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Lukeyson |
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Uhoh. The Antenna Module is different between SWB and LWB Sedans. Hmm.
Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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OK, had to research why, and this also explains another query I had when I first got the looms.
SWB and Ute's use the same wiring connector (C368) to connect the Antenna Amp Module. It is a 2-pin connector and carries the Power for the Amp AND the Rear Demist. The Amp then has two connections to the rear window - one for the demist, one for the Aerial. LWB, Wagons and Territories have a different connector (C367) with a single pin. This carries only the Antenna Power. A SEPARATE line connects directly to the Demist. This is the line that I could not identify when I mapped the looms out a few weeks ago! So my BF Fairlane loom won't work with my BA Sedan Antenna Amp unless I chop up some connectors. I'm currently investigating options. I suspect a Wagon Module is the most likely choice for me, but Wagon or LWB Modules are still an option till I know better. Lukeyson Last edited by Lukeyson on Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:57 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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Lukeyson |
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OK, so the Territories and LWB cars have the Antenna on the roof. Turns out this is an active Antenna, so receives power. No separate module.
The wagon, however, has a separate Amp Module like the sedans. I can't imagine it would be a unique module - but the workshop manual says it has the same connector as the LWB and Territory!? I better double check. I also found an interesting diagram showing how the SWB and Utes pass the Heated Backlight/Demist through the Antenna Module, but the Wagons and LWB do not. Those that pass the signal through the Antenna Module also appear to require some sort of Inductor. I'm not sure what that's for - probably to suppress something. Maybe to suppress the power in the backlight to stop it affecting the antenna? If that's the case, why does the Wagon have no inductor? Odd. I'm wondering why the heck they made this so hard. Lukeyson
Last edited by Lukeyson on Sat Jun 07, 2008 12:00 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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data_mine |
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So Wagon and Fairlane/LTD have the antenna glass on a side window?
Where the rest have combined antenna/demist rear windows ? Yes, the inductor would be there to remove noise from the circuit for the antenna.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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Lukeyson |
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Nope. LWB + Territory have the black active Antenna on the roof - no separate Antenna Amp. There is a separate Demist Line.
SWB + Ute have combined Demist/Antenna Amp. Wagon has separate Demist Line and Antenna Amp - and I believe has the Antenna on a side window? Luke
Last edited by Lukeyson on Sat Jun 07, 2008 11:55 pm, edited 2 times in total. |
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data_mine |
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Fair enough, never paid much attention to antennae on cars.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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Lukeyson |
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Nope, neither have I, which is why I've been caught out. Welcome to page 5 of 4.
Luke |
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Lukeyson |
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Some part numbers of interest:
18C847 A - AMPLIFIER ASSY - REAR WINDOW AERIAL, 4 DOOR SED 18C847 B - AMPLIFIER ASSY - REAR WINDOW AERIAL, 4 DOOR WAGON 18C847 C - AMPLIFIER ASSY - REAR WINDOW AERIAL, UTILITY LWB and Territory 18828 A - AERIAL ASSY - ROOF MOUNTED, BLACK, WITH MOBILE PHONE Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson |
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OK, time to load up on some more Antenna info. A Wagon module may get me out of trouble, but the more I look into this, the more it appears that I can't escape the need to install a Fairlane Antenna.
Firstly, all the descriptions I could find on the Antennas on all models.
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Lukeyson |
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Territory Antenna Diagrams
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Lukeyson |
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Fairlane and Falcon Antenna Images
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Lukeyson |
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Lunch on Sunday.
I've had to give up on feeding the tweeter lines on eitehr side, and the roof loom feed on the drivers side, up the side of the dash. Instead I've chopped and soldered in some extension lines and am running those lines up the outer edge of the dash in that gap between it and the door seal rubber. Works well. No solution to the Antenna yet. I think I'll get both a Wagon module and a Fairlane Antenna. Wagon module has the same coax and power feed connectors, but doesn't run the Demist and FM through the same line, so doesn't have the filters. However, my car already has a filter on the GND side, I just have to figure out if I can put the power-feed side filter in manually. This damn SWB antenna modules is a mongrel to try and crack open.... And Fairlane box needs a hole in the roof. So that's a deterrent. May be the best option in the long run though. In the interim I'll make up a little bridging loom for the power and demist feeds, and strip the SWB antenna line out of my old loom and put it in. Luke |
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data_mine |
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The mind boggles as to why Ford decided to do the same thing differently four times over (I can understand the small glass area of the ute).
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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Lukeyson |
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Lukeyson wrote: I(5) LWB Loom Length and Rear Numberplate Lights. Because I'm changing looms to support the side impact sensors and extra power on the passengers seat, the extra length is a mild concern - but I expect I can take that up in the parcel shelf. Better to be too long than too short! And the Fairlane has the number plate in the rear bumper, not on the bootlid, so hopefully the plug to the bootlid harness is still populated on the LWB Loom.
Lukeyson There are 2 x spots where there is extra length. (1) Right at the front of the wheelarch - where the loom lifts from the floor and goes up to the parcel shelf. And (2) Right at the back of the wheelarch, where the sub amp, boot flap opener and chassis GND is located. Also, I can confirm that the Bootlid connector (C-52) does NOT contain the brakelight and parklight lines (for number plate). Nor does it have a bulb-holder for the parcel-shelf stop light. Fairlanes instead have a high-mount stoplight that is powered by the Roof Loom from the A-Pillar lines. I guess I'll be running with no taillights or bootlid brake lights for the next little while. I'll put the rest back together and do that last. Luke |
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Lukeyson |
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Almost there. I had a 'moment' where none of the brakelights would work. I reseated all the main connectors and they came good.
I've cleared all the DTC's. The only one that I get now when doing a On Demand DTC check (as opposed to a self-triggered Continuous DTC) is the clutch pedal switch. Not sure why yet. I've enabled the Park Aid Module in the ICC, and now when I hit reverse it cuts out the music to the rear speakers only, and plays the beep noise. I made a bodgey bridging loom up for the Antenna, so it gets power and passes the main diag checkk. It knows there's no antenna cable connected though. I'll cut that out of the old loom and use that for awhile till I figure out a permanent solution. (Yet to do that. I forgot actually, now have to pull some trim off again. Doh!) All seats and mirrors are in (drivers seat is not bolted down yet) and working. Memory functions are working. Windows and Drivers Courtesy Light are all working. Passenger seat is now powered an working. 7yo has given her approval - since it can now lift her up high enough to just see over the Dash. I have not swapped out the Restraint Module to enable the Side Airbags. Of all damn things I've misplaced the Side Impact mounting bolts. And I have found myself running so overtime on tasks that I figured it be best to wait for another day. But I have made some quick rewiring to the console and the rear footwell lamps. (1) I have reterminated the main loom plug (newly installed) that is supposed to power the footwell lights, and have connected my footwell to that. (2) The lines I ran to the footwell up through the console have been cut close to the trinket tray, and were reterminated, and now connect to the line that was for the 'Cigarette Lighter' illumination. I plan to put a Courtesy Light -IN- the console, that only comes on when it is opened. I'll do a separate thread for that I think. (3) But what of the Trinket Tray light you ask? Well, I now have that connected to my free Couresy line. So now that damn thing isn't on all the time when I drive, but I can turn it on with the interior lights. Of Note, I drilled a hole in the back of the Tissue Box holder, put a keyway in with a stanly knofe, and now the Trinket Tray light is properly mounted. I have yet to re-splice the Trigger for the Reverse Camera, and the line for the Electronic Brake Booster - these are all at the Drivers rear tail-lamp. And finally, I have some 'spade' pins to insert into the connector for the Bootlid brakelight and number plate lights. I'll wire those into the Pass tail-light. I might also put in another parcel-shelf stoplight bulb holder too while I'm there. SHould be easy enough. Much more work than I thought. Not sure now whether I saved myself time or made it worse by not doing the dash-out for the side lines. Getting close now. At least if I bolt down the drivers seat it's driveable - which is a relief. Lukeyson |
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