dries leaves the dirty water marks.
Now usually if you clean it before the days end or a couple of days just rubbing it with a wet cloth will get rid of it.
But I've left it a bit long on one of my cars and I couldnt get rid of it.
I used some polish but that didnt get rid of it either. You can only see the water marks if you look at a certain angle. Most of the time the panel looks perfect.

What is the best method to get rid of water marks? I'm not after prevention because its just that I forgot to wax the car, so I know how to prevent it I just need to know how to get rid of it once the water marks have taken hold.

 

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 Post subject: Car Detailing tips
Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 11:21 pm 
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Hello All,

I love to have my car clean and tidy, but isn't it bad to be washing a car with the water restrictions in place. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't there a $220 fine if you are caught using water for washing a car.
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Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 11:26 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BF XR6, BF XT Wagon

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Not in WA theres not.

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 11:30 pm 
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Got to a commercial place, they recycle their water, so it's all good.

Or investigate those 'waterless' washes. Aurora98 what's your professional opinion with them?

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 10:57 am 
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We've got recycled down here... no restrictions.

Cheers

 

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 Post subject: waterless
Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 7:40 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Got to a commercial place, they recycle their water, so it's all good.

Or investigate those 'waterless' washes. Aurora98 what's your professional opinion with them?


Hi guys

First - timmeh

Try removing them with a white vinegar wash, if that doesn't do it, it's likely that the pores of the paint have opened up and the water marks are under the clearcoat or have etched through to the sub surface layers, so polishing with p21s finish restorer by hand or a final polish, light or medium compound by machine may be necessary

I had some fresh watermarks get on the boot of my AU and were on there for a day as I did not notice them and the p21s did the job

Since a polish did not work on your car, it's unlikely that a paint cleanser like four star, meguiars etc won't help, in this case machine paint rectification may be necessary

Yes, please wax the paint, multiple times giving 8 to 24 hours between coats to stop water marks again
An acrylic paint sealant followed by natural carnuaba wax will stop them from happening again, just remember to re coat the car every 4 to 6 months depending on what sealants and or waxes you have on
Wax absorbs the water and in some cases leaves a lightly rained on paint just like you washed it.

Do a search for water mark threads at autopia.org

Second - waterless washes

The term waterless wash is confusing now as there are quick detail sprays that actually protect the paint or pure spray sealants are sometimes labelled as a waterless wash

True waterless washes such as QEW (quick and easy wash) I do like , I have some of that at home but actually use it mixed with another product as a clay lubricant
No Wet brand and other waterless washes that claim to clean, polish, seal and wax your paint I do not like as every time you use them, you are lightly polishing the paint thus removing clearcoat and you cannot use them on sealed and waxed cars as it may strip most sealants except acrylics - klasse, zaino etc

My advice
If the car is really dirty, wash it the traditional way with a new twist - 3 buckets (1 - shampoo, 2 - half full of clean water) and two wash mitts (or one if your in a hurry)
If your at a show or on a cruise somewhere and it's lightly dusty - use a QD with 2 to 4 microfibre cloths (dry wash mitts are good for this) or use the new meguiars QD'ing microfibre bone pad
If travelling interstate and car is filthy - go to a self service wash bay (carlovers etc), use the high pressure gun but rinse the car side on using horizontal and vertical angles (depending on which panel) and then use QEW by protect all or similar true waterless wash

If your paint has nothing or just wax on it, you can use those big dusting mops (make sure it's clean and glide over paint to reduce swirl marks)
Any product that claims to do a multitude of things in one step I really dont like.
Waterless wash technology in the USA is improving and I believe we will see some really good ones in the coming year or two

Matty

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 8:29 pm 
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I was browsing through SuperCheap as they had a 20% of everything sale, and picked up a Meguires QuikClay pack (block of clay and spray bottle of quick detailer).

Worked an s*** treat!

My paint (exept the stone chips :() is in excellent condition, but there was a multitude of bug stains I had given up on - but they came off with ease.

Spent the afternoon (a good four hours) wash, claying the whole car, and polymer polish. Came up looking a treat. I'll now keep on top of bug remains more quickly.

Thanks Matty for your good advice. I wouldn't have ever considered clay before (thinking it was heavily abrasive).

 

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 Post subject: Great
Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 10:08 pm 
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Excellent, well done, the meg's quik clay is an excellent readily available clay bar and I'm so glad you have done it, makes a big difference hey
Once you have rectified the paintwork with polishing and then sealed with any paint sealant and or wax, I do recommend the sonus ultra fine 2 bar pack as they will not strip the sealers if used with no pressure.

I am so glad that my advice has been put to good use and you have gotten a great result.
All I really want is to share my knowledge and know that people have absorbed it and the quality of their car has lifted because of that.

Boutique brands I have mentioned do make a big difference and are at the cutting edge of technology but it doesn't matter if you are using meguiars, mothers, zaino, swissol, zymol, turtle wax, autoglym, bowdens own, autosmart, p21s or any other brand, my advice should help you get the best out of the products, make detailing your car easier and give you more time to do other things.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:19 pm 
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Just thought I would let you's guys know about some good tyre shine and wheel cleaner I picked up from supercheap the other day, $20 a bottle but its well worth it.

Wheel Gold - Cleans brake dust and stuff off awesomely without damaging your wheels
Black Gold - Tyre shine (I used it last sunday and its still on good and black today, no mess, no browness)

There both made by formula 1 and come in a yellow bottle. Definetly worth the $20 each.. :D

Ive used other brands such as meguirs n s**t.. nothing compares!
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Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 9:18 pm 
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Wheel cleaner is pretty much obsolete now thanks to wheel sealants

Today's tip

Use as much purified water or demineralised water to wash your car as you can and always use warm water as it acts as a wettening agent.
Makes the water softer which means less chance of water spots

Remember to clay wheels, head and tail lights and glass if you have fallout on them or the paint doesn't feel slick or smooth

For those here who know how to use a rotary polisher or know someone who does.

For an even slicker feeling paint job, clay before machine buffing using a medium (for white or silver cars) or a fine grade for all other colours, then compound or polish

Once that is done, clay again with the same bar or an ultra fine bar.

Fallout are metal filings from foundries/factories and on unprotected paint, stick to the clearcoat and penetrate the lower coats
Never machine or hand polish a car prior to claying, it's hard work
All it does is take the heads off the top layer filings , there are more underneath

Clay, machine buff, clay again and then continue polishing and enhancing the paint and then seal
This guarantees that all the fallout has been removed

Sealing the paint will reduce the amount of fallout that sticks to the clearcoat and it will not be able to penetrate the lower coats and will be easier to remove.

Do not use water as a clay lubricant, a car wash soap is the bare minimum, a dedicated clay lubricant is the best option as it prevents marring
Clearkote quik shine is one Quick detail spray that you can use
Some quick detail sprays dry really quick and cause the clay to stick and leave lots of residue and its a PITA to remove

Klasse all in one cleaner polish and acrylic sealant, you can mix with distilled water , Quik shine or a clay lube to not only lubricate the clay bar but will also very lightly lightly polish the paint as well.

All members - the autopia guide to detailing is available to download from autopia.org and I have my catalog and more info on the products I offer and what my company is all about , available by email or CD

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 5:22 pm 
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what is a wheel sealent mate?
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 Post subject: Sorry
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 6:47 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Thought I had better say this - I welcome car care tips and tricks from all members.
I sort of shot you down for mentioning the wheel cleaners so sorry about that mate, thanks for the tip, good to see there are some over the counter products that work for you.
There is no way that I can know it all, even if I spent 24hrs a day 7 days a week on autopia and detail city
So come on all members, chime in with your tips

 

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Sept 5 - ressurecting the AU XR Falcon and back in the car scene

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 Post subject: pics
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 7:12 pm 
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A wheel sealant is simply a super polymer protectant that you can apply multiple coats to all wheels
Apply, leave for one to seven hours and then remove
Leave for 24 hours and apply the next coat

 

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 Post subject: Re: Sorry
Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:13 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Thought I had better say this - I welcome car care tips and tricks from all members.
I sort of shot you down for mentioning the wheel cleaners so sorry about that mate, thanks for the tip, good to see there are some over the counter products that work for you.
There is no way that I can know it all, even if I spent 24hrs a day 7 days a week on autopia and detail city
So come on all members, chime in with your tips


It's all good mate, Im sure the wheel sealent thing would work alot better than any buy over the counter wheel cleaner, but i dont have the expertise or knowledge unlike you to know such things! lol all I do is scrub everyday and hope it dont rain! lol
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