so it begins - Dual Zone Luxury!

Man, getting the Harness swapped out once the dash was out put me WAY behind schedule. There are some absolute mongrel tight spots to watch out for.

Wasn't real impressed with the forward-facing GND on the LH side. There's absolutely no way of getting that out without removing the LHS Air Register, and half the screws for the plastic behind it, and deforming the plastic so as to just barely squeeze a ratchet extension down there.

Then the section that wraps around the ICC - holy shamoly! I had to undo half the lower dash covering plastic out of the way just to pop that section out. I've got scratches and chunks out of my hand all over the place.

And that safety plastic at the base of the steering column - just enough to stop you getting any tools on it, but weak and crapy enough so that it breaks if you try to undo the opposite side.

I have to mention that the BF loom appears to have different locating clips under the glovebox as I can't get anything to line up. There were some clips I salvaged from the terri sacrificial loom that I'll wrap on and hold the loom in place.

Long way to go yet, but at least now I'm started on assembly instead of disassembly....

<edit - added some pics during the peak of the action....>


Lukeyson

 

 

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Last edited by Lukeyson on Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Changing the HVAC over from a Single Zone shaft to two Dual Zone Half Shafts can't be done unless the dashboard is out.

You HAVE to crack open the HVAC to stand any chance of sliding out the single shaft and sliding in the new ones. The W/S manual is just plain bunk in this regard.

I can see that the INTENTION is to swing the vanes into the full-cold position where there are two little plastic locks to try and hold the edges of the vanes in place. But the shaft requires that much force to put in and out that the vanes bend and pop out of those catches.

Aside from this, there's no easy way to route the drivers side actuator sub harness without some strong wire to pull-through the cavity. The cavity is not straight through, and with the dash on there's no way to get a wire up there.

I'll put some photo's up when I'm done. But for mr bean in particular, who has done the ICC change but not the HVAC changes, this bit of news is not good.

Also, Re: the old dash harness, I ended up finding the Sunload Sensor connector! It was tucked up and looped back on itself in the gap between the dash and the firewall. So, dare I say it, the harness with Premium Audio Prep might have been suitable for DZ after all. It would just be down to the lines for the ambient temp sensor on the LHS of the car.

As it was I had done some modifications to the Courtesy Light connector behind the fuse box, and the cig lighter illumination in the trinket tray, and wanted the BF modifications for the Navi Amp and Navi lines, so i still needed to change, but it's a good thing to know if someone else is looking at doing it.



Lukeyson

Awe mate.

Had some moments and did some dumb things.

Thought I had everything hooked back up and decided I'd do a 'smoke test' and hooked up the battery.

First thing that happened - the horn came on hard and the lights came on. And I thought right away 'crap, maybe the BF Harness isn't supposed to work in a BA and I have to pull the whole bastard out again.'

So with due diligence I found that the kids had turned on the headlights. Mongrels. Then on checking the wheel I found that the horn looked stuck down - somehow the harness at the back of the airbag got in the way.

Power back on again, all calm.

So I went ot start it - dead silence. And the ICC was saying 'Invalid Security Code'. I started to spin out a bit.

But then I realised, stupidly, that I didn't have the BEM plugged in. And that's when I wanted to kick myself.

4 connectors later (plus a token Video Input plug) and I tried again - and lucky me, but she kicked over and all was good.

So there you go, a BF2 loom without DSC works OK in a BA.

Now to finish off all my other crapola - rear footwell lights (I plugged in the lense and light and ran a lead to one of the front footwell lights ready to go), finish the relocation of the Video Converter for the Reverse Camera (moved from under the drivers seat to behind the left-knee kick panel), painting the rear aicon outlet register silver (and the rear door handle inserts) and generally sorting out any other stuff (like wiping away my finger marks from the roof lining!

For the record, I checked the wiring harness for the 'Turn Lamp' lines. While the Dash Harness has the lines to connector C-158 in the right footwell kick panel, the harness down the RHS of the engine bay that hooks up at that point doesn't. Interesting.


Lukeyson

My car! XR6T 9/03

I have seen a facia with dual zone ACC with out a screen and the works by the looks of it. I have pulled my current ICC out which has Premuim sound but povo pack MCC but also has the Blue BEM, can someone advise me if i need a new Bem, him to do the conversion. All i will have really is ICC with dual zone but have to use the guts on my current ICC.
I need:
LH Mirror
sun sensor
wire harness???

Please help so i can work out the costs

You're talking about that butchered ICC on eBay aren't you.

I have no expertise or experience of what you'd need there. You do that at your own risk I'm afraid.

We'd be mighty interested and impressed if you can put your own Screen and CD Stacker in it and get it to work.

To get Dual Zone working though, you'd need everything else listed in this thread. Have a good read.


Lukeyson

Dual-Zone ICC is in and working.

We sniffed a HIM Reprogram (SZ - No A/C, SZ - A/C and DZ) and it all looks too simple.

The Black BEM didn't appear to work. The tool we had couldn't change the operation of the BEM, and this BEM seemed to not transmit either the Outside Temp or the Passengers/Drivers Sunload (HIM kept flashing up DTC's that it wasn't getting any of the DZ messages). Maybe the Ford tool can change the BEM operation, but we couldn't.

So we swapped in the Cream BEM with Green Label that FTG provided.

Then we did the PATS clear to train the BEM to my two keys, and did a Parameter Reset to get all modules to recognise one another with the new key codes.

And done. ICC can now do DZ Climate Control and works a treat.

And to top it off, we sniffed the whole lot, and while we haven't tried it yet, there's a very very high chance that we'd be able to do this same function on any BA/SX using an ELM327 or other CAN capable scantool.

There are, however, a few things outstanding.

(1) We didn't have access to the Radio Module Security Reprogram - so no Radio at the moment. The Radio is locked to the codes from the PCM that seem to be broadcast in message 6F6.

(2) We also didn't have access to the CTS Calibration Factor Reprogram. This doesn't appear to have affected anything at the moment. Maybe I'll find out what's missing later.

(3) The new BEM was from a car with Memory Seats, so the BEM is registering an error that the lines to the seat Memory Module are open circuit. I think I'll just live with that! (Maybe I can make use of that later on....)

(4) Auto-Lights-On is working, but Auto-Lights-Off is not. And when the car is off with lights on the IC chimes. I'm hoping I can turn this off.


One last thing - I was prepared for the DZ ICC to have white lights. My wife's terri has white lights in it. I didn't know to expect anything else.

But the unit FTG shipped to me was from a BA GTP, and therefore had the Blue Lights in it to match the dash. That was just the icing on the cake! A big thanks to FTG for that bit, it brought a big smile to my face when I first turned it on.


Lukeyson

with the auto lights u probably need to reset the auto lights on and off calibration factor.
Dont worry about the memory seat codes, thats fairly standard issue on any MKII BA

Hi Lukey, good to hear that everything is going so smoothly. I've got to get my butt into gear and do mine soon. Just a quick question about the ELM327 scan tool you are using - I've been looking at Scantool's ElmScan 5, but haven't decided yet on USB or Bluetooth version. Both are quite affordable, with a good range of both free and commercial software available.

Seen a few different brands using the ELM327 chip - what brand is your scan tool. And what software have you been using that allows you to reset PATS. Be interested to hear about your scanning 'weapon of choice' and anything interesting you have learnt. Also, what are you interfacing with, a PC or maybe even a Palm.

In the words of Mark Twain, am 'waiting with bated breath' for your reply.

Wow, questions.

(1) OBDAllInOne - but any ELM327 based scantool, or any other CAN capable tool should be fine. Mine is a Serial unit. Check the 'scantool fun' thread. I also now have a Drewtech Mongoose J2534 scantool that I'm about to start using

(2) Software to reset PATS? Hyperterm - a sound understanding of the ELM command set, and of what the different commands do (SAE J2190). Plus a bit of help from a place called the Internet....

(3) My Work Notebook. Just changing over from a WIndows XP unit to a Windows Vista 64 unit, and suddenly I am struggling to get things working (Vista has no Hyperterm, and REQUIRES signed drivers.) So my solution has been to make use of my copy of VMWare Workstation 6, run XP in a virtual session, pass USB ports into that session so I can run a ISB Serial.

The trick to this is to access a tool that already knows the Factory commands - like the WDS or IDS/PDS or a 3rd Party tool that has knowledge of Ford Enhanced programming modes.


Lukeyson

Luke, thanks for directing me to the 'scantool fun' thread - I have been glued to the screen for the last 4 hours reading all that plus the links that go off elsewhere, then researching more product web-sites. Wow, are my eyes tired (nothing to do with finishing work at 4am then only getting about 3 hours sleep!). Think I have found an interesting scan tool and software package - will read some more tomorrow and if newsworthy, will post up in your 'scantool fun' thread.

Steve...

Today is the day that I can finally say - it is done.

The boys at my local Ford dealer did the CTS Recalibration and the Radio Security Program - and we're 100% working.

And I discovered just afterwards that the DZ ICC that FTG shipped me still had a CD in slot #2! Nice. I'm not much into R&B Hip Hop, but it was a change from the norm.

I have in my mits the sniff capture of both operations - and they both look ridiculously simple. Any further discussion on this bit will be in the scantool fun thread.

I know I promised some posts back to do pics of the 'Dash Out' operation, and I still intend to do that. And some pics of the finished product might be in order too.



So now, does anyone have any Fairmont Ghia mirrors so I can move onto the next nut-bag project?


Lukeyson

Re: Auto Lights Off.

Everything is OK. I just didn't understand it right.

When I meant they weren't shutting off, I was referring to when I turned the car off, got out, and locked it with the keyfob. On our Terri, the lights go out right away. On the XR, the lights go out after some interval - like 10 seconds or something.

And now that I'veseen my mate's BF XR do the same thing, I'm OK with that.

So there must be a way to change the post-lock behaviour of auto-lights-off. If anywone knows what that is - and if it's an owner-changeable option or a WDS only option - I'd be interested in knowing where it's written down.


Lukeyson

FYI, there are 3 timer settings in the BEM that I now know how to change using an ELM, for anyone that is interested:

(1) Ignition Off
(2) Door Open
(3) Car Locked.


On my car, (1) is set to 120 secs. So the lights will turn off automatically after that. For (2) It's set to 60 secs, and (3) is set to 10. My wifes SX Territory Ghia is set to 0 for (3) which is why I was confused, but a mates BF XR6T has (3) set to 10 as well.

So there you go.


Lukeyson

So what's the codes to change them?