hey fellas,

i have a BA XR6 Turbo ute and i am thinking about putting the ICC out of a BA typhoon, it is the ACC (duel zone silver faced one) into my ute and also i have the twin guages to go on top of the ICC out of the same Typhoon.

Basically i am just wondering how much hassel exactly it is to do the swap, like what do i need extra and prices for everything that i will need, what needs to get reflashed by the WDS and how long it roughly takes...

I am pretty keen to do this as the ICC and the car as a whole will look S much better with it.

Thanks heaps

Dylan

Read the thread and you will find out griffo - its all documented in here

i dont want to have to read ALL 12 pages i have read the 1st 2 and the last two.....

I just want a quick sum up of it

For dual zone to be installed, you need:

- Dash with Sunload sensor in middle of dash near windscreen ( a black knob sensor thing). Only Cars with Auto headlight feature had this. If not, you'll need to replace the dash loom with one that does, or simply replace with a fairmont one.
- Physically, the HIM on the LHS of the heater box is the same between manual climate control and automatic dual zone climate control. The socket for connecting the secondary heater/aircon flap actuator is there, regardless of dual zone or not. Ford WDS tool can reprogram the HIM to dual zone mode.
- Dual Zone HIM (heater box actuator/controller module) and secondary air mix shaft/motor. You can simply unscrew your original Manual climate control HIM from the LHS of the heaterbox and replace it with a dual zone one. The screw holes for adding the secondary airmix motor on the RHS of the heater box should be there already. Dash must be removed to do this.
- You'll need to replace the original 1-piece shaft that moves the 2heater/aircon flaps, with 2 half-shafts that control the LHS and RHS heater/aircon flaps individually.
- Once the heater box has been converted to dual zone, you can plug in the new dual zone ICC. I think you will need the matching high-series BEM for the dual zone ICC to work. If your coming from a car with no auto headlights (e.g. BA MK1 XT), you would need to replace BEM with high series one. XR with premium sound option may not need to replace BEM.
- You'll need a visit to ford or someone with WDS computer to remove the audio system security from your new ICC, as well as reprogram the BEM so that your car starts (if you have a low-series BEM, and replacing it with a high series one).

- From experience, the LHS mirror with ambient temp sensor is not necessary. Dual Zone works fine without, but u will have no outside air temp display. My car was an XT BA, and I had to replace the entire LHS door loom to install the LHS mirror with ambient temp sensor. Did all that just to find that the car, being a pov-pack XT didnt have the rest of the loom that goes from the door hinge to the BEM/ICC that carries the ambient temp signal.

Overall, it was worth doing, did mine in 2 hours with no previous auto elec experience or dash out jobs. Makes the dash look heaps classier, but don't spend too much on getting the parts. All up, with ICC, I managed to get all parts for around $500, including dual zone color ICC ($250), full fairmont GHIA dash($70), dual zone heaterbox($50) , LHS door mirror and loom ($70), visit to ford dealer ($50). Shouldnt be paying anymore than this, considering fairmonts/ghias can be had for not much $$ these days.

You got a dual-zone ICC for $250?

Gee, it's good to be you. They sell regularly for $700 to $800 on eBay. You might need to divulge your sources.

I get the feeling that the HIM actually does use the outside temp sensor for more than just showing the external temp on the ICC. On a recent 44 degree heat day the aircon sustained a much higher steady-state speed and cooler temp to keep the cabin a constant cool temp. On cooler days with the same sunload the aircon backs off much further.

It will eventually get the cabin cool on a real hot day with no external temp sensor, but I would expect that when the cabin finally cools the aircon will back right off, then rare up again, then back off etc etc rather than keep a constant speed.

I could be wrong though.


Lukeyson

Interesting reading on how the dual zone is meant to work, according to the outside temperature. I'd really like to get the door mirror sensor wired up, but reading a wiring diagram for it seemed to suggest that the cabling runs from the door mirror, to the door loom, and then into the side body loom, then to the engine bay, then to the HIM unit. But I am very bad at reading wiring diagrams and much prefer to rip things apart and see them for myself, but dont have the time to go ripping out the dash all over again.

Yeh, the ICC was a good score for $250, but by no means pristine. Wrecker down in cambellfield, victoria gave me a good package deal when i bought all the dual zone gear off of him, and he ended handing over a dual zone color ICC for $250. Had a few scratches on the fascia and the aircon vents were filled with shattered glass. Also later found that the CD stacker was jammed, but this was remarkably easy to fix, with just a screwdriver and toothpick. Been over six months now and the stacker hasn't missed a beat. Glad I only paid $250 for it, IMO, the Dual Zone Premium Sound ICC turned out way overrated, sound quality was mediocre at best, and the only thing it had going for it was the colour screen.

Yeah it does play a part in the operation of the climate control. I'm sure you'll find (or rather Ford techs) some error codes being thrown because of the missing ambient temp sensor.

But as above it's not essential.

howdy guys, who might have spares that are usefull to go towards this conversion?

here's one for you i have recently changed my old ICC to a new Premium ICC and in the hast to swap them over i forgot to take out my Motley crew CD so thinking i could just plug the old ICC back but no luck it requires the code for it to work again (pain in the a**)
so any ideas on how to remove the CD from the old ICC ????
i'm really missing motley crew

cheers GOOSE

Go to www.mininova.org, download a new one, burn it onto CD, print on the CD to make it look like new, and put that in your CD case.

Otherwise, open the unit up and get it out?

Or, make the CD an extra marketable selling point when you put it up forsale?


Lukeyson

Thanks dude
but all fixed now
i got the crew back now just need to find a Ford dealer in sth/east Melbourne that will do a reprogramming of my ICC for a good price so i can get the thing will work and get rid of that CODE crap off the screen

Any ideas on a dealer out Dandenong way that wont rip you off
Berwick ford want $100+ just to have a look @ it and thats with a mate that works on the sales team there (go figure)

Cheers Goose

Wow. $100. So a Drewtech Mongoose/CAN and Ford's FMP Software could pay itself back in just 4 or 5 radio recodes....


Lukeyson

Gday Luke, I like many others have read through this and the scantool threads in their entirety and am giddy with excitement (or fatigue). You've done an amazing job and come so far!

I've purchased everything I need for the conversion including an ELM327 1.4 (bluetooth works amazing well) and am hoping to get it all up and running without having to visit Ford (just for the challenge). Any chance you could elaborate on your comment above? I understand you may want to guard a few secrets, but all the searching I've done so far hasn't yielded much...

two and a half year dig..

Hi All, just wanted to let you know that I have done this conversion in my 2003 BA GT. It had premium sound to start with, but I wanted the dual zone climate control. I picked up off ebay a used 2003 GT-P Dual Zone ICC with high series BEM, new aftermarket L/H Mirror with ambient temp sensor, genuine Ford L/H door wiring harness, drivers side airmix actuator with wiring harness and air mix shafts. Bought a new Sunload Sensor and Trim Panel. I pulled out the dash and fitted the sunload sensor which the plug and wiring was taped to the underside of the dash. Removed HIM and replaced the single shaft with the two half shafts screwed on drivers side airmix actuator and plug it into the HIM put dash back together. Changed L/H door wiring harness and new mirror. Then took car to BPT Motorsport and they re-programmed HIM to dual zone. But the drivers side airmix actuator wasn't working or the outside temp on the ICC display. Then after six months of reading and trying different things that didn't work, out of the blue the outside temp starting working but it only read 77 deg C which made the ICC on Auto work flat out trying to cool the car. It was suggested to replace the HIM module with the updated FG one and replace the mirror with a genuine Ford item which I did also replacing the drivers side airmix with a genuine one. Then I had to pull the dash out again (was quicker this time) and then have it programmed again. Now it all works perfectly.