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drewh |
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SWC wrote: HLA = Hydraulic Lash Adjuster thanks SWC - any suggestions on how I should proceed?
_________________ 2001 AU II XR6 HP LIQUID SILVER UTE |
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ryanpatrick42 |
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Just had a look through your build, looks like a fairly nice clean wagon you've got there. As for the ticking noise it could be a few things and my computer isn't letting me watch and hear the ticking so I can't really give any specific advice to what your particular problem may be. I can only really recommend a good oil change with the recommended oil by ford which is Castrol GTX 15-40W with a good quality Repco Z9 oil filter.
This will ensure the oil in your engine is clean and can stop or at least quiet down the Hydraulic Lifters ( even if they're a little noisy doesn't mean your car is about to give up any time soon. ) If the Hydraulic Adjusters have any crap in them they can also be a little noisy and clean oil may help quiet them down too. It is a good idea to change your engine oil and filter every 5,000-10,000km anyway to ensure your engine is as healthy as can be, and in doing so it may just help that ticking noise. In my opinion its worth a try, though I haven't had the chance to listen to the video. As for modding the wheels look good, but definitely needs to be lowered some, especially in the rear. Feel free to have a look through my build thread link in the green below for some inspiration!
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drewh |
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ryanpatrick42 wrote: Just had a look through your build, looks like a fairly nice clean wagon you've got there. As for the ticking noise it could be a few things and my computer isn't letting me watch and hear the ticking so I can't really give any specific advice to what your particular problem may be. I can only really recommend a good oil change with the recommended oil by ford which is Castrol GTX 15-40W with a good quality Repco Z9 oil filter. This will ensure the oil in your engine is clean and can stop or at least quiet down the Hydraulic Lifters ( even if they're a little noisy doesn't mean your car is about to give up any time soon. ) If the Hydraulic Adjusters have any crap in them they can also be a little noisy and clean oil may help quiet them down too. It is a good idea to change your engine oil and filter every 5,000-10,000km anyway to ensure your engine is as healthy as can be, and in doing so it may just help that ticking noise. In my opinion its worth a try, though I haven't had the chance to listen to the video. As for modding the wheels look good, but definitely needs to be lowered some, especially in the rear. Feel free to have a look through my build thread link in the green below for some inspiration! yeah have a listen when you can. Sounds as though is coming from the 4th or 5th cylinder? Oil done about 1000km and in less than a month. We used a repco Z9, and 10-40W oil. Is that still OK? The problem started after a 2 hour (145km) trip. I let my mate drive (i was too tied), and I dunno how he really drove? But he musta given it a bit of stick As for lowering-i share it with my old man so he doesn't want it lowered (cus he's too old ) plus we use it a fair bit for lugging stuff around which. Doesn't take much to lower the back once you start putting stuff in.
_________________ 2001 AU II XR6 HP LIQUID SILVER UTE |
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123esproc |
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Hi, being an amateur/beginner at the whole mechanics scene I wouldn't recommend you yourself to reset the springs or cut them but a king spring at home replacement should be ok (don't mean to be rude or nothing just concerned for a fellow ford modder ) the white strips on the side I'd be leaving white personally but its up to you of course haha mine are black atm and EWWWWW!!!!! haha I hate them and I will be painting them white and also the mirrors. After that I will be adding PINSTRIPES to ( therefore needing the wide side strips)
Mags will make the car! And definately tinted windows too, I like the 'twinlight setup ' but seems pricey. Have you considered painting the bezels in the headlights? ( not to sure if possible in the ef-el) I also think a mild /sports body kit may look sweet to and maybe swapping out the grille..........check out my grille, it was supercheap and looks nicer than standard............... gallery.php?uid=49942&mid=-1
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drewh |
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123esproc wrote: Hi, being an amateur/beginner at the whole mechanics scene I wouldn't recommend you yourself to reset the springs or cut them but a king spring at home replacement should be ok (don't mean to be rude or nothing just concerned for a fellow ford modder ) the white strips on the side I'd be leaving white personally but its up to you of course haha mine are black atm and EWWWWW!!!!! haha I hate them and I will be painting them white and also the mirrors. After that I will be adding PINSTRIPES to ( therefore needing the wide side strips) Mags will make the car! And definately tinted windows too, I like the 'twinlight setup ' but seems pricey. Have you considered painting the bezels in the headlights? ( not to sure if possible in the ef-el) I also think a mild /sports body kit may look sweet to and maybe swapping out the grille..........check out my grille, it was supercheap and looks nicer than standard............... gallery.php?uid=49942&mid=-1 haha! all that stuff at the start of the thread was when I was new to mods or anything like that. Opinions and what not have immesily grown & changed of quite some months The stripes will definately be staying white.. i dunt kno why that came into my mind? Springs will be staying standard for now - we need to lift stuff plus its not of great importance above the mechanical issues we're currently experiencing. We have 17" FTR copies with lowish profile tyres, which I think really set off the car. It already has tinted windows. I didn't think/look hard enough when I did the first post. yes, twin light far too pricey and out of the Q - staying standard. Sorry no bodykit Also too pricey & hard to find. I could remove the centre grill thingy, however I think it suits find ATM. Being a futura, it is colour coded. Long story short - it's my dad's car And ill be purchasing my own falcon some time in the near future (i hope) which I can more successfully mod! Drewh
_________________ 2001 AU II XR6 HP LIQUID SILVER UTE Last edited by drewh on Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:39 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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drewh |
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Got the fairmont! For $200, I realized it was a win. Apart from the tickford motor and mechanicals - the rest could just about crushed
The fairmont ghia had the same xr6 engine didn't it? The guy at our local wreckers wants $1500 for a ef xr6 engine with 200 XXXkm. Another $1000 for the t5. So i reckon we made a bit of steal. Engine Bay - Tickford with 250,000km. Got it from the original owners - old couple so its just had honest work, but lived on a bit of a rural property and ended up a bit of basher unfortunately. Cant wait to clean it - comes up very once the dust and leaves gone! Never relised the fairmont headlights are different to the standard ones (gli, futura) The steering is vastly different to the Futura. Just heaps lighter and easy to turn. I figured that might be power sensitive steering that the mont ghias had? If so, how can we swap it? As for interior - not too flash. Might get the Climate control and a few globes, wood grain, chrome door handles. If theres anything anybody would like off it - let me know. Ill see what I can do for you. Doesn't owe us a whole lot thankfully
_________________ 2001 AU II XR6 HP LIQUID SILVER UTE Last edited by drewh on Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:41 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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123esproc |
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How much for the gear knob and surround? And three footwell lights or similar?
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123esproc |
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How much for the gear knob and surround? And three footwell lights or similar?
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drewh |
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123esproc wrote: How much for the gear knob and surround? And three footwell lights or similar? hey 123esproc, i had a quick look - their only globes aren't they? Probably better off buying them at Jaycar or somewhere? Where do you live? You can have the gear knob for nothing apart from postage costs. But are you certain there's any difference?
_________________ 2001 AU II XR6 HP LIQUID SILVER UTE |
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drewh |
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Got a bit happening! Not so many pics though?! Good fun though and interesting.
Anyway: - Engine pulled out of fairmont. Fair bit of work when you've never done it, searching for bolts, tubes, draining fluids and what not - Got a mates crane truck from over the road - hooked it up and pulled out. - Now in the shed (bit of a makeshift workshop) with an engine crane underneath it Just done some general servicing to make sure it goes nicely: -General clean up with degreaser and bit of spray paint on the block -New Champion Advanced spark plugs -New belt -Rocker cover rubber gasket -new thermostat. -Got new oil and coolant -Got a new exhaust manifold gasket ready >> Appreciate any advice when changing motors. The wagon had been going through heaps of coolant of the past months. Whats the likely cause? Do I need to check the raditor or...? >> Also plan to paint the dash black. What sort of paint do I need? And where should I get it from? >> I am having some trouble removing the auto wood grain surround and lower dash bit. Do I need to remove the whole console to get it? >> When we drove the fairmont, it steered and handles so lightly. Why's that? Our futura doesn't compare. Is it the power sensitive steering? If so, how do I go about changing it over. Also bought some CIA parts to install when the engine's in: -BA intake piping (air box > throttle body) $30 -Auger big mouth snorkel should arrive soon $20 -K&n panel filter ordered off eBay $84 Cold air intake setup sorted in $134! FTW I reckon. . Might do another little mod to direct air from lower down into the snorkel as show in this article: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=107828 -- Question about climate control. See this picture below. Can I disconnect some wires here on the digital climate control and just connect some wires back up from the futura one? Not sure it will work -but would definitely be great!
_________________ 2001 AU II XR6 HP LIQUID SILVER UTE |
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Esteven8 |
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drewh wrote: (1)>> Also plan to paint the dash black. What sort of paint do I need? And where should I get it from? (2)>> I am having some trouble removing the auto wood grain surround (3) and lower dash bit. Do I need to remove the whole console to get it? (4)>>Can I disconnect some wires here on the digital climate control and just connect some wires back up from the futura one? Not sure it will work -but would definitely be great! 1: No special paint needed, however I would advise using plastic primer 1st. 2: Start off in 'P', remove the shifter knob (loosen locking nut under it and unscrew) and lock nut, gently pry the surround up from the rear until it pops out, push down on the rod in the shifter shaft and put the trans in '1', pry up from the front, remove elec connections and globe, done. 3: Once the shifter surround is off you'll see the screws you need to remove to get this out. If you still need to force it, you've missed one. 4: Unfortunately not as easy as that, it's a full dash out job. Read here
_________________ dc_todd wrote: Cheap pads squeal like cheap hookers, and you can take that to the bank. Au Fairmont Ghia My (Old) 95 EF Wagon |
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drewh |
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Esteven8 wrote: 1: No special paint needed, however I would advise using plastic primer 1st. 2: Start off in 'P', remove the shifter knob (loosen locking nut under it and unscrew) and lock nut, gently pry the surround up from the rear until it pops out, push down on the rod in the shifter shaft and put the trans in '1', pry up from the front, remove elec connections and globe, done. 3: Once the shifter surround is off you'll see the screws you need to remove to get this out. If you still need to force it, you've missed one. 4: Unfortunately not as easy as that, it's a full dash out job. Read here Thanks for the advise Esteven8. Does it need to be in 'P'? For some reason I can get it into P? Something must of happened with the gearbox when we pull the motor out. Ill try shifter surround again then it sounds like I'll be able to get the lower dash bit out. I think that's my problem. I've been trying to pull the dash out before woodgrain surround. cheers Drewh
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Esteven8 |
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It should be in P so the black strip over where the shaft travels can clear the back of the console piece when you pry it up. It may be that the button in the knob is jammed. You'll see when you remove the knob and depress the rod, or you could try rocking the car back and forward.
_________________ dc_todd wrote: Cheap pads squeal like cheap hookers, and you can take that to the bank. Au Fairmont Ghia My (Old) 95 EF Wagon |
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drewh |
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Esteven8 wrote: It should be in P so the black strip over where the shaft travels can clear the back of the console piece when you pry it up. It may be that the button in the knob is jammed. You'll see when you remove the knob and depress the rod, or you could try rocking the car back and forward. Nah we got nob off and can depress the rod, so I am going to have to try another method. I think it won't go further than N. Will have to muck around a bit.
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drewh |
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drewh wrote: Esteven8 wrote: It should be in P so the black strip over where the shaft travels can clear the back of the console piece when you pry it up. It may be that the button in the knob is jammed. You'll see when you remove the knob and depress the rod, or you could try rocking the car back and forward. Nah we got nob off and can depress the rod, so I am going to have to try another method. I think it won't go further than N. Will have to muck around a bit. Done. Not entirely convinced of my painting job but will do for now
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