|
| twr7cx |
|
|||
|
How hard is it to do yourself?
I'm thinking about trying. I've painted my bodykit with a mates airless spray gun, came out pretty decent, was thinking about getting an air compressor and spray gun through work and doing the entire car. but i've been told it's not the actual painting that's hard, it's the preperation, what's involved in that? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| twase |
|
|||
|
twr7cx wrote: How hard is it to do yourself?
I'm thinking about trying. I've painted my bodykit with a mates airless spray gun, came out pretty decent, was thinking about getting an air compressor and spray gun through work and doing the entire car. but i've been told it's not the actual painting that's hard, it's the preperation, what's involved in that? Theres a work in progress document here. http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10867 Cheers TW.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| madmax |
|
|||
|
You need a decent compressor of at least 10CFM and a quality high pressure gun.
Doing it part time, it took me and a mate 4 weeks to do a full respray on a Gemini, (inside and out) & 6 weeks on his HZ. Preparation = dent repairs, lots of sanding, rust repairs, lots of sanding, priming, lots of sanding, repainting top coat, and clear coat if a metallic. Have fun, we did, and both cars looked professionally done afterwards.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fordzatmyplace |
|
||
|
madmax wrote: You need a decent compressor of at least 10CFM and a quality high pressure gun.
Doing it part time, it took me and a mate 4 weeks to do a full respray on a Gemini, (inside and out) & 6 weeks on his HZ. Preparation = dent repairs, lots of sanding, rust repairs, lots of sanding, priming, lots of sanding, repainting top coat, and clear coat if a metallic. Have fun, we did, and both cars looked professionally done afterwards. yeah, but did you do it in two pack?
_________________ ^^^ What He Said
|
||
| Top | |
||
| madmax |
|
|||
|
Without a booth I would bother with 2 pack, takes too long to dry and leaves the freshly painted surface susceptable to dust/defects etc
Yes I realise 2 pack is a better paint, but we managed to get a great finish, (with a lot of effort) out of acrylic.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| twr7cx |
|
|||
|
Nice, cheers for the replies. I've got 3 months off this Christmas so plenty of time to give this a crack!
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| madmax |
|
|||
|
Here some Pic of the Gemini we did.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aranthi |
|
|||
|
godo looking paintjob
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Umineko |
|
||
|
As a professional painter I just want to dispell a couple of points, first 2K paints do dry reasonably quickly, usually touch dry with in a couple of hours when sprayed in room temperature 20-25C depending on film thickness, the big plus though is because they are chemicaly hardened, they are virtually rock hard within 24 hours. If you can keep the dust and admiring fingers off the work for a couple of hours you should be OK. The main reason it's not recomended for home use is the dangerous nature of the chemicals it contains (organic isocyanates etc) which are highly toxic, on the plus side they are far more resistant to damage and chemical marking than acrylics and deliver a far higher gloss level.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Amber |
|
|||
|
Like anyting really...
A piece of piss if you know how, tough as nails if you don't.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| madmax |
|
|||
|
Umineko wrote: As a professional painter I just want to dispell a couple of points, first 2K paints do dry reasonably quickly, usually touch dry with in a couple of hours when sprayed in room temperature 20-25C depending on film thickness, the big plus though is because they are chemicaly hardened, they are virtually rock hard within 24 hours. If you can keep the dust and admiring fingers off the work for a couple of hours you should be OK. The main reason it's not recomended for home use is the dangerous nature of the chemicals it contains (organic isocyanates etc) which are highly toxic, on the plus side they are far more resistant to damage and chemical marking than acrylics and deliver a far higher gloss level.
I agree that 2 pack paint is a far better paint, however as you have said the problem is keeping dust away in a backyard garage for 2 hours is not an easy job. IMO no booth - no 2 pack. Also the correct masks will protect the user from the poisons.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Umineko |
|
||
|
madmax wrote: Umineko wrote: As a professional painter I just want to dispell a couple of points, first 2K paints do dry reasonably quickly, usually touch dry with in a couple of hours when sprayed in room temperature 20-25C depending on film thickness, the big plus though is because they are chemicaly hardened, they are virtually rock hard within 24 hours. If you can keep the dust and admiring fingers off the work for a couple of hours you should be OK. The main reason it's not recomended for home use is the dangerous nature of the chemicals it contains (organic isocyanates etc) which are highly toxic, on the plus side they are far more resistant to damage and chemical marking than acrylics and deliver a far higher gloss level. I agree that 2 pack paint is a far better paint, however as you have said the problem is keeping dust away in a backyard garage for 2 hours is not an easy job. IMO no booth - no 2 pack. Also the correct masks will protect the user from the poisons. no argument here, my point was that it can be done if there is no alternative. A booth is by far and away the prefered option not just from the point of view of getting the best finish but also from an environmental perspective, while masks will keep the nasties away from the painter they do nothing to prevent toxic clouds from invading the neighbourhood. Spraying 2K is a lot more difficult than acrylics (the stuff will run like a b**ch if you give it half a chance) it's best left to those with the equipment and knowledge to do the job properly. it can be done in the garage but it's not recomended. |
||
| Top | |
||
| NFGhia |
|
|||
|
I'll chip in my 2cents worth, hehe.
I've sprayed a few cars in the garage at home and used acrylics, I agree if ya want a showroom shine then 2-pack in a booth is the way to go. But using acrylics is easier at home and with a good cut, buff and polish it looks pretty damn good. Of course the finish is only as good as the prep and thats where all the hard work is at or I should say the elbow grease. If your trying this for the first time then I'd suggest getting a book on DIY bodywork (one with lots of nice pics) then practice, practice, practice. Don't make your pride and joy your first attempt, get a cheap old s**t or some panels to play with first. 
_________________ The TORQUE Monster project begins!
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| sickd |
|
|||
|
me and my dad did my xd in burgundy from a 89 prelude came up like glass looked really good for 3 years i looked after it but the sun just f**k it acrylic does not last unless you prepared to wax it every week in summer and try stay away from red and burgundy cos the sun really f**k it
trick is to do a tone of clear coats dads friend did a hq and it was unreal he did bout 8 coats of clear
_________________ BA XR8 BOSS 260
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| veeate |
|
|||
|
yep...ill agree with sickd.....i painted my Valiant, and all i can say is make sure the prep work is top notch....if you can feel an imperfection with your hand, the paint will show it up ten times as much...just make sure the body, both before & after primer is sanded back with a 2000 wet & dry so its like glass before the colour is applied.....if your using acrylic (metallic or not) use a clear coat & put a s**t load on...we done about 5 coats of clear on the Val...it lets you buff the s**t out of it so its like a mirror finish....it also means you can give it a good half-dozen cuts before you start removing any colour......
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests |
