Well if you know what you to do and have done a few, it is a matter of few minutes to few hours.
If you are new to this, it could take a lifetime and you are still searching for the right combination.
The ONLY and BEST way to learn is from your mistakes. So you have to be pedantic and document everything so you don't repeat the same mistake twice.

What do you mean :"finally how much for a set for an EA!"???

I totally agree with you, it sure beats all other sources of Automotive light out there, even the new LEDs, when it comes to colour and quality of light per unit.

Well, my "current" car is an EA, so what would be the total cost for a similar set.

Have been following this thread since early beginnings, but I dont have the paitence to play phyicist with angles, reflective indicies, beam patterns etc.

well i have just been adding up some of the costs for my EF to be done and it's looking liek around the $1000 to $1200 for a set of sex on lense headlights

Not exactly.
The headlight for the BA posted is a very special one.
The exact cost for a pair of them would be more than most people can afford.
They are one offs.
They got a complete AFS(Active Light System), Dynamic Range Adjustment, Cornering Light System and several other gizmos.
They probably will cost the same as a fully decked Falcon EF or maybe a bit more.
Not for the faint hearted, nor for the boys. Sorry.

ooooohhhh that sounds cool but not really needed, but fun too.

I dont have the paitence to play

I did not want to know your sexual preferences, BUT, thanks for sharing them with all of us…. Hahaha….

At end of the day all that matters to me is : Did you learn anything?
Even if it is a tiny little thing which you had the patience to read and pick up from this thread. My job is done.
I can now go to bed knowing I have helped to remove some of the ignorance in this world about, “getting physical with the Angels, indecent reflections, bean sprouts etc.â€￾.


A kindergarten boy and a girl, were playing naked in the sand on the beach, with their mums watching.
All of a sudden the girl comes running to her mum crying her eyes off.
Her mum asks: What’s wrong my dear?
The girl looked at the boy pointing down there and asked her mum whilst crying: Why don’t I have one of those, Mum?
Her mother gave her a BIG hug and said: Patience my Dear, Patience.


So, maybe it is time to start practising The virtue of Patience?

As the saying goes: Luck stays longer with those who have patience.

OK, back to serious stuff:
As I have already mentioned the BA Headlight, posted above, is a very special and unique project. It is a one off.
Out of reach for most of us.
A basic retro: Includes a pair of either Xenon or Bi-Xenon Projectors, a pair of Ballast and Xenon bulbs and a pair of shrouds/bezels. These are the main parts required for a Standard Retro. Oh, I forgot, Also a bit of brain and a lot of patience is an absolute MUST.
The job can be done by an amateur or a Pro. The parts can be new or used or the best or something that will just do.
Therefore the cost will vary from case to case.
If you are good and can do the job CORRECTLY and PROPERLY, the labour element of you retro will cost you: $0.00.
If you ask a Cowboy who believes he can do anything (from brain surgery to Bank Robbery) it will cost you 4 times of what it would have cost you to give the job to a pro., since it will never work properly and has to be fixed by a pro at end of the day.
You can buy parts on eBay for fraction of the cost of buying from any major Auto Spares outlet.
But then you have to live with the gazillions of problems that goes hand in hand with buying stuff from eBay.
You can find a wrecker for a pair of projectors or you can buy a complete pair of headlights from a New BMW, AUDI, MB, VW…. remove the projectors and try to sell the rest.

BUT, at end of the day, if you have NO IDEA of what you are doing and you did not have the patience to learn the basics of how things work. YOU ARE WASTING TIME MONEY AND EFFORT.

These forums are for people to exchange their knowledge so others can LEARN from it.
To learn you need to have a lot of patience.

The reason for my involvement in this thread is to help with the little knowledge I have about this issue and hope that at least one person gains something from all the points and issues I raise and hopefully that one person is safer on the roads.
Unfortunately I can’t help everyone. I wish I could. But then the reader need to have a bit of interest and some patience to read and learn from it……..

hey mavs. i know this has been covered b4 but theres no way u can have hid's in your hi beam is there?

You could but you should not.

Here is a simple version of what happens:

Initially a HID xenon bulb for Automotive use needs a high voltage pulse for ignition. I.e. a Philips D2S 35W lamp needs a 2 KV for cold start and a whooping 25KV for a hot Arc Discharge.
Then you need a massive take-over current to make the lamp to transit from Glow stage to Arc Discharge Stage.
Special care must be taken for proper Start Up and Operation.
From the moment of turn on you have a stage of ignition before the warm up stage in order to obtain an Arc Discharge.
IF you cut this process short or it is interrupted, both the Ballast but foremost the Xenon bulb is damaged and will burn much sooner than the usual life span of a normally operated HID Xenon bulb which could be in the 5000 or so hours.
A Halogen has normally a life span of approx. 1500 hours.

That is why they invented Bi-Xenon Projectors.
You have a shield inside the projector, between the reflector bowl housing and the lens holder, that cuts off the FULL beam (in this case HI beam) emitted by the HID Xenon bulb through the lens and ONLY allows a specific portion of the light to pass through the lens. This portion would be your Lo beam.
When you turn the Hi beam on, a solenoid opens the shield and allows all the light emitted to pass through the lens.
You will therefore, NEVER have the problem associated with turning on/off a HID xenon bulb anymore. And at the same time you have both Hi and Lo beam functions as usual.

sound slike you still wouldn't be able to 'flash' your highs though. ??

Unfortunately not if you only got an after market HID kit.

AND in most cases you will have another major problem which is when you push down your Hi/Lo lever to turn on constant Hi beam.
Since in most cases, where you got 2 different reflectors (i.e. one H4 and one H7), one for Hi/Lo and the other one as a Hi/Driving light, when you push down your Hi/Lo lever to turn on a constant Hi beam, the power feeding the Lo beam on your Hi/Lo bulb is turned off.
Since the HID kit gets it's power from the wire feeding the Lo filament, were we all connect our kits to.
Unfortunately by pushing down the lever, you just turned that power off.
All you now have is the light from your Hi Driving reflector, which is almost nothing compared to your HID bulb.

To overcome this problem all you need to do is to make a new cable harness using a 30A relay and a couple of 1A diodes per each side.
At least you will have light if you accidentally happen to push the lever down.
This problem does not apply to when you pull the lever up to flash your Hi beam.
The reason is the way the connectors and the wires are done in the column switch assy.

Another thing mavs can you PM me or please explain how to adjust the height correctly in a standard reflector type headlight such as my own?

H1 Hid installation issues!
Ok 1st the H1 globe doesnt quite fit so i might have to drill the hole out a bit.
But the big question is on the H1 there is only 1 pin that plugs into the globe.But the HID kit has 2 leads.so where does the other 1 go.
There is a lead that is plugged into the metal inside the lenses the wire is white with black strip.

Park the car on a level ground facing in a 90° angel towards a wall at a distance of 10 metre from the car.
The headlights (Front of) of the car and the wall should be parallel with each other. Forming a square.

Measure from the ground to the centre of the headlights Lo beam bulb.
On the wall in front of the car, mark this height from ground up.

Measure the distance between the 2 Lo beam bulbs on the car.
Mark the distance between the centre of the Lo beam bulbs on the wall. (A and B)

Draw a line on the wall between A and B or use some electrical tape.

Turn the lights on.
The centre of the beam from each headlight should now be on A and B.
A being the Left side and B being the Right side.

Turn the horizontal and vertical adjustment screws at the back of each headlight and lower both the Right and Left beam pattern 12cm under the horizontal line between A and B on the wall.
The Right hand (Drivers side) beam should also be pointing approx. 10 cm inwards towards the Left.

However, because of the fact that HID xenon bulbs emit a wider and thicker beam pattern than Halogen, you may need to both lower the beam on the Drivers side a bit more and a bit more inward to the left.

I need to see a pic of the connectors and the base before you drill or cut or do anything to it.

By the way is H1 your Lo beam or Hi beam bulb?

H1 has only one male connector for 12V+ feed and the other one which is the earth or negative is sitting as part of the bulb holder at the back of the headlight reflector.
Normally in the case of after market HID kits the bulb and ballast are Plug n Play.
But it is easier to tell you what and how to do once I see the pics.

Here's some long awaited pics:
more coming soon.. i still seem to have a bit of stray light on the passenger side.
Drivers side behind:
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Drivers side:
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Passenger side:
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Paassenger side behind:
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I think the flash destroys the nice white/bluey look