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installing fairmont dash into EF futura 

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 12:42 am 
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yep - i'm yet to change mine lol :P

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 12:54 am 
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Excellent Smithers....I mean Fraser.
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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 1:50 am 
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ask ugly igly(sp?) :P his the one that wired up frasers :P
neways,
i THINK that u have to remove something from the cluster to stop the self leveling suspension light from going physco...
U need to add 4 or 5 sensors for the doors, i think that there is something to do with resistors...u can probly check in the doco...if u dont wanna wire these up, you can just ad a resistor onto it...again check the doco ;) umm i think that the plugs are different on it...so more rewireing ;) have fun...
i dunno if it was on here...but matti has also done this...he wrote up a whole lot of info on it..but i think that was on FM1 ;)

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 10:58 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
OK, got my cluster today to realise that it was a fairlane one. Is it possibly to still use this in the EF? I think I might have to upgrade my BEM to a high series to enable it to do all that fancy s**t.. I dunno? HELP! lol
There is an NL Fairlane up the back of the yard at Yallah wreckers - go and rob the door locks for the door indicators on the cluster - the fuel door sensor is still there also, the green BEM was in the car for a while, don't know if it's still there. I'm calling in there tomorrow morning, if you like we can meet up and I'll give you a hand.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 2:55 pm 
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ooo that'd be the goods, but its already tommorow now! lol spewing.. :(
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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 3:04 pm 
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Nah, tomorrow (Friday) . . . . . . 8-)

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 5:00 pm 
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If you are going to use the high series cluster then it won't just plug all in straight away, you have to change the LHS plug as the Low & Mid series clusters have different pin plugs for the LHS. This is listed in the Technical Doco section.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 12:33 am 
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yeah high series clusters use the 16-12pin connector and low series use the 20pin im pretty sure..

snap0964, don't think ill be doing the swapover this week, for some reason strange companys sent me alot of letters this week saying I owe them money :( lol
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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 12:37 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
need a 1" deep socket to get to it though :?


If I dont put the sender in yet, then the oil pressure gauage will stay at 0 but everything else will function correctly, yes?


It'll actually sit high.

And yeah, it's a b**ch to get to to change. Get a oil sender socket from AutoPro (only place I found which knew what I was talking about).

Also, dunno if it's the same for the high series cluster, but a low to mid upgrade (gli/future to fairmont) requires a resistor added to the cluster to enable the LCD lighting when the headlights are on.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 12:57 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
need a 1" deep socket to get to it though :?


If I dont put the sender in yet, then the oil pressure gauage will stay at 0 but everything else will function correctly, yes?


It'll actually sit high.

And yeah, it's a b**ch to get to to change. Get a oil sender socket from AutoPro (only place I found which knew what I was talking about).

Also, dunno if it's the same for the high series cluster, but a low to mid upgrade (gli/future to fairmont) requires a resistor added to the cluster to enable the LCD lighting when the headlights are on.
Yeah found that how the hard way, turned headlights on and I lost my LCD screens. Job tor Friday morning.
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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 1:08 am 
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ok here goes...

The exact socket size for the oil pressure sender and sensor (the one you eill have to remove) is 1'-1/16th, easily purchased from conventrys (if over east) or any farm supply shop. <- Fras I got my here so we can sort out your sender soon.

In regards to the NF/NL cluster.

As previously mentioned the plugs on the righthand side of the cluster (left when it is in place facing the driver) need to be swapped. They are all in the same positions for the 12 plug coming off of the 20 plug. I suggest swap one wire at a time as to not screw it up. The smaller eight plug will be used only for the door circuts (see below) and I think the suspension. I have the Ford wiring diagrams around somewhere I will try and confirm this.

Your odometre reading (as well as you service warning etc etc) is stored in the EEPROM. This is a stupid tiny little chip on th back of the cluster. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE IT unless you are really confindent with you ability to. The legs are really delicate and if they snap you are f**k. I did this on my after a couple of trials on spare clusters and managed to complete it using a needle and alot of patience.

The oil pressure sender, the low coolant sensor, the low washer fluid sensor will all need to be installed, being a futura though you may have some of these already, I am working of a GLi in my head here. Also working from a GLi a resistor will need to be installed to bridge the circut to allow the dimming function on the low series BCM to operate correctly. unlike the mid series there in no set place for this. I spend about 30hour working out the correct placement, if Fraser lets me pull apart his dash I will take some pics. The issue with this though is it will throw out a trip computer dimming function if installed. This however only seems to affect the EF trip and not the EL. The choices here are to solder another resistor inside the Trip or install a EL trip circut into an EF trip comp shell<--easier!

The fun install is the door ajar sensors. These are a must. In the middle LCD screen there is a car with four doors, a fuel cap and a boot lid that will flap like wings if not wired correctly. You will need to make up small circuts, running in series to a switch but parallel to the earth. I can send you some more info on this if you like.

Image

This will switch constantly until the correct voltage is obtained. It looks like you car is about to take off.

As you cn probably see there is another plug on the bavk of the cluster. This is not essential. It is a reverse circut( correct me if I am wrong) which senses blown bulbs and informs you on the dash. I have tried it yet as well I still havent sorted out the fuel cap sensor yet. I am kinda nervous wiring so close to a combustable.


Well I think that is it.....

Anyway hope this helps ya.

PS if you have a electronics geek of a mate get there help with the wiring and soldering as then you have someelse to blame.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 1:12 am 
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i changed my cluster from falcon to fairmont type didnt add the sensor... it sits at max (7) but the other day oil was low and it went haywire whats up with that?
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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 1:31 am 
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The cluster is expecting a oil sender signal (variable resistance), but instead is getting a on/off signal from the oil switch.

Go spend the $54 to get the sender and swap it. It's a PITA, but not difficult mentally or physically.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 1:38 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
need a 1" deep socket to get to it though :?


If I dont put the sender in yet, then the oil pressure gauage will stay at 0 but everything else will function correctly, yes?


It'll actually sit high.

And yeah, it's a b**ch to get to to change. Get a oil sender socket from AutoPro (only place I found which knew what I was talking about).

Also, dunno if it's the same for the high series cluster, but a low to mid upgrade (gli/future to fairmont) requires a resistor added to the cluster to enable the LCD lighting when the headlights are on.
Yeah found that how the hard way, turned headlights on and I lost my LCD screens. Job tor Friday morning.


Mid series before:
{DESCRIPTION}

Low series before:
{DESCRIPTION}

Just add the resistor to the R63 position, and you're good to go.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 3:32 am 
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Yeah taking it to auto electrician tomorrow morning. Or DSE if they do it. Gotta swap over the EEPROM.
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