Autel MD802 I think it is... Md is maxi diag I think... I got the all systems version... There is a lower one which only lets you do 4 modules... Make sure that if you import one like I did, that it comes set up for Australian Ford and Holden... Mine was a little over 300 I think... Been very handy so far... Only thing it won't do that the flash unit will is program keys...

Cheers,
Tim

Thanks Tim,

Would be nice to get one, can come in handy.

Cheers

Peter

This is the seller I purchased off...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Autel-MaxiEl ... 23497c45d8

Have done various AU thru BF models... Izusu Dmax... Holden Astra... Holden VT Commodore... Mitsubishi Pajero... Has worked on all these thus far...

Cheers,
Tim

Thanks Tim.

I've uploaded to youtube the noise from the engine before and after engaging aircon button.

I've noticed a distinct noise from the compressor, don't know if its lack of lube as in bearings or worn clutch bearing.

With respect to aircon tubes, the large one feels hot and the smaller one where the inline filter sits gets ice cold. When aircon button is disengaged the ice on the smaller tube disappears.

I assume that's normal.

Here are the youtube links if you like to check.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uagZfCB ... e=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAnIzUP ... e=youtu.be

Cheers, Peter

Hi everyone,

I managed to run a FORScan diagnostic test on the AUII and it came back with these results.

I'm not a technical person just reporting what I've read.

First DTC is P0325 / Module PCM - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1)
Code: P0325
Module: PCM
Explanation: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1)
Alternative Explanation: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bnk 1)

Detailed Explanation: The knock sensor detects vibrations upon increase and decrease in engine rpm. The knock sensor generates a voltage based on this vibration. Should this voltage go outside a calibrated level a DTC will set.

Possible Causes:
Knock sensor circuit short to GND
Knock sensor circuit short to PWR
Knock sensor circuit open
Damaged knock sensor
Damaged PCM

Diagnostic Aides: A knock sensor voltage generates greater than 0.5v with the key ON and engine OFF indicates a hard fault.


Question....Where is this knock sensor located?


*********************************************************************************
Aircon
Code: P0534
Module:PCM
Explanation: A/C Refrigerant Charge Loss
Alternative Explanation: Low A/Cycling Period
Detailed Explanation: Indicates frequent A/C compressor clutch cycling.

Possible Causes:
Mechanical A/C system concerns (such as low refrigerant charge, damaged A/C cycling switch)
Intermittent open between the cycling pressure switch and the PCM
Intermittent open in IGN RUN circuit to cycling switch (if applicable)

Diagnostic Aides:
An intermittent open circuit, although possible , is unlikely
This test was designed to protect the transmission. In some strategies, the PCM will unlock the torque converter during A/C clutch engagement. If a concern is present that results in frequent A/C clutch cycling, damage could occur if the torque converter was cycled at these intervals. This test will detect this condition, set the DTC and prevent the torque converter from excessive cycling.

END OF DIAGNOSTIC TEST REPORT.

Question..Could this be related to that large sensor in the A/C line which I should disconnect and test to see if that's the culprit?

Cheers,
Peter

Knock Sensor is located under the BBM at approx no5 intake port.

SWC,

Thanks for the location of Knock Sensor, excuse my ignorance what does BBM stand for?

I've taken the connector off that large sensor switch on the A/C line, it appears I've got a more cooler air inside the cabin, and yes the second fan switches on immediately and bit noisy under the circumstances.

I'll replace that big sensor as soon as I can find out the name of it, I don't know if its the pressure sensor or temp sensor, it's the largest of the two.

Where would the PCM be located?

********************************************************************************
Another development five minutes ago.

I've noticed a spark jumping from No2 ignition lead, I assume its damaged. All the leads are Eagle brand, blue silicon, 8.0mm. Could explain the slight rough idle.

Would it be better to replace all the ignition leads at the same time or can I get away with replacing the damaged lead?

Thanks in advance.

BBM = Broad Band Manifold (intake manifold).

PCM is located behind the Passenger side kick panel (same location as the e series)

You can just replace 1 plug lead if you wish, but if one is stuffed it may be possible that the rest are on the way out. When it is dark, open the bonnet and start the car, you will easily see any sparking from leads.

SWC,

Thanks for the clarification.

I've refitted the wire to that large sensor on the A/C line.

After reading FORScan Error Codes, Looks like loss of gas, must be a leak somewhere, will do a leak check and regas.

Hopefully a simple leak.

I'm going to have the other A/C compressor refurbished with new seals and bearings in case the other A/C compressor is cactus.

Cheers

Update.

After replacing ignition coil, spark plugs and ignition leads, removed knock sensor, cleaned and reconnect same.

Switched A/C on , ran Forscan, no error codes reported.

All seems ok, still get misting from the air vents, suspected low refrigerant.

even after mine was re gassed I still get the mist from the vents

TROYMAN,
Is that "mist" normal as such, just never experienced it when first used about 3 years ago, sometime last year there was some misting on the odd occasion, Never had any further misting until early this year.

I disconnected the wires to the large sensor on the A/C Line, had noticed it was a bit cooler in the cabin with heavy fan noise (from bypassing). Fan noise was too great so I reconnected the plug wires.

Still have not received any error codes as yet. I should disconnect the battery lead overnight and reconnect in the morning and do another scan after the reset.

Don't know if this would be worthwhile exercise or just let it be.