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xpression |
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the 10 minutes is purely a security time thing, to ensure that u really do ahve access to the car. its so i cant take the WDS home from work with a key and a lock assembly, smash the steering lock, plug in the new lock assembly and program it in 30 seconds flat..oh also BF Falcons need a code typed into the WDS that ford in melbourne give to dealers to program keys
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Macca |
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I am yet to copy the WDS CDs or MDS DVD (PDS) to check them out.
The service manager informed me that there will be no more WDS update discs, whether this is only Mazda I do not know at this time, but as many Mazda models are also Ford models I am guessing the Mazda PDS discs will also cover the full Ford range like the WDS does.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins ) |
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Lukeyson |
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I've seen WDS update discs up on eBay.
Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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I am getting a little hardcore here, but looking at scantool.net they give you reference circuit diagrams and pointers on how to build your own obd-ii to rs232 converters for use with many of the freely available PC Software scantools around - assuming you are not comfortable just driving it using Hyperterminal and AT Command sets.
The chip in questions is an elm327 (http://www.elmelectronics.com/connect.html), which can drive most ODB-II type interfaces directly, but needs an MCP2551 (http://www.microchip.com/stellent/idcpl ... e=en010405) to interface with the CAN bus. Mate, this is getting cool! I'm going to go and experiment with this thing to see what I can do. The elm327 is about $30 Canadian (looking for it in Australia), and the MCP2551 is about $2 US, with various other components needed to get it to work. I'll try the reference circuit from the Data Sheet first. As an aside, I forwarded some of this detail to Silicon Chip magazine, as they often do automotive electronics projects, and have even published a book recently on do-it-yourself automotive electronics projects (boost controllers, light dimmer controllers, capacitor ignition etc) - their last OBD-II project was 'how to short two pins together to enable the display of DTC codes on the dash' in 2003. I think they can do better. Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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I just found a link with someone that's already tried this on a 2004 Falcon successfully, and also had some success on recent model Commodores.
It's a Commodre site, so shield your eyes as you go in.... http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/arc ... 665-1.html Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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Damage wrote: Lukeyson wrote: Available everywhere? Like from a discrete online source somewhere perhaps......? Lukeyson Hmm as the Ford/Mazda WDS use a special non PC standard hardware it would probably be senseless to get that software (? But I could get if you really wanted it ) When the MDS is up and running I will check out the software to see if it can do Ford Australia programing, if so I will copy the software and you might be able to get hold of one of those diagnostic connectors, I did see them available on the web somewhere. Tomorrow I will have to check out the Landrover Testbook and the MDS to see what they can do, as they use the same VCM (I think that is the name) diagnostic connector. "xpression" might remember what the diagnostic connector is called, the same one is required for Ford's PDS (PDA) I have finally found reference to the new tools that are coming out to replace the aging WDS. http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/ ... nuIndex1=8 Of interest is this 'VCM' hardware device that is discussed. I'd be curious to find out what the Primary chip is in this device. I can't imagine it would be an ELM327, but there's always a possibility. The main issue is the command set used on the RS232 side, which will be chip specific, and will most likely determine compatibility with the Ford software. How's it going with the unpacking so far damage? Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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Hmm, the service boys at Klosters at Cardiff let me have a look at the new PDS tool they have. I didn't think to have a look at the VCM to see what I could make of it.
But from what I've read at the Motorcraft site, this looks very interesting/promising. Damage, I'm chomping at the bit now to see what that software looks like. Lukeyson |
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Nicko |
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I am following this closely, its a an inetresting read!
_________________ Nicko |
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Lukeyson |
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Well, I'm just pricing out the best ELM327 unit to get.
The Australian Distributor of the ELMscan5 is motorscan technologies at http://www.motorscan.com.au/ and is $255 AUD plus $12.50 postage and handling. But there's a cheaper unit at $99.95USD plus $12.95USD international postage and handling, which at today's exchange rate (www.exchangerate.com) of about 74c in the USD works out to be about $153AUD. Looking deeper, however, I'm now not sure which mode is used to do the retraining of the BEM/PCM/HIM/IR/KEYLOCK - it looks like it may be a custom mode above Mode 9, which means there may actually be now way to use a standard OBD2 scantool. On a bit of a tangent, is there any chance that anyone here has a copy of SAE J1979 ? Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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I have an ELM327 OBD2 to Serial Converter. I have only tested it once and I can't remember what software package i used. All i could do at this stage is read the DTC codes to see if anything was wrong.
I'm going on a break for 2 weeks soon, so I will be testing some packages out on it shortly. Also, my car has gone in this week to get the engine replaced under warranty. I hope to get pricing on the MCC/ACC stuff when I pick it up. I had let this all sit stagnant whilst doing the ICC Reverse Camera integration project. Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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I've got some prices:
Luxury ICC with colour screen and stacker - $4300 BEM/H - $400 Airmix Actuatur Shafts (2 x in kit) - $50 Drivers Airmix Actuator - $270 Drivers Airmix Actuator Subharness - $45 Passenger Mirror with Sensor - $450 Sunload/Twilight Sensor - $60 ...which pretty much takes it out of the ballpark for new bits, but gives us a good idea on what wrecker bits are worth. Lukeyson |
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Nicko |
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Lukeyson,
i gather you have factory manuals if not pm me
_________________ Nicko |
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Lukeyson |
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Yep, sure do.
Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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Hey, I've fallen back into this one again, after a long time thinking it was out of my price range.
FTG Auto Salvage will sell all the bits for $1750 - however they have indicated that this also includes a whole Dash Harness. If I have to pull the whole Dash out just to swap a harness that's enough for me to drop it again. But factor in me selling off a Premium Audio ICC with 6 Disc Stacker, and a BEM/L, and I reckon I could make half that money back, or therebouts, and it now sounds moderately attractive. So I started hunting around. I ripped my LHS door trim off to have a look, hoping I could find the 5-pin C-377 connector in the door that would let me hookup a LHS mirror with the Ambient Air Sensor. Alas, all I could find was the 3-pin C-96. Since my doos have the 'window button lights' which is a 'high series' loom inclusion, I was optimistic about having the hi-series door loom. Bugger. So it looks like the LHS door harness 14631 has to be replaced. This is of course separate to the Dash Harness 14K024, so next to check there. I popped off the upper console 'triangle' section but couldn't find a clock plug. Then I popped off the blank panel where the sunload sensor should go (between the two windscreen demist vents) and it too looked empty. The wiring diagram on Workshop Manual page 417-02-00-3 indicates that the Sunload Sensor takes it's power from the same line as the Footwell lamps - which I have - so I had some reason to be optimistic with the dash loom as well. But now it's not looking very good at all. I wonder how many different Dash Looms Ford makes for these things? The workshop manual is not clear at all on the looms. Lukeyson |
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Nicko |
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Hi Lukey,
speaking to someone else that was attempting this and they bought the ambient temp sensor of a territory and fitted it to there current mirror, ran the two wire across the dash. They were saying that if you have premium sound most of the wiring is already there, however i am not sure at all on that to be honest. I know you need to cut a hvac rod to make it shorter - but to be honest i think you will have more luck in buying a complete conversion with heater box etc
_________________ Nicko |
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