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djmikey |
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Hey all, I am wondering if the central locking actuaters in the ed is the same accross the whole e series, as mine are dancing and am wanting to replace the front 2 to see if it makes a difference
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67RCE |
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just get the Jaycar actuators, they are cheaper than the E-series parts
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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djmikey |
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Are they a direct replacement wiring etc
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Mitch_ |
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Posts: 6168 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 |
no! look in the techncial document, its not that complicated to install, just a bit of effort to make it look factory!
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snap0964 |
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The E series actuators are all interchangeable (except EB/ED wagon tailgate ones) - EL's did get some revisions to reduce cycling, but didn't eliminate this condition.
Fitting aftermarket actuators are certainly worth the effort - if you bid wisely on Ebay, you'll pick them up cheaper than Jaycar kits, which are pretty much the same.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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bbd71 |
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I replaced the actuators in my ED Futura sedan a week ago with the Jaycar system. Not hard but time consuming and fiddely. I still need to do some research on the proper wiring as the only thing that doesnt work now is the dash mounted lock/unlock button.
I think i wired the system into the smartlock before the dash switch and need to see if there is a better way of wiring it in. Other than that, it works great and is heaps better than the factory. Much quieter and quicker. PS. If anyone is interested, i have 4 factory door actuators, the drivers side one i think has a problem, but the others work fine. No plugs though, i used the originals.
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snap0964 |
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bbd71 wrote: I still need to do some research on the proper wiring as the only thing that doesnt work now is the dash mounted lock/unlock button. Find the red/yellow & yellow/black wires from your BEM, cut them, run the BEM wires to the aftermarket relay box, use the other cut ends to connect to the actuator blue/green wires.
I think i wired the system into the smartlock before the dash switch and need to see if there is a better way of wiring it in. You'll then find your dash switch/keyfob will work - you need at least one actuator to be wired up as a master (5 wires).
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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djmikey |
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According to Ford the actuators over the E series were different, eb/d were different to ef and el, as the later ones cycle faster or something. So apparently may work to replace all 4 with ef ones, but he couldn't guarentee it would work(ford still have ef ones in stock)
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bbd71 |
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snap0964 wrote: bbd71 wrote: I still need to do some research on the proper wiring as the only thing that doesnt work now is the dash mounted lock/unlock button. Find the red/yellow & yellow/black wires from your BEM, cut them, run the BEM wires to the aftermarket relay box, use the other cut ends to connect to the actuator blue/green wires.I think i wired the system into the smartlock before the dash switch and need to see if there is a better way of wiring it in. You'll then find your dash switch/keyfob will work - you need at least one actuator to be wired up as a master (5 wires). There are no red or yellow wires running from the BEM or smartlock module as stated in the tech doco that correspond to the central locking on my car. There are red and yellow wires going to each door, but they must come from somewhere and its not the BEM or smartlock module.It took me 2 hours of searching for the plugs and wires. I have wired the central locking module to 2 pink wires coming from the smartlock module which, according to the repair manual i have, are the wires for the central locking. I need to do some more research about the central locking wiring. If anyone else can help, i would be grateful.
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snap0964 |
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The dash switch wires are pink/orange, pink/black & black.
You need to tap in downstream - best spot will be around the drivers kickpanel area, find where the lock and unlock lines branch off to the drivers door, and the other doors. My manual says these lines are RY and YB, just like the later E series.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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bbd71 |
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Thanks Snap, thats what i was thinking. When i get the chance i am going to get under the dash and have a good look.
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snap0964 |
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NP
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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bradysarlo |
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Mine are starting to play up...
Is this the correct kit? http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... &SUBCATID= ... or doesnt it matter? are they all basicly the same?
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bbd71 |
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Yep, thats the kit i bought.
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bradysarlo |
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Apart from fixing the problem... are they as good as people say?... in the way of being quicker and more quiet?
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