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blackjack_original |
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Posts: 3516 Joined: 8th Nov 2004 |
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Last edited by blackjack_original on Fri Jun 06, 2014 2:54 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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voids |
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maybe try to get the old paint off with a sand blaster
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twase |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ok, so i got me a front bumper for the EF... i'm supposed t paint it polynesian green, it is red atm, because it's such a nice color i thought i better ask so i can get it right.
Here's a pic of my new bumper and my old bumper... Basically, my plan of attack is this. 1) Sand all the little cracks and scratches with something like a 60 or an 80 grit paper. Than go on tho 120, than 300 than 600 or 800 and than finally 1200. But sand the whole bumper with 1200, not just the scratches. The reason i was thinking of doing it like that, is so i don't have to sand all the paint off, just spray plastick primer over the whole thing than. Dunno how good this idea is, so i'm asnking. Maybe i should sand all the paint off? Or use some paint stripper on it, and than sand it alll with 1200 before applying the plastick primer? Should i maybe go to 2000 as well? 2)Assuming i sanded it all properly, this is where i apply the primer. do i do this very carefully? As in, spray a thin coat, wait 10 mins, go over it again, and so forth untill i'm happy with the result? 3)Assuming i did this part right, and my primer is now dry, (or semi dry, more like light touch dry, i'm not quite clear on what it needs to be) i have no primer beads or running stains, and i'm about to apply the paint, do i sand it again with something like 1200 or 2000... or do i just get to slowly layering the coats of paint over the primer... spray a thin coat, wait 10 minuttes, spray another thin coat and so forth untill i get a nice even finish? 4)Finally, assuming i put on 6 or 7 coats of paint, and my finish is all nice, and the paint is dry, do i need to spray on clear coat?... and yup, you guessed it.... do i need to sand the paint with something like 1200 or 2000 before applying the coats of clear, or is it just keep on spraying kinda deal? 5)and finally, i will be spraying the paint and the primer and the clear coat from a can... I have a spray gun and the compressor but they are not very reliable and i'm avoiding them, so i'm getting the paint guys to put the paint in cans and pressurise them.... is there something i need to add to my polynesian green paint in the cans so the paint doesn't crack should the bumper bend afterwards for his reason or that, this i need to know so i can tell them to put it in the cans right away with the paint.... So.. thoughts comments, criticisms, i'll take all the help i can get... NB, i numbered each step i plan to do, so if i'm doing something wrong in just that one step, it wil be easier to point out and explain. P.S. i also have to paint a bit on the hood, about 5 square cm, i assume i pretty much follow the same procedure as the bumper, with the exception of using normall metal primer of course.. the trick with this is that i have to match the paint to the rest of the hood... any hints or tips for that? thanks for all your help, in advance... i only have a basic idea of what i am doing, if it was my other car, i wouldn't care about making mistakes, but for this i wanna make sure i get it perfect. Just sprayed mine, the results are fine considering a $30 supercheap gun. Don't sand the paint of, this is the basis for the new paint to stick on. Don't sand the bumper with a*** grit paper and use wet and dry, 240 minimum best done with 400 up if you are not using body filler then even 400 is to a***. After the sand make sure you use a grease and wax remover such as prepsol otherwise you might get peeling later on. I would recommend using your spray gear rather than a spray can, at the primer stage just about anything that applies a even coat will do but I would not trust the cans from supercheap ..... Make sure even at the primer stage that you have a water trap in the line and the line to the gun goes up over a fence to help with water removal. After the first primer coat, fill the small scrapes and marks with stop putty. Make sure you get a good quality putty. Don't over fill the marks. Sand back using a sanding block and finish with a rub down with prepsol.Repeat the prime and fill untill happy. You should end up with the primer coat sanded ready for the top coats. I would not use pressure packs for your top coat, in particular if it is a metalic finish, you would be better of taking the primed bumper to a beater and getting them to finish the job. Cheers TW.
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DMac |
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Age: 38 Posts: 1372 Joined: 7th Nov 2004 Ride: Lancer Coupe Location: Southeastern suburbs, Melbourne |
{USERNAME} wrote: Just sprayed mine, the results are fine considering a $30 supercheap gun. TW.
Do you mean, hang you need a compressor dont you. Cheers |
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XRFan101 |
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Well i would make sure its nice and clean first, give it a good scrubbing so when you go to spray it again the paint wont look dodgy when its dry.
Fill in the scratches with a good putty as it was said b4, let it dry and then sand it back so its all an even surface again. Prep the bumper for spraying by applying a primer, also make sure its a good one as you dont want the paint peeling off. Then for best results get a air commpresser and spray it with the pressure gun, that way the paint will be alot more even and it will look nicer Do a few coats depending on how well the colour turns out the first time, eg it might be too light and wont match the rest of the car And yeah make sure you always give it pleanty of drying time. Im no spray painter but basically thats the general idea i believe Good luck dude
_________________ -BF MKII XR6 Turbo in EGO- |
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twase |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Just sprayed mine, the results are fine considering a $30 supercheap gun. TW. Do you mean, hang you need a compressor dont you. Cheers Yes you need an air compressor as well, I used a small 40CF one from KMART, as long as there is a oil remover/ filter and water trap/ regulator you will be fine. The Spray gun was purchased as the one that comes in the kits don't like spraying at any angle other than square without fear of paint dripping from the gun onto your work. Cheers TW.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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DMac |
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Age: 38 Posts: 1372 Joined: 7th Nov 2004 Ride: Lancer Coupe Location: Southeastern suburbs, Melbourne |
yeah them $99 ones are great. Well worth the investment.
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twase |
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{USERNAME} wrote: 4)Finally, assuming i put on 6 or 7 coats of paint, and my finish is all nice, and the paint is dry, do i need to spray on clear coat?... and yup, you guessed it.... do i need to sand the paint with something like 1200 or 2000 before applying the coats of clear, or is it just keep on spraying kinda deal?
Clear coat is essential to match the finish on the rest of the body. Also you need to sand, clean and dry between each coat. remember the finish is only as good as the preparation work, although paint will mask a few imperfections don't count on it. The final buff on the last coat will bring up the gloss and also bring out the blemishes. Cheers TW.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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blackjack_original |
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Posts: 3516 Joined: 8th Nov 2004 |
[self-deleted]
Last edited by blackjack_original on Fri Jun 06, 2014 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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twase |
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If you are using Spot putty, it recommends a primer coat first, in this case its going on plastic so I am not sure it matters. Thats prety well it, metalic needs to be laid down in a particular way (ie one direction only and a complete sweep, not a partial one) otherwise it will look like a disaster, it would pay to practice on something first, so while you are sparying primer, prime up your test piece as well.
Cheers TW.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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madmax |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Thanks.... so ok new plan of attack than, how about this.
First sand all with a 320... to bugger off the scratches i have, than 800, than 1200.... than rub with the grease remover than bog up the deep scratches... than again sand the bog to get it all nice and even and flush with the bumper, rub down, than spray with a plastick primer, than sand with 1200, rub down again, than spray with a slighlty thicker normall filler primer, again sand with 1200, and rub down, than spray a thin coat of paint, sand, rub down... and so forth for a few coats untill i get the depth of color i want... than sand rub down, clear coat... and polish and buff... That it in a nut shell? If your not removing the old paint you do not need plastic primer, paint will stick to paint. 400 grit wet and dry is all you need before priming the bar. Once primer is applied, then sand down with 800, then 1200 if you want to go that far. Paint will require flexaid added to it, this will make the paint coats more flexable and less likely to crack when the bar moves. There is no need to sand the top coat down between coats, and never the top coat on a metallic paint. A good cover of clear can be lightly sanded to remove "orange peel effect" This will make cutting and polishing easier.
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blackjack_original |
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Posts: 3516 Joined: 8th Nov 2004 |
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Last edited by blackjack_original on Fri Jun 06, 2014 2:56 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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twase |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ahh, but i have some deepish scratches where there is no paint, so if i don't prime that paint won't stick in those parts.
i'm a bit confused now. so what you're saying is, when i apply my final coat of primer, i sand it before applying paint... and than i DON'T sand after applying each coat of paint And than i DON'T sand before applying clearcoat, but i DO sand the clearcoat lightly(still meaning 1200 or 2000) when dry, beofre polishing? My experience from years ago with acrylic is that unless you have very good equipment and are good at application then you need to sand between each coat. The exception may be the final color coat if metalic. 2PAK and enamel may be a different story where you don't sand at all between coats. MADMAX may be able to give you a more recent experience with current painting trends. Cheers TW.
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madmax |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ahh, but i have some deepish scratches where there is no paint, so if i don't prime that paint won't stick in those parts.
i'm a bit confused now. so what you're saying is, when i apply my final coat of primer, i sand it before applying paint... and than i DON'T sand after applying each coat of paint And than i DON'T sand before applying clearcoat, but i DO sand the clearcoat lightly(still meaning 1200 or 2000) when dry, beofre polishing? Use plastic primer on any bare plastic parts. Sand down the final coat of primer, before applying top coat. I said you don't have to sand between top coats, you can if you like, or if the finish of the previous coat is not good. If you need to rub it back you will need to allow the coat to thoroughly dry. Normally between each top coat the paint doesn't need to be completely dry, just touch dry. Therefore too soft to rub back. If you sand the final top coat on a metallic paint, you will effect the colour and ruin the finish, it will then require another coat. Don't forget the flexaid. Sand the clear lightly 1500-2000 once paint is thoroughly dry, if the finish on the clear is rough "orange peel effect" then cut back with cutting compound, then polish.
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blackjack_original |
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Posts: 3516 Joined: 8th Nov 2004 |
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Last edited by blackjack_original on Fri Jun 06, 2014 2:56 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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