|
| FAST-XR |
|
|||
|
thats right, high temp paint because it can withstand high temps, it doesnt insulate against heat transfer....
How about airconditioning insulation (its just about the best stuff you can buy to insulate pipes against heat... it wont look great, but it will work well.... (the black/grey flexible looking foam tube) its fire proof too...
_________________ 07 BF MKII XR6T |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| shav |
|
|||
|
What about something like these:
http://www.thermotec.com/clamp-on-heat- ... hield.html .jpg) Clamp-On Heat Shield The new and improved flexible clamp on pipe heat shield blocks over 95% of the damaging radiant heat of the exhaust.The High-tech composite construction of the heat shield provides the ultimate in protection. The kits come complete with all clamps and new stainless stand offs. Installs in minutes. Clamp-on pipe heat shields are available in one, two and three foot lengths.Clamp-on pipe heat shields incorporate Thermo-Tec's proprietary coating technology developed by Thermo-Tec, Thermal Conduction Technology http://www.thermotec.com/cool-air-tube-heat-shield.html  Cool-Air Tube Heat Shield Keep your induction air cool with this unique lace up tube cover. The design of the cover allows it to fit from 2-1/2 inch to 3-1/2 inch air tubes up to 36 inches long. The lace on heat shield blocks over 98% of the radiant heat of the turbo and exhaust. The kit comes complete with four different color laces, blue, yellow, red and white. http://www.thermotec.com/micro-louver-air-shield.html  Micro Louver Air Shield Lightweight yet durable, the aluminum Micro Louver Air Shield features micro air louvers, which allow air to flow through the metal shield. The movement of the vehicle creates dynamic air flow, cooling by natural convection. The textured surface created by the micro air louvers creates more area for heat dissipation. The Micro Louver Air Shield is flexible yet durable; it bends and flexes easily by hand, making a custom fit trouble-free. http://www.thermotec.com/thermo-flex.html  Thermo-Flex Thermo-Flex Aluminum is a composite heat shield material with unlimited uses. The material is manufactured with a combination of materials to provide abrasion-resistance, thermal insulation, and physical containment of hoses and wiring. The combination of aluminum, silica, and stainless steel is combined to produce a sleeving that is flexible, lightweight, and strong. The aluminum-silica combination can be slit for applications such as wire looms or hose covering without disconnecting the ends of the wire or hoses. Thermo-Flex Aluminum can withstand extreme temperatures of up to 750°F and is available in four different colors.
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
Those items seem to be focused on stopping radiant heat not conducted heat (heat soak). Its great if the issue is your pipe is near or over your exhaust and is getting heated that way, but if its just the temperature of the air under the bonnet (heat soak) then I dont think it is going to do much.
This sort of stuff is used on accelerator and clutch cables to protect them from the radiant heat from the extractors/turbo/dump pipe. Radiant heat is also a problem for brake boosters when extractors are fitted. I once used some fibreglass looking stuff, that was on the EGR pipe on my XF, to cover my clutch cable but all that ended up happening was the cable melted ONLY under the protective sleeve. So it trapped heat rather than reflect it. I think the only way you would be able to reduce heat soak to the intake pipe is with the aircon foam mentioned above, or to have things ceramic coated (Jet-hot, HPC, etc). |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| shav |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Those items seem to be focused on stopping radiant heat not conducted heat (heat soak). Its great if the issue is your pipe is near or over your exhaust and is getting heated that way, but if its just the temperature of the air under the bonnet (heat soak) then I dont think it is going to do much. This sort of stuff is used on accelerator and clutch cables to protect them from the radiant heat from the extractors/turbo/dump pipe. Radiant heat is also a problem for brake boosters when extractors are fitted. I once used some fibreglass looking stuff, that was on the EGR pipe on my XF, to cover my clutch cable but all that ended up happening was the cable melted ONLY under the protective sleeve. So it trapped heat rather than reflect it. I think the only way you would be able to reduce heat soak to the intake pipe is with the aircon foam mentioned above, or to have things ceramic coated (Jet-hot, HPC, etc). I already have a stainless heat shield over my headers now. This has reduced the radiant heat from the headers and the engine bay already. But the intake pipe is still considerably hot to touch straight after a drive. (refer to pic below of my current engine bay)  Anyone know what the cost of ceramic coating is?
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| KWIKXR |
|
|||
|
Interesting topic Shav, i'll be watching this thread closely..
Im with MADXF about those Thermo-Tec products, they are great when it comes to reducing radiant heat (most commonly generated by headers), but just how well it works against heat soak i don't know. I have used a couple of Thermo-tec's products and they do work well, heatwrapped my headers and there is barely any heat radiating from the headers now, you can hover your hand over the pipes and almost not feel any heat whatsoever. There still is a fair bit of heatsoak going on though, most probably from the head, to the intake manifold and to the piping.. Looks like ceramic coating would be the best way to go about along it with some form of external cooling. Not 100% sure on the costs over in Aussie, but over here a mob by the name of HPC Coatings NZ can ceramic coat 3" exhaust piping for around $30 per foot, not sure if thats internally coated as well though. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| krisisdog |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: I already have a stainless heat shield over my headers now. This has reduced the radiant heat from the headers and the engine bay already. But the intake pipe is still considerably hot to touch straight after a drive. (refer to pic below of my current engine bay) Anyone know what the cost of ceramic coating is? Heat shield looks sick!  Good to see you're pleased with it bud, I had a handful of people on here actually abuse me when I told them that they actually work! Ceramic coating isnt cheap, its a $300 odd option for extractors last time I checked, so maybe half that for the intake pipe? A possible option could be turning the TB around... bit of messing around to do it, and then with the cables, but it would shorten your intake piping considerably, would almost go straight from your charger outlet to TB then! instant throttle response! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| opto |
|
|||
|
I have HPC Coating on the extractors , high temp wrap and stainless shield.
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| shav |
|
|||
|
thanks for your comments guys.
KWIKXR - yes its not only the radient heat I want to keep out, but also the heat soak. I think HP coating is the only way to go to avoid both. Kris - thanks again for the heat shield mate. Its really dropped the temps down considerably under the bonnet. But now I need to try and stop heat soak to this intake pipe. The TB reroute sounds interesting, but could be more trouble and cost than its worth. Do you know of anyone thats done this? optp - cheers mark. I knew you had done the HPC coating to your headers, but didnt know you do the wrap AND heat shield too. How do you find the heat under the bonnet now?
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
im looking at getting the pipe ceramic coated. just been a bit slack about gettin a price..
 i no someone thats looking at turning the throttle body around and i could be the test mule.. nothing done as yet just been talkin about it.. |
||
| Top | |
||
| shav |
|
|||
|
Let us know how this TB move progresses TROY. It sounds good, but I dont know how much work is involved. As far as the ceramic coating is concerned, Im gonna get a price next week.
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| opto |
|
|||
|
Shav the heat is still felt in the heatshield, I wouldnt put my hand on it but the intercooler underside after even the hardest runs only feels lukewarm, which is what I wanted to achieve.
The only thing is I am always on the lookout to try and lower engine bay temps without cutting scoops into the bonnet. I found removing the lining on the bonnet also lowers the residual temp and removing the rubber seals on the leading edge under the bonnet. Ceramic coating helps with the intake pipework but it is only so effective. My next idea is to get an old EF EL rocker cover and fibreglass the top of it using it as a mould. Create a 3 to 4 mm thick fibreglass cover, smooth it off on the topside, get the top plastichromed for looks and fit it to my rocker cover, this would contain a substantial amount of heat released from the rocker cover and if I am right will lower underbonnet temps dramatically. What do you think ?
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| KWIKXR |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: ..But now I need to try and stop heat soak to this intake pipe. The TB reroute sounds interesting, but could be more trouble and cost than its worth. Do you know of anyone thats done this? From memory i think it was "rushed" on these forums who had the throttlebody turned around. Required a bit of cutting and re-welding though, i.e the part where the T/B bolts to the BBM was cut out, and welded to the otherside - not sure if he ended up fitting it and getting it running though as he did sell the car a while back. Don't know what else was involved but you'd probably have to muck around with the throttle cable to get it right.. There also may be the possibility of bonnet clearance issues seeing as the bonnet would start angling down at that point.. I'll see if i can find the thread and post the link.. EDIT: {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
from memory i think turbo ghia also has the throttle body the other way around
|
||
| Top | |
||
| fiftyone |
|
|||
|
theres a stick on aluminum matting that you can from race gear shops that does a great job
_________________ ** For Sale ** {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| shav |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Shav the heat is still felt in the heatshield, I wouldnt put my hand on it but the intercooler underside after even the hardest runs only feels lukewarm, which is what I wanted to achieve. The only thing is I am always on the lookout to try and lower engine bay temps without cutting scoops into the bonnet. I found removing the lining on the bonnet also lowers the residual temp and removing the rubber seals on the leading edge under the bonnet. Ceramic coating helps with the intake pipework but it is only so effective. My next idea is to get an old EF EL rocker cover and fibreglass the top of it using it as a mould. Create a 3 to 4 mm thick fibreglass cover, smooth it off on the topside, get the top plastichromed for looks and fit it to my rocker cover, this would contain a substantial amount of heat released from the rocker cover and if I am right will lower underbonnet temps dramatically. What do you think ? The rocker cover idea sounds very interesting indeed Mark. Considering the good effects of what fibreglass can do for insulation, this could work. I will consider the options you have taken too with breathability in the engine bay as I too dont want to worry about scoops. The ceramic pipework I will still enquire about cost wise to see if its feasible on the wallet. KWIKXR - thanks for the link. Looks interesting, but for me it seems like a lot more mucking around for what its worth.
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 38 guests |
