Yeah, it's 95% prep work and 5% spraying.

hi , loks like you also got some shrinkies , these are caused by putting the primer on tooo quickly and not allowing the solvent to dry out between each coat.

the orange peel can be cause the big tip 2mm on your gun,
MAX size for acrylic should be 1.8mm.
ACRYLIC SHOULD be thinned out to 1 ltr paint to 1.5 ltr thinners.
always use premium thinner for the color/topcoats not a general purpose thinner. (you can always add a splash of 2 k ( 2 pack) thinner such as protec r199 which will slow down the drying and increase the flow quality of the paint and reduce any peel.....
too low air pressure can cause peel , and too high can cause dry spray, and regardless of what is says on any labels , a good 6 coats of clearcoat to allow for good rub and buff... also on ya last 2-3 coats thinning the clear 1litre to 2 litres thinners can also help flatten and flow out the clear coat.



mark

Well maybe I was just lucky! A few years back a mate and I painted a few cars back to back in acrylic. We used 2 Iwata W77 guns with 2.0mm nozzles and only ever used general purpose thinners. The results where stunning, no orange peel on any of the cars.

Sixseater
As most of the guys here have already said the trick is in the prep work, once that's right the rest is setting up the paint viscosity and the gun, have a test spray and check the results before continuing. DO spray several clear coats even on solid paints. In later years when you are polishing your car you'll appreciate that you did.

Thanks for the replys guys....

Im at the stage to prime the car....
I would like to ask a few q, mixing ratio for primer with thinners? I was thinknig 50/50?
How many coats of primer? Does each coat need to be sanded down? If yes, with wat grade sand paper? I would like to know after my final coat of primer wat size grade again do i use for sanding?

thanks heaps

Usually 50/50 means 2 part paint one part thinner or reducer. 100% mixing ratio is one part reducer one part paint. best advice you could get is consult a automotive paint supplier for the proper mix ratio. they should be able to help you out with paint mix charts, including stuff like caps, nozzles, air and ambient temperature for the right mix ratio. assuming you have a paint graduated volume/measuring container and mixing stick, the one with volume numbers on them.

As for the previous paint job, you need to dry/wet flat sand that back with 300, 400, 600 and 800 until the orange peels has completely disappeared or even sand the previous paint job right back to the original primer/undercoat. don't jump between grits like from 400 to 800, otherwise it'll take you f**k forever sanding the scratches off from the a*** grit you've used beforehand.

personally I wouldn't worry about priming it again unless it was back to bare metal. if you can get it back to the original undercoat, assuming it's the same type of paint. I'd just spray undercoat/sealer to lock in different types of finishes underneath, then I'd do is spray a guide undercoat over the whole car in another colour then sand that back flat. what it'll do is it'll reveal high and low spots, pin holes and scratches where the sandpaper has reached. plus it'll help to guide the sanding process back to the undercoat underneath.

It's a fool proof process to get the sanding as flat as possible for diy dummies like you and I.

Did a search and came up with this beauty HOW TO. watch and learn.

http://www.ehow.com/video_4431691_sand- ... nting.html

hi guys,

when buffing will one of those autobarn machines be sufficent to use? What material pad is required to add on the buff machine? And lastly after applying cutting compound with the buff machine, would i need to poish the car? If yes, let me know what to use....

thanks heaps guys....

Hi guys,

Started sanding the car (800 then 1200wet) in order to get rid of the orange peel and then i buffed it with cutting compound and then polished it with the results below.



I have sincerely got to thank everybody on this forum for their input and if it wasnt for you guys i wouldnt be sooo happy today.

I knew absolutely nothing about car painting and am so glad that i should or will be able to paint my car knowing it will come up looking just as good as professionals with near to no orange peel. lol

Thanks again, and I will post pics of sections as i get them done...

Enough talking and now for the pics....

Note: I only did a small section of the roof for testing and now you can see for yourself if its come out ok or not.

Hahah, so you colour sanded at the end then?

Looks great mate!

Thats it mate, ended up colour sanding which did the trick.

Thats an awesome backyard job mate, if your whole car turns out like that it will look real nice .

So did you end up using more primer over the orange and clear you first put on after some sanding, then painted again and then sanded again then polished.

Or did you sand out the orange peel with 1200 and then polished it?

Looks the goods . Good to see it worked out...awaiting pictures of the whole car now.

Hi mate,

The roof was painted so i just sanded it back and then i primed it, sanded that back and than applied my colour, (3 coats) and clear over the top.... I than had a bit of orange peel, (dunno why) so than i sanded that back with 800wet than 1200wet until flat, than simply buffed with cutting compound and than polished it. schweet....

will def post pics up once the car is done. Hopefully should be done in a week if all goes well...

Hi guys,

Completed the roof @ about 10pm last night and cannot be happier with the mirror finish..
Absoltely love it and would love to share it with the catalyst's behind it all...lol

Enjoy.