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| newuser123 |
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Central Locking isnt working anymore - from inside switch as well as from Remote. When pressing "Doors" on remote - horn beeps indicating a door is open. Checked the CentLocking fuse - was blown - replaced - and fuse just blows again. Somthing seems short somewhere - wondered if anyone has any ideas or have come across this before? Apparently the 2 back doors lock when you press the "Doors" on the remote - but it doesnt lock the 2 front doors
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| Happy |
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lol ... is your interior light stuck on? Could be a door switch stuck or shorting, bad earth. Have you done any work on the car recently to cause it?
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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| newuser123 |
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that was fast - cheers - all the interior lights dim and turn off as normal - havent done any work on the car - the remote only locks the back doors not the front - when you say earth - where is that connection - coz im not that car wiz
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| newuser123 |
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the door switch - that means taking off the inside panel of the door - is there instructions on taking them off - if anyone knows. because the keylock locks the back doors - im suspecting the front doors maybe the first to get checked - that correct? and wondered how to take off the panels as well as how it looks like inside the door and where to look
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| Happy |
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what sort of car are you referring to - the remote should lock all four doors, not the rears only. If that is the case you have a problem with the wiring which handles the front doors I woudl suspect!
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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| newuser123 |
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dude - can you read the heading - its a falcon futura el - it did lock all 4 doors but its not anymore - thats why im here - so can you be more specific about what i can check - maybe like where the wiring is that i can check
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| Happy |
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yes I can read the heading, no I didn't notice it - you think I was asking cos I was bored??? F**k The wiring for the door locks goes from the lock inside the door through the rubber grommit at the front of the door to the power/fuse circuit near your steering wheel. I suspect you have a short between those points! Hence why you fuse is popping when you replace it. Is that specific enough?
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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| twirqurky |
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{USERNAME} wrote: yes I can read the heading, no I didn't notice it - you think I was asking cos I was bored??? F**k The wiring for the door locks goes from the lock inside the door through the rubber grommit at the front of the door to the power/fuse circuit near your steering wheel. I suspect you have a short between those points! Hence why you fuse is popping when you replace it. Is that specific enough?
No...how long is the wire Greg? |
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| newuser123 |
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Its somehow now working intermittently - but out of the blue - the fuse just blows - no idea at all what the cause is - have checked switches - no go - any ideas - if anyone has come across this before appreciate it
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Central Locking isnt working anymore - from inside switch as well as from Remote. When pressing "Doors" on remote - horn beeps indicating a door is open. Checked the CentLocking fuse - was blown - replaced - and fuse just blows again. Somthing seems short somewhere - wondered if anyone has any ideas or have come across this before? Apparently the 2 back doors lock when you press the "Doors" on the remote - but it doesnt lock the 2 front doors {USERNAME} wrote: Its somehow now working intermittently - but out of the blue - the fuse just blows - no idea at all what the cause is - have checked switches - no go - any ideas - if anyone has come across this before appreciate it Sounds like to me a door lock actuator issue - it happens in EF's fairly often, not so much in EL's. All I can suggest is to take the interior trims off the front passenger & front driver doors, and unplug both actuators. Close all the doors and use your remote to lock/unlock the doors - you can also sit inside and do this - may be better to watch/listen to the actuators operating. Since the rears may possibly be ok - they should lock/unlock. If all is okay connect the front passenger actuator, close all doors and repeat the test. Same deal with the drivers door actuator as well. If you have an actuator that is binding or stuck, it will struggle to operate and may cause the fuse to blow. The lock/unlock lines from the actuators change polarity with every cycle, so if one isn't operating, it could possibly short the door power.
TIP: You may want to use the power window Cct breaker in the door lock fuse position while you're testing - both are rated at 30A, and it might save you a s**t load of 30A fuses. 
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| newuser123 |
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thanks much - i will try that - one thing i forgot - when it worked yesterday - I drove home happy as - then while driving i heard fuse make like a spark noise - then i pressed the centr lock on the dash and doors were all dead - fuse blown while driving - no idea - with the actuators - can that be pulled apart and checked - like for shortcircuit or it will have to be replaced if found to be the cause - appreciate all your responses
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: thanks much - i will try that - one thing i forgot - when it worked yesterday - I drove home happy as - then while driving i heard fuse make like a spark noise - then i pressed the centr lock on the dash and doors were all dead - fuse blown while driving - no idea - with the actuators - can that be pulled apart and checked - like for shortcircuit or it will have to be replaced if found to be the cause - appreciate all your responses hhhhmmmm . . . that could throw a spanner in the works . . .
Actuators can be pulled apart and tested - most likely only need some lubrication - electrical compatible greases like silicon grease can be used. If the actuators are originals, they'll be rivetted to the door on a bracket. Might also check out what the door lock cct powers otherwise - audio amp if fitted, fuel flap release, trailer connector, mobile phone connector. It also has a line to the BEM - so anything could be possible. As mentioned earlier, it's not unlikely there may be a wiring issue - chafing somewhere. Also a previous owner may have done some bodgy wiring - I'd say best start with the actuators . . . .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| newuser123 |
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ummm - actuator on the drivers door was replaced last year - but could be either door - will check
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| newuser123 |
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i have checked the actuators - none of them is stuck or anything
problem still there - central lock would work then fuse just goes even while driving or even with car idling. Leaving it overnight - come next day it works again - then while I drive to work it just goes - i could hear the fuse blown (spark type of sound). Wondered if theres a relay or anything that could also be checked. I know when I press the doors lock switch from inside - it makes a sound like clicks twice from under the dash - wondered what it is. Pressing the remote just makes it peep twice like a door is open - any help greatly appreciated |
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| newuser123 |
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another thing is could it be related to having a new stereo in - i've had a new sony mp3 player stereo installed - but its been working for over a year before this problem so im not sure - thought i'd throw that in. almost like something builds up charge then it shorts the connections or something - very frustrating stuff
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