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| alfy |
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oh and my front guard has 2 nicely sized scratches from a mechanics guard protector haha, how does that work....
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| baboon |
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Yep that first pic of the red MG with serious defects is all over the wagon's bonnet, through the roof and lighter through the sides.
Im really interested in the spot lights you use in that defect pic to demonstrate the swirls? Is it just flouros or incandescent or something else? Im convinced now that I wont use the fillers anymore. Im thinking of the Gtechniq P1 then menzerna PO85RD then some Gtechniq C1. Gotta get me a rotary and some nice pads. I know what i'll be asking for christmas this year! |
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| Aurora 98 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Yep that first pic of the red MG with serious defects is all over the wagon's bonnet, through the roof and lighter through the sides. Im really interested in the spot lights you use in that defect pic to demonstrate the swirls? Is it just flouros or incandescent or something else? Im convinced now that I wont use the fillers anymore. Im thinking of the Gtechniq P1 then menzerna PO85RD then some Gtechniq C1. Gotta get me a rotary and some nice pads. I know what i'll be asking for christmas this year! Oh dear, not good hey. Those lights are industrial sodium vapour lights, we have 16 mounted in the roof of our shop the other lights I have are LED (530 lumens) , 2 x 500 watt halogen work lights and flouro's Your paint should look like this alfy remember this from a few pages back 
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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| alfy |
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mmm *drool* it should look like that, but it dosent
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| Aurora 98 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: mmm *drool* it should look like that, but it dosent dont worry, the right products and techniques and bingo your not that far from me so whenever your coming into adelaide, give me a ring and drop in
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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| alfy |
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yeah i meant to do it last time, but i ran out of time.
id love to leave my car there with ya for a day and say "fix!"  lol but i havent got the fundage at the moment, and a few of my panels (cough* roof, doors, boot, qtr panels ) need respraying (clear is starting to come off in chips, not peel slowly, but full depth chips  ) before i seriously think about getting a professional treatment done.
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| Aurora 98 |
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you might need more than 1 day dude, I spent more than that on one car
anyhow I suggest save your dough, get those panels resprayed, get a rotary or DA and some pads, come on in for some training and then take care of the car from there Then even if you get a new car, you've got the tools to take care of it from scratch (teehee)
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| alfy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: you might need more than 1 day dude, I spent more than that on one car anyhow I suggest save your dough, get those panels resprayed, get a rotary or DA and some pads, come on in for some training and then take care of the car from there Then even if you get a new car, you've got the tools to take care of it from scratch (teehee) haha yeah thats true. i work in a crash shop so i can get a respray done for a fairly good price. just need the time and space to do it.
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| Aurora 98 |
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That is very very handy mate
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| baboon |
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I was just thinking about detailing and was wondering how the paint is actually layered on a car?
I'll list the order I think from bottom to top, this will help me understand better about what Im doing to the car: 7. ENVIRONMENT DAMAGE / UV DAMAGE / SCRATCHES / SWIRLS / OIL AND DIRT FILM 6. PAINT PROTECTION LAYER (ON SOME CARS) 5. CLEAR COAT LAYER 4. PAINT LAYER TWO 3. PAINT LAYER ONE 2. PRIMER LAYER 1. SHEET METAL LAYER Is the above correct? Am I missing something or got something in the wrong order? How deep do products like prima swirl and gtechniq p1 get into the surface? Any help would be great. Thanks! |
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| Aurora 98 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I was just thinking about detailing and was wondering how the paint is actually layered on a car? I'll list the order I think from bottom to top, this will help me understand better about what Im doing to the car: 7. ENVIRONMENT DAMAGE / UV DAMAGE / SCRATCHES / SWIRLS / OIL AND DIRT FILM 6. PAINT PROTECTION LAYER (ON SOME CARS) 5. CLEAR COAT LAYER 4. PAINT LAYER TWO 3. PAINT LAYER ONE 2. PRIMER LAYER 1. SHEET METAL LAYER Is the above correct? Am I missing something or got something in the wrong order? How deep do products like prima swirl and gtechniq p1 get into the surface? Any help would be great. Thanks! Well I'm not a painter but I think its something like this 1. Sheet metal 2. Primer 3. Coloured paint (2 to 4 coats) 4. Clearcoat - (3 to 4 coats) then you have the rest that you listed on top Prima swirl and all other products except Glare, only enter the clear coat pores (however tiny they are) and remove clearcoat film material However many do deep clean the clearcoat. Glare on the other hand, enters and cleans out paint pores and soaks into the clearcoat and possibly even the colour coats and enhances the finish without removing any film material
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| baboon |
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Great thanks for that Aurora98! I very interested in purchasing some of your products. The one I have my eye on is the Trim Dream product. How do I go about buying this stuff from you? Do you have a website?
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| XRFan101 |
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I think you will find that its not availible for public sale yet..
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| Aurora 98 |
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No website yet, no one I've seen has the ability to do the kind of website I want to have made
Got a friend working on something to start me off with however. It will only be a temporary one Trim Dream DIY version is available but the Pro Version which is a more in depth formulation for machine use, is not available and shall remain available to only one shop in each state Detroit custom bodyworks in Sydney are the first possible shop (custom paint and full restoration) Trim Dream is available in two sizes, 3 x 60ml or 3 x 125ml $35 or $70 dollars. All hand made too at the moment
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| Allan Gray |
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{USERNAME} wrote: No website yet, no one I've seen has the ability to do the kind of website I want to have made What kind of website did you want made i do mainly clan sites but i have some good contacts that could help ya |
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