well I'm finally back on home soil and already have five cars lined uo

1960's Ford Mustang convertible show car in glasurit candy apple red 2K paint
this was poorly polished after the very expensive paint job was completed

so I have millions of micro scratches and buff marks to fix
that arrives in our 1,000 sq metre facility in five weeks time
before that comes, starting late next week is my first complete refinish of a vehicle at Adelaide Hills Panelworks in Nairne, South Australia
http://www.ahpworks.com.au/index.php/se ... 7151982fad

then its the phantom mica black VL commodore showcar again for some maintenance and touch ups and from there, back to splash car wash

here's a quick car care tip - paint is wet even if it looks and feels dry. treat it like human skin. regularly wash it gently with ph neutral products, remove contaminants and built up wax/protectants (like doing a facial scrub), polish it with the best products you can get (like conditioning your skin) and protect it from the elements with products that dont attract dust and have high melting points

do not use any products that contain the following ingredients due to health risks and other issues

crystalline silica
nano particles in coatings and polishes (those that are made from nano particles, not that are nano structured)
teflon
dimethyl silicone (clear coloured solvent based silicone - dries surfaces out)
isoproplyl alcohol (weakens polymer sealants and reduces slickness - commonly found in cheap quick detail sprays)
sodium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate
propylene glycol

Is there anything wrong with doing an IPA wipedown before sealing/waxing?

not at all.
as long as its diluted 25/75 with water

g'day to hans, george and all the others
here are some new videos on a basic 4 step deep impact process including 4 step paint decontamination with my new system called PURITY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBoQyLJvt5w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdMjmnABww4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CA-WMij5QyE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgKYUsaiuoU

Hello Matt, I've been lurking around just watching your progress and looks like you've been busy as usual!

I love the new system, the results look fantastic. The deep impact process really does a good job.

Keep it up!

hi Matt,like the purity system-what i need for the extra iron fall out.need more info on the deep impact system,looks very good-------------polishing rag apprentice

G'day Hans
I have contacted the manufacturer of the Iron Cut product that I use, its pretty cheap for five litres
if you want to order some at any time, please let me know
you could sell it like hot cakes because it works, it shows that it works by the colour coming off the wheels and paint. And its PH Neutral acid free

The Purity system removes everything from the paint. Iron Cut just removes iron fallout but it does open the paint pores to flush the iron out and a brighter colour (on bright cars) and a darker shade on black and dark blue/green cars is what it leaves behind
Opening the paint pores is absolutely vital in making the paintwork all fresh and purified.

Matt, I just watched those 4 vids on Youtube and I think that is bloody fantastic.
How do I get onto this "Purity" system of yours?
My Boot lid and Bonnet are starting to look like the hair of an aging
man with black hair, grey spots

Pretty simple mate. I am gathering the funds necessary to source the ingredients and produce a fairly big batch and once I have made it, will send it out to you to test out
Should have all the ingredients very soon

simple to use
Pour the first product (whole contents of bottle) into a 10 - 12 litre bucket
fill with a litre of water
Ratio is 1 parts product to 4 parts water

The bottles I use are 20ml, 125ml, 250ml, 355 and 500ml
Samples will most likely be 125ml
Once step 1 is mixed in bucket with (COLD WATER), Apply to two or three panels at a time and use a sponge, microfibre noodle or lambswool wash mitt to apply and agitate with
Wash the car first so its clean
Apply step 1 from bottom of panels to the top and do not allow any product to drip down the sides

Keep rewetting to prevent it from drying on the surface. Leave the product on for 5 to 10 mins
Once done, rinse with water and dry those panels. proceed to do the next lot of panels on the same side you started.

Step 2 is spray onto a sponge and surface and agitate it like your washing the car or applying a polish
Agitate for a minute or more and then allow to sit on the surface for no more than five minutes
Just before rinsing it off, you should be able to feel all sorts of grit on the surface and possibly see dots and spots. these are the contaminants being flushed to the surface

Rinse off those three panels and continue
Do not Skip step 3. DO NOT APPLY PURITY IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT
TIP : Keep buckets for step 1 and 3 marked and separate. do not use one for both
Step 3 is a simple shampoo like process. Mix whole contents of bottle into bucket and add warm to hot water as per usual.

Wash the car very well, take your time. This is the neutralisation step which includes a super strong but safe dewaxer and ingredients to prepare the paint ready for waxing, polishing, paint correction, glazing or sealing or all of the above

BUFFING PADS WEAR & TEAR

Just like sandpapers reduce in grit as they are used, so are buff pads in their cutting ability after being worked with abrasive compounds and polishes
Some wear quicker than others
Eventually however the cutting foams will have to be used for light to medium duties only or replaced with new pads

There is no guide as to how quickly they will lose their like new cutting ability.
Some pads are high durability, good performance pads
Meguiars pads fall into this category

others perform better but wear out quicker.
you wont see any change in the foam.

choose your pads wisely

Buff and Shine
Edge
Lake Country
DRC 1000 Centrifugal
Schlegel
Flexipads
Gloss it euro pre polymer
Glare (australia only)

All these above brands are the best in the industry and will serve you well for any task, whether cutting, polishing or glazing and sealing

Here is a photo of the Research and Development testing I did tonight on our MG F road car
Hood received orange peel reduction via a special pad, polish and a rotary polisher

Then to correct the marring left behind due to the pad we used
Buff and Shine Hex Logic Green with P1 and Version 1 of my self made Buff Buddy pad/surface lubricant and polish booster
Rotary speed 900 rpm down to 600

Then buff and shine Hex Logic black pad with same procedure
This is the result just from those two pads. No Deep Impact or anything else on top yet



http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dream-Mac ... 175&ref=mf

Bloody well done Matt.

just put first coat of deep impact glaze on

your KILLING ME -no potos to see progress polishing rag apprentice

too dark right now

Dream Glaze just applied with Festool Shinex at 900 rpm. then hand application with same pad
Waiting for it to set and cure for a few hours before the next product goes on