Maybe lubicating the lock mechanism on that door will reduce the work load on the actuator. Or you could replace that actuator and remove another to see if you theory is correct.

Taking another one off is a good idea Mad Max. I have thought of that, but it's a damned sight easier replacing the BEM to test that first (especially since I'm doing that anyway!). If the new BEM doesn't fix it, that will definitely be the next test.

A colleague reminded me that a bad connection could easily add a fraction of an ohm to the sense resistor.

Thanks,
Dang.

keep trying to lock it whilst putting ur ear to each door, until u hear what door is buggering it up. My guess it is the actuator, and knowing fords, probably the drivers door ?

hmm actuators a re a common fault on an ef 1 after that most were fixed, ive got the same prob at the moment, but it wasnt just the actuators that were stuffed, both door locked assemblies were kinda broken.
well one was brocken the other one just has a rod in am mess same out it got turned aroun causing the locks to go spastic, the other one had a broken bit of plasic causing drivers side not to lock with remote keyless.
bit of a nightmare all good now though.
so it could be anything really make sure u check everything before lashing out for new actuators

OK guys, this is really starting to bug me. Got the new BEM in, still playing up So the faulty BEM theory is pretty much shot. Pulled the skin off the drivers door, pulled the loom off that and it seems to work fine as well. I guess the four together are just drawing too much current.

One think I noticed - the drivers door won't lock when it is unlatched. Is that how it's supposed to be? Could be the latch thats causing the problem. Who knows?

Other thing I thought of - the drivers door has an extra ground wire and switch, so it grounds the appropriate line when actuated by the lock button or the key barrel. Perhaps it's opening, and then grounding the lock line again.

Looks like I'm gonna have to rig something up to do a current draw test on each lock actuator.

Thanks again for all your ideas guys, but looks like I'm still a ways of solving this one.

Dang.

I am having the exact same problem as you mentioned, as is one of my mates. We both have EF Fairmonts.

When its hot it plays up heaps more. So very very annoying.

I was having a look today and I think it's something with the right rear door. I went around slamming the doors hard, and when I slammed the right rear door, it did the stupid "lock, unlock, lock, unlock" thing.

Hopefully either of us finds a solution soon

Well, hopefully not premature claiming victory, but I think I've solved the problem.

It appears to be fixed, thanks to a seamless transaction from a forum member who sold me a new drivers door actuator. (He still has one left, so mute, you can probably expect to hear from him!)

Seems that what was happening, was that when the drivers door unlocked, it shorted the lock line to ground, and promptly locked the damn thing again.

Replacing the drivers door acutator appears to have solved my problem.

To check the operation, connect a red led in series with a 330 ohm resistor (or up to about 1.8kohm, but use a 330 if you want to see them in daylight!) anode to the +12V wire, and cathode (side with the flat bit on the LED body) to the 'lock' line. Add a green LED and resistor between +12V and the 'unlock' line.

Watch what happens when you press the door switch. When lock is finished, red light should stay on, when unlock finished, green light should stay on.

Seems in all my stuffing around with it, I've made a dodgy connection on my 'lock' wire to the drivers door. Sometimes the drivers door will not lock. It could well have been my problem all along. Might need to replace a certain wire....

I'll keep you all posted.

Dang.

If this seems to be a common problem, I might be able to put my thoughts in a document for the Fordmods collection.

A moderator can PM me if they think this is a good idea.

Cheers,
Dang.

<<< Multiple expletives deleted >>>

It doesn't appear to have solved my problem after all. Still hunting. I may have to swallow my pride and visit an auto electrician.....

NOOOOOOO!!!!!!


Dang.

(watch this space.....)

Do the indicators flash twice on lock as well?

Damn, almost had a solution!

Yes, the indicators still flash properly.

<<< More multiple expletives deleted >>>

Thought I was on to something last night. I'm thinking that it seems to work quite well with any three actuators, but with all four connected it is intermittent.

I went back to my original theory, seems that something about all four causes the BEM to pull the lock line to ground again. Too much current perhaps? I tried lowering the battery voltage by turning on the ignition and headlights. Couldn't get it to play up. So I tried replacing the cent. lock fuse with an IN4007 diode, about 0.7V drop. Worked last night, but not today.....

I'll keep you all posted.

Cheers,
Dang.

lowering the voltage will increase the current, maybe it starts to happen when your car battery is getting low, a car battery is around 14.4 v new and as they get old it drops (durrr)) say around 12 causing an increase in current when something is used.


just another spanner in the works to think about.

What does smartlock do??

It just seems to flash on my dash borad constantly, whats its MAIN purpose?

ThinkTank - smartlock is an immobiliser. Check out the documents section.

Sorry Sickd - lower voltage across a resistive load means lower current. Ohms law is V=IR or in this case, I=V/R. Despite a motor windings inductance, at DC a motor can be approximated by a resistive load.

Tried cleaning up the battery terminals - that didn't work either.

Closer inspection sounds like something sticking in the rear drivers side door.

I'll put the trim back on the drivers door and assume that is not the problem for now.

I'll pull the rear door apart (again) on Saturday.

Dang.