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| XR~ADZ |
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Hi Guys,
I had to pull out a fuse on my EF as the door lock were continuosly cycling... I think the actuator on the front passenger door is shagged..? If it is, would this cause all the door locks to cycle? and how hard is it to replace an actuator - and cost of the part? cheers, Adz btw - any one else had this problem?? its a pain in the a** - as now I cant use my remote to open the doors.... 
_________________ "This is FORD country.... Where on a quiet day you can hear the HOLDENS rusting...." |
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| Vic |
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Perhaps the door lock is not engaging fully with the striker so check for simple lock fault.
However if it is the actuator and you know which one it is then perhaps you can pull the trim off that door and disconnect the actuator plug from the rest of the door loom. If the actuator is faulty then you need to remove the rivets holding it in. 
_________________ 5.6L of carbon footprint. |
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| Happy |
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my advice is to pull the passenger actuator out and replace your door handle with one from an EL - no key hole!!
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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| XR~ADZ |
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"Perhaps the door lock is not engaging fully with the striker so check for simple lock fault"
Vic - can you explain what you mean by this?? Sorry - i have never dealt with door locks before
_________________ "This is FORD country.... Where on a quiet day you can hear the HOLDENS rusting...." |
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| Vic |
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Just that it does not lock properly. If the door lock hook cannot complete its movement all the way when shutting the door then the actuator rod which is attached to the door lock is not going to be all the way in or out and so the actuator cycles itself repeatedly.
_________________ 5.6L of carbon footprint. |
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| XR~ADZ |
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so to check this i would still need to remove the cover from the door hey.....
_________________ "This is FORD country.... Where on a quiet day you can hear the HOLDENS rusting...." |
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| SIM |
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sounds like i have the same problem.. but with my drivers door. what kind of price can i expect for a new one?
_________________ RIP Scotty |
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| Vic |
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I don't have any knowledge of prices guys.. you'll have to ring a wrecker once you know which component is the problem.
_________________ 5.6L of carbon footprint. |
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| snap0964 |
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The cycling actuators are a well known fault, can be caused by one of the actuators range of movement being impeded (maybe a snipper is not seated properly, etc), or the actuator is binding. If the doors are not properly closed, generally when you lock by keyfob or key, the locks will cycle once, and the horn gives a number of short bursts - sounds like you're not getting this, so I'd suspect an actuator. The only way I know to test actuators is to unplug/plug each in turn, to determine the faulty one - you can dismantle them, probably needs the lubrication renewed - silicon or any electrical compatible grease is fine. You can test it off the vehicle as well - they do appear regularly on ebay as well . . .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| fuzion |
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aaah!
before you listen to 50 theories to take it out try this a) rip out the plug/knotch/knob ontop of the door trim and see if it does it. b) if it does still do it, take 1 door trim off at a time and see if it does it then. c) if it stops, somethings not together right or your knob on the door trim hasnt been pushed in or in too far causing it. d) disconnect the actuators as mentioned and see which one doesnt do it . try those before you do anything and get back to us, as its VERY common for that to hapen. Or your actuator got water in it and is having a spasm! to get the rivets out, get a hole puncher and a hammer and slam out the centre pin on it first, then still a 8mm bit into it i think and you'll watch them fall out. use nuts/bolts to put them back in |
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| Ryan0001 |
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i think its seriously time to sit down with a few electronicly minded FM members and work out a way to replace E-series actuators. i hate mine, and im sure lots of people hate theirs too
maybe we should start tossing ideas back and forth about how to solve it. it cant be impossible... |
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| Mitch_ |
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Posts: 6168 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 |
apparently you can trotrofit commodore ones....anyone wanna tell us how to do this! also is it possible to get the deadlock feature!?!?
someone must know! so let us all know
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| fuzion |
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for the money u spend and effort u do it aint worth it
au ones dont fit as they're into the actual locking mechanism together unlike the ef's .. |
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i think its seriously time to sit down with a few electronicly minded FM members and work out a way to replace E-series actuators. i hate mine, and im sure lots of people hate theirs too :P Well, to get a good understanding of the problem and how to fix it, have a look at http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbportal/m ... icle&id=41 - you'll need to create a userlogin to view it (it's free).
maybe we should start tossing ideas back and forth about how to solve it. it cant be impossible...
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Ryan0001 |
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i know that the au ones open and close depending on which way the current is flowing or something and efs use i wire for open and a wire for closed, so maybe some circut or relay setup could be designed to solve that?
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