I have been searching for info on this since buying a wrecked fairmont ghia to get the leather seats.

I am fitting the 8-way memory seat into a base model BA futura.

All the info i found involved people fitting the right wiring harnesses and extra bits to get the memory to work, and as such had no issues with the seats working.

I did not want to go to that sort of effort. All I really wanted was the leather, but if the 8-way adjustment could be made to work with little effort I would do it. Other wise I was going to disassemble the seat and fit the leather to base model frame

I had a light bulb moment the other day. I needed to know what wiring was needed just for the adjusters. the Futura seat has one 4 pin plug to supply power. That plug is also used on the 8-way seat with 2 others. So I was at least 1/3 the way there.

The light bulb was, put the seat back in the BF wreck and plug on only the 4 pin plug and see what happens. Nothing happened
Next plug in the harness is a 10 pin plug, so I plug that in and ALL of the adjusters came to life. The third plug is not needed at all.

According the BA manual, the only pins that are constant are pin 6 'electronics ground' and pin 2 'ignition- greater then 10volts with key on'
the other shouldn't be needed.

So the next step was cut the other wires in the BF and see what happens

Today I had the chance to back probe the 10 pin plug. I then cut the wiring that I though I shouldn't need and only left pin 2 and 6, ALL of the seat adjustment still worked.

The get the 8-way to work with out the memory functions, you need to plug in the 4 pin connector. The 4 pin connector is used on ALL of the powered seats.
You then need the 10 pin connector, Here you need to supply power to pin 2 and earth to pin 6.



Air bags.
My fairmont wreck was optioned with side airbags. I have not plugged these in, the cars with out the side airbag option still have the wiring in place and there is a yellow plug on the seat base with a resistor across the pins. I removed these from the original seats and fitted them to the new seats and plug the them in.

From what I have been able to find, the airbag module is different for side airbags. I don't want to risk my safety or damaged the leather seats by plugging the side air bags in and accidentally setting them off. Because that would be both painful and expensive. it would also suck balls.

Do you intend to set up the Mirror dip function as well ??

To do that requires the full wiring harness swap with all the other associated parts.

I put the seat in today and it works as I thought it would.

I put the airbag simulator from my Futura seat on to the new seat then cable tied the airbag wiring under the seat.

Cut the two wires from the 10 pin pug on the seat that needed + and -, then spliced them in to the + and - wires from the 4 plug. Then removed the un-needed plugs from the holder on the side of the seat and cable tied them under the seat.
Then just plug in the seat belt pre-tensioner and plug in the airbag simulator.

wish i could of figured this out a few years ago tickford6. i had a ba xt mk2 that i upgraded to futura looms for rear power windows, then came across a fairmont ghia interior. in the end i just swapped the bases over, and ran the side airbags the same as you. i tried plugging in the side airbags but got a warning light on the cluster. i also changed out the side piece of the seat with the switches for memory function. i managed to offload the ghia seat bases, button shroud piece from the drivers seat, and the ghia drivers door wiring with mirror memory controller for about 50% of my interior upgrade cost....

i also had the matching door trims with courtesy lights, so i put them on and ran a + and a - wire from the back of the light, into the door loom, through the bendy bit between the door and cabin, and had it coming out behind the kick panel. then i ran the passenger wires over to the drivers side wires and joined up, then ran them to the roof courtesty light wires in the drivers a pillar and spliced in. voila, fairmont ghia leather door trims with working courtesy lights.

With the side airbags. The resistance through the airbag is different to the simulator. Also the controller is different for side airbag cars. I believe all the wiring is inplace and when you option side bags, they fit the correct seats and change over the controller.

One thing that slipped my mind this time was that although the airbag did not deploy in the crash that doesn't doesn't mean the belt pre-tensioner didn't. I have to pull the seat back out and swap the pre-tensioner over with the one from my old seat.
A working pre-tensioner will show about 2.5 2.7 ohms in the live data, a fired one will show about 25 ohms. Minor set back.

easy to tell if it needs replacing before you take the seat out. when the pre tensioner goes off, it pulls a cable connected to the seatbelt holding you in place. when this happens the plastic tubing at the bottom of the seat belt stalk (the ribbed stuff under the buckle) gets pulled together and bunches up. normally it should look nice and uniform, after firing it looks like its too long and been wedged in place forming bunches. had this problem when fitting a xr interior to a ba xt. the spent pre tensioner set off a warning light on the dash, which was tracked down to the pre tensioner unit having been fired. from memory its one bolt and a wiring plug to change but seat needs to be out...

Yeah sorted it this afternoon.

I just never even looked at it when putting it in and it showed the light on the dash when I turned the car on.
I was at work so it wasn't much time to plug one of the scan tools in and check the fault.
The code said it all, I checked the live data out of curiosity. It's always handy to log these things in the far left corner of the brain for future use... Helps to be able to spot an issue in the live data even if it's not far enough out of spec to bring up a fault code.

Is the power to pin 2 and ground to pin 6 on 10 pin connector on a 6 way system the same or different

I'll probably get hammered for dredging up old threads but...

Hats off to you sir (tickford_6), thanks so much for putting that up. I did the conversion myself this weekend.

A couple of notes for new players doing this conversion -

Dont use the pin numbers printed on the back of the seat plug (10pin). You need to count from the top left when looking at the female end (looking at the pins).

For clarity, Pin 2 is red/blue (power), and pin 6 is black/orange (ground).

Cheers
Shannon

i cheated & looked at the SZ terri wiring. was able to workout from that as too what wires were needed as the SZ is a lot simpler. i now have it setup as a tester for my seats [i can test 4way, 6way & 8way] with SZ using green/black for '+' & black/blue for '-'. the BA Fairylane is red/green for '+' & black/blue for '-'. i'm talking about the male plug NOT the female.


Cheers