thanks guys, and the temp guage is a dud bummer, well when i goto ABC next ill have to pick up a new cluster

cheers

Firstly in regards to your trip computer... See here: documents.php?d=82

Or see my build thread as I just did it myself: the-garage-f53/timmytimtim-s-93-ed-mods-t79040-40.html

Inverter is a bad idea... Plus expensive... and like you said to get pure sine is dearer again...

My Rotel amp is 5 channel and THX approved it draws 800watts (this is a 240V unit in my home theatre) and is 500Watts music power + my sub is a 160W Torpedo Sub... Which is 210Watts on the AC line... Plus you have a processor... Again my rotel processor is 48Watts... Plus a screen, for your sake, an ASUS 21.5" monitor off a PC (http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?mai ... s_id=14041) draws 55Watts and a Sony PS3 draws around the 130Watts mark when in a game (off the net)...

So just here you have (800 + 210 + 48 + 55 + 130) a total of 1243Watts of AC power going to Jaycar now they do a 1200Watt pure sine inverter (http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID ... rm=KEYWORD) for 1099 bucks and is rated to have a 180amp external fuse... it weighs 18kgs...

Your factory 70amp alternator is really going to struggle with this... let alone adding a few hundred watts of headlights for night driving (doubt your gonna be using a home theatre during the day as it really ruins the experience)...

Mate you're up for some serious money here... a fifth will be spent on an inverter... My THX processor (rotel home theatre one) cost me 800 dollars second hand and my amp cost similar money second (worth a fortune brand new, financial crisis is a great time to buy gear like this )

Goodluck... But without running like 3 factory alternators I can't see how your gonna do this...

I also recommend staying away from computer speakers... for THX your best to have full range speakers... With PC speakers your likely to have <100HZ coming out your sub and your tiny front really aren't gonna pick up to like 600 to 1kHz... And missing these frequencies really ruins the movie experience... You need full range speakers (3 way for the front and rears, will get away with 2 way for a centre as it only does vocal range, not hearing range)

My 2 cents worth anyway...

Will be interested to be proven wrong and see it functioning though... Its gonna be one heavy car in the end with the caps and batteries and alternators to handle to power it'll be using... Not to mention the speakers and enclosures that will have to go into it to get proper full range speakers...

yep timmy your 100% right, with all the caps n battieries and alternators and a huge mofo for a inverter and big enclosures its a waste of time, better off to just need 2 amps n no cap or alternator or extra battery banks or inverter and just stick with the 12v dc and use a normal car audio system my old one went hard had 460w pioneer 6x9's, like 300w or so 6inch fronts, and 2 competition cvr kickers, in a box made for them, with a port the size of a small head! they are like 750Rms each, so both together the peak was like 1500rms, 1500w mono block running at 750rms, and a 800w 4 channel. they went insanenly hard but never went to a sound off, wish i had, im gonna get same system put in my ba soon. i think thats best for ya man

it is hard enough mounting a 8 inch screen in a falcon,
most car dvds have teh 5.1 or better these days well mine does anyway ha
i run 2 amps dvd,screens big bass ect all 12v..
anyway i had to upgrade my battery and still might have to get a bigger alternator .
whoever thinks a capacitor will fix charging issues is a ningnong and a numpty.
it will just draw more amps from your battery .

Who told you this? That is bull... The idea of a capacitor is its a solid state battery... It has two functions: 1) It has the ability to be discharged in an extremely short period of time and provide massive power output (lots of joules over a small period is a s**t load of watts or discharge)...

The reason for this is when you hit a massive low when you have the stereo cranked and your 1000W mono block goes s**t I need 3x my rated power for .25 of a second to do this... The battery cannot discharge at this rate and the amp therefore cannot reproduce this sound and then you get a massive dip in power in your car for a fraction of a second... This is no good for electrics and reduces sound quality... A cap can discharge at this rate, hence you get the sound and the dip in power is minimised...

2) is the same reason when you crack open a (say 10amp) dc power supply (240V in 13.8V out) you will see 1 or 2 or even more massive caps in there... When used on DC caps provide superb filtering and help keep a good dc signal... Caps do not filter in an ac circuit and only work as a load (commonly for power factor correction)...

Cheers...

couldnt have said it better my self
thanks timmy