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| revcore |
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I have read all of the Smartlock topics but couldn't find what I was looking for.
Was wondering if you can disable Smartlock in a EL so that you can still lock and unlock the doors using the key but not using the remote?
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| MMD |
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I am using a j3 chip to disable smart lock in an AU and it does not stop the door locks from working.
not sure about the bypass module you can buy. |
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| revcore |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I am using a j3 chip to disable smart lock in an AU and it does not stop the door locks from working. not sure about the bypass module you can buy. At the moment my door locks are cycling and it's really starting to annoy the hell out of me. If I could bypass Smartlock but still have all the doors and the tailgate lock by locking and unlocking the drivers door by key then I'd be happy.
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| TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I am using a j3 chip to disable smart lock in an AU and it does not stop the door locks from working. not sure about the bypass module you can buy. At the moment my door locks are cycling and it's really starting to annoy the hell out of me. If I could bypass Smartlock but still have all the doors and the tailgate lock by locking and unlocking the drivers door by key then I'd be happy. the problem is in your door actuators not the smartlock. best off just fixing the actuators.. the smartlock in ef/el is in the bcm, so the only reall way to dissable it is to remove it. fit a smartlock bypass and bypass the ignition kill. but if you remove the module most of the interior options wont work anymore including the central locking.. |
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| revcore |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I am using a j3 chip to disable smart lock in an AU and it does not stop the door locks from working. not sure about the bypass module you can buy. At the moment my door locks are cycling and it's really starting to annoy the hell out of me. If I could bypass Smartlock but still have all the doors and the tailgate lock by locking and unlocking the drivers door by key then I'd be happy. the problem is in your door actuators not the smartlock. best off just fixing the actuators.. the smartlock in ef/el is in the bcm, so the only reall way to dissable it is to remove it. fit a smartlock bypass and bypass the ignition kill. but if you remove the module most of the interior options wont work anymore including the central locking.. Sounds like I might have to buy a new actuator for all 4 doors. If only one actuator is buggered how can I find out which one it is?
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| MMD |
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Agreed with Troyman,
pretty sure you can have only one connected at a time and it should still function properly. So maybe try to disconnect all but one and cycle through them until you get a result. someone else confirm ? |
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| bry40l |
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couldnt you unplug one at a time until the problem stops then you find your problem?
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| revcore |
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{USERNAME} wrote: couldnt you unplug one at a time until the problem stops then you find your problem? I'll do that tomorrow and hopefully there is only one actuator that is buggered. My guess is the drivers door actuator.
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| revcore |
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Are the actuators cheap? If it is the master actuator would that be more expensive than a slave actuator?
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| SLO247 |
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Make sure the plastic snib on top of the rod is moving freely, and that the rod isn't catching part of the doortrim or anything on the inside. Often this is the problem. I'd pull off the drivers door trim, pull the rod away from everything so it can't catch and then try locking and unlocking it.
After that, try disconnecting them as mentioned. You should be able to get a replacement pretty cheap, I paid $30 for a full set a few years ago. I only have the backs left now though. |
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| revcore |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Make sure the plastic snib on top of the rod is moving freely, and that the rod isn't catching part of the doortrim or anything on the inside. Often this is the problem. I'd pull off the drivers door trim, pull the rod away from everything so it can't catch and then try locking and unlocking it. After that, try disconnecting them as mentioned. You should be able to get a replacement pretty cheap, I paid $30 for a full set a few years ago. I only have the backs left now though. Funnily enough I had the drivers door trim off last week because I replaced the face on the drivers door lock and when I took the door trim off the plastic rod broke so I replaced it with another one that had a slightly different bend in it so there is a possibility it could be catching although the button moves up and down freely that I can see. It doesn't cycle all the time....About 85% of the time at the moment regardless if I use the remote or use the key to unlock and lock the car.
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| TROYMAN |
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even the lock button on the top of the trim being pushed on to far can cause cycling of the actuators..
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| revcore |
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Those plastic rods are pretty fragile....The original one on my EL was a red type of colour and had a specific bend in it where as the one I replaced it with was white and had a bend in the opposite direction (It was a spare from my ED) so perhaps the white one could be a left instead of a right - Possible reason why I get the cycling problem. I'll disconnect the rod tomorrow and see what happens. If need be I'll have to hunt down the proper rod for it.
Come to think of it I reckon the problem only started after I replaced the face on the drivers door lock which was also when the plastic rod broke in the drivers door (Which was replaced with a slightly different rod).
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| TROYMAN |
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yep, you have the wrong rod, white is a passenger one..
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| revcore |
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{USERNAME} wrote: yep, you have the wrong rod, white is a passenger one.. It's a pity Ford made the EL with a sniper button on the drivers door....Would have been excellent if it didn't have one like the rest of the doors. But I can see why it's there I guess. I'll remove the white rod tomorrow and see what happens.
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