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| dang |
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Can anyone please help me. (almost) every time I go to unlock the doors, they immediately lock again. It started intermittently, but now is very consistent. There doesn't appear to be any unusual codes on the smartlock jewel on the dash.
I'm suspecting the BCM. Looking at the wiring diagram, I can't see any other inputs to the BCM that would control the door other than the door lock switch and the smartlock key fob. Any other suggestions? Cheers, Dang. |
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| Punnisher_42 |
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Sounds like a door is not latching properly or a lock mechanism sticking. just my first instinct.
_________________ Regards, |
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| One Drone |
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It's Has nothing to do with smartlock which is an immobiliser. The central locking is screwing up which is not uncommon, sounds like an actuator on its way out.. Just have to find out which one it is.
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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| XCH45R |
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mine does this when the door lock pins arnt in properly..
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| dang |
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Hmmm, I'll have to have a look at the latches then.
If I do need a new actuator, is there any difference between the doors? That is, do you get front and rear ones, or left and right ones, or front left, FR, RL and RR ones? Or are they all the same? Thanks all for your thoughts. Cheers, DG. |
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| XCH45R |
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worked it out yet cheif?
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| dang |
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Nope, still head scratching.
I tried opening doors one by one and 'latching' them with a screwdriver to the closed position, pushing the 'door open' switch in and operating the locks, hoping it would work OK when the d**k latch was 'under test'. No cigar. Still playing up after I tried this with all four doors. Bugger. Looks like I'm up for new actuators. Cheers, DG. |
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| XCH45R |
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try taking the both front door lock pins out and see if it does it..
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| One Drone |
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Ford charge something like $100 for each actuator and they are all different afaik which is why I suggest you find out which one is causing the problem. There are also different versions of actuator..
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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| dang |
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OK, pardon my ignorance, but exactly what are the door lock pins?
If you mean the traditional door lock buttons on the top of the door trim, EL only has one on drivers door. What does that tell me if it does or doesn't work after I've done that? Haven't got around to pulling the internal trims off yet. Glad to see they have got away from those infernal plastic pins to hold the trim on. Cheers, Dang. |
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| Punnisher_42 |
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I don't know if this will help, but if the lock is adjar on my car, then the mechanism makes a clunking noise. all other doors go down and then come back up.
don't know if this will help.
_________________ Regards, |
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| joolz |
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If the door lock button is down too far it will do the same thing(not letting the lock home all the way) get a small flat head drver and lever the button out from the window side (window down) push door lock down with door closed (no button on yet), then with a pair of pointy pliers pull out the plastic insert on the button but dont pull it off!! simply push the button onto the lock until it bottoms out. with the door locked the button should sit flush.
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| mongrelEB |
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Easy way - Unplug each door loom one at a time until the problem stops.
_________________ 1xEB with full EF Ghia interior and AU motor
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| dang |
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Yes, I thought of doing that, but I wasn't sure whether a 'missing' actuator would upset the system or not.
Still haven't had a good chance to have a look at the beast. It's primarily my wifes car, and I haven't seen much of it lately! (I have to be content with driving the ol' XY. A tough job, but someone's gotta do it!  )
Cheers, Dang. |
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| dang |
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Had a chance to pull the beast apart last night.
Started with #1 sons door (5 years old, that doors probably taken the most abuse.) Disconnected the actuator, hey presto, all working cool. But the actuator seems to work fine in both directions... Reading les manual, I noted that the 'stall test' was to check that the actuator was not drawing more than the 6 amp limit. Hmmm, I wonder if removing the one actuator reduced the total current draw to less than the total limit? Like I said, it is intermittent and seems to be heat related. Hotter it is, more likely to play up. Perhaps the BEM monitors the total current draw when it grounds the UNLOCK line, freaks out if it is above the limit, and locks the doors again. I've got a theory that the current sense resistor increases in value when it gets hotter, and that it is just on the limit. I'm getting my new Blue BEM from red_rocket this week  , perhaps that will solve my problems? If I can find a 30A ammeter, I will try measuring the current across the door lock fuse.
I will test my BEM theory before I start spending $$$ on replacing actuators. Thoughts, comments, suggestions? DG. |
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