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| Cosham |
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G'day.
My drivers window is stuck down and won't come up. there's power to the motor because when i push the down button it makes a noise, but when i push up i get nothing. oh and i took the door trim off and tried to give it a hand but it doesn't budge. What to do?
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| Daniel |
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Cosham wrote: G'day.
My drivers window is stuck down and won't come up. there's power to the motor because when i push the down button it makes a noise, but when i push up i get nothing. oh and i took the door trim off and tried to give it a hand but it doesn't budge. What to do? May have burned out the motor. Leave it over night if you can safely(guess u may have to at this time anyway), if it doesnt work by morning id look at getting it fixed..
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| NC 5ltr |
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my drivers power window switch sticks down when i press it and if i forget to release it cuts out the motor for a while to cool it down.
it depends on how long it takes to cool down though
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| stuzzy |
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i had the opisite problem with my window were it was stuck up i pulled my swithes apart because i could hear the motor work and it was the switches were stuffed so i got a new set i got em 4 $180 but i think they r $250 for memory
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| Ben_Daui |
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You can attempt to service them your self of take them to an auto electrician ,If you plan to do it your self its pretty easy to do.
The switches get CARBON build up on them due to DC power on the terminals so pulling the unit apart & cleaning it up can take about 15mins-1/2 an hour but you will be amased HOW MUCH s**t GETS DOWN THERE.
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| Pulco |
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just check that the cables that make the window go up and down arent f**k and the little cog that drives it!
to see this u have to pull the mech out of the door by drilling the pin things that ford put it! it has happened to me a few times now! i get repair gets from a wreckter up here for about $70 a window!
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| Electroboy |
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check that your window isn't jamming in its track when it needs to go up, you will find that the switch is the problem and will need to be replaced as the up contact has the most current draw for power windows
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| ItchiOne |
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If you have a problem with the mechanical part of the winding mechanism - do not wind the window up. Read the mod dochttp://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=23 for more info on how to fix a faulty winder.
If its not the winder mechanism, read on 
12V should be sent to the window motor when it is winding up or down, only the polarity changes with direction. So first thing is to see if the fault is the switch or the motor. To find out where the problem may be, disconnect the plug to the window motor (guess you have to remove door trim to do this). Connect a 12V globe to the plug in place of the motor. Now operate the switch both up and down. If the lamp lights up when operating windows up and down, then the switch and the wiring for that door is OK. If the switch is OK, your motor or winding mechanism is stuffed. To check the motor, apply 12V to one pin and ground to the other, the motor should be heard operating and either winding up or down depending on the polarity. Try reversing the 12V and ground which should reverse the direction. Obviously if the motor does not turn, pull out the motor and either get another of try to fix it (havent pulled one appart myself so can't comment). Cheers. |
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| Electroboy |
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ItchiOne wrote: To find out where the problem may be, disconnect the plug to the window motor (guess you have to remove door trim to do this). Connect a 12V globe to the plug in place of the motor. Now operate the switch both up and down. If the lamp lights up when operating windows up and down, then the switch and the wiring for that door is OK. great idea but not a true test method, a light globe doesn't pull enough current for a true amperage test, these motors can load up to 20 amps or more on pushing the window up
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| ItchiOne |
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Electroboy wrote: ItchiOne wrote: To find out where the problem may be, disconnect the plug to the window motor (guess you have to remove door trim to do this). Connect a 12V globe to the plug in place of the motor. Now operate the switch both up and down. If the lamp lights up when operating windows up and down, then the switch and the wiring for that door is OK. great idea but not a true test method, a light globe doesn't pull enough current for a true amperage test, these motors can load up to 20 amps or more on pushing the window up Even if the motor draws 20A, shouldn't the test still be valid ? I would have thought that the lamp would shows the wiring and switch is OK. If the current caused problems with the switch, i would guess that the failure mode would be that the contacts have welded together (and fuse keeps blowing) or melted, in either case the switch won't work and the globe won't light up. If the current caused problems with the wiring, then the failure mode would be melted wires and lots of shorts in which case the globe also wouldn't light up. Most electrical problems i have looked at have been simple 'its broke' so there is no voltage supplied or a short to earth Haven't had to deal with heavy current issues other than headlights and in those cases it's almost always globes or relays (and once an overheated spade connector).
In anycase i think Cosham's problem is a bung winder
Cheers. |
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| Cosham |
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well if it is a bung winder, how do i get the window to the top? im going away for a week and then i have to drive to melbourne as soon as i get back, so id rather have the window up.
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| Electroboy |
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ItchiOne wrote: Electroboy wrote: ItchiOne wrote: To find out where the problem may be, disconnect the plug to the window motor (guess you have to remove door trim to do this). Connect a 12V globe to the plug in place of the motor. Now operate the switch both up and down. If the lamp lights up when operating windows up and down, then the switch and the wiring for that door is OK. great idea but not a true test method, a light globe doesn't pull enough current for a true amperage test, these motors can load up to 20 amps or more on pushing the window up Even if the motor draws 20A, shouldn't the test still be valid ? I would have thought that the lamp would shows the wiring and switch is OK. If the current caused problems with the switch, i would guess that the failure mode would be that the contacts have welded together (and fuse keeps blowing) or melted, in either case the switch won't work and the globe won't light up. If the current caused problems with the wiring, then the failure mode would be melted wires and lots of shorts in which case the globe also wouldn't light up. Most electrical problems i have looked at have been simple 'its broke' so there is no voltage supplied or a short to earth Haven't had to deal with heavy current issues other than headlights and in those cases it's almost always globes or relays (and once an overheated spade connector).In anycase i think Cosham's problem is a bung winder Cheers. like i said, current is the issue with the test, if you use a head lamp globe then you might just make the load test, a faulty switch can still pass 12volt just from some of the buildup on the contacts, but with a decent load it would burn this crap to carbon and not conduct zero voltage or low resistance.
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| ItchiOne |
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Cosham wrote: well if it is a bung winder, how do i get the window to the top? im going away for a week and then i have to drive to melbourne as soon as i get back, so id rather have the window up. Have you read the document i link to earlier. It states not to try and force the window up if the winder is broken as you will wreck the mechanism and have to buy another one. If you have looked at the winder and it is OK, and suspect the button, you could always try changing that or otherwise use some wire (same gauge as that tot the motor) to connect the window motor directly to a 12V source and wind up the window by bypassing the switch. That way you won't get wet driving to melbourne. [quote'"Electroboy"]like i said, current is the issue with the test, if you use a head lamp globe then you might just make the load test, a faulty switch can still pass 12volt just from some of the buildup on the contacts, but with a decent load it would burn this crap to carbon and not conduct zero voltage or low resistance.[/quote] Guess the lamp could still be used as a first test since globes are cheep and easily available. If all shows well, then it must be the switch. Guess this is where it get's harder for some, as you then need to do a load test as you say. What could be used to do a load test, an old radiator bar heater ? Cheers. |
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| Electroboy |
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ItchiOne wrote: Cosham wrote: well if it is a bung winder, how do i get the window to the top? im going away for a week and then i have to drive to melbourne as soon as i get back, so id rather have the window up. Have you read the document i link to earlier. It states not to try and force the window up if the winder is broken as you will wreck the mechanism and have to buy another one. If you have looked at the winder and it is OK, and suspect the button, you could always try changing that or otherwise use some wire (same gauge as that tot the motor) to connect the window motor directly to a 12V source and wind up the window by bypassing the switch. That way you won't get wet driving to melbourne. [quote'"Electroboy"]like i said, current is the issue with the test, if you use a head lamp globe then you might just make the load test, a faulty switch can still pass 12volt just from some of the buildup on the contacts, but with a decent load it would burn this crap to carbon and not conduct zero voltage or low resistance. Guess the lamp could still be used as a first test since globes are cheep and easily available. If all shows well, then it must be the switch. Guess this is where it get's harder for some, as you then need to do a load test as you say. What could be used to do a load test, an old radiator bar heater ? Cheers.[/quote] find one that has 20amp rating and is 12v and away you go.
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| DrE |
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my ea ghia did this to me once cleaned up the contacts in the switch and workedlike new, the contacts where filthy black with carbon
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